bladesandbaits

Nice try???? LOL ???? Fooling anyone???? I'm serious. He may sell you a few. I probably have 25 or so I would sell you.

Contact Joey at Blademaster Lures. He owns Suddeth and still makes the "Little Earl" Crankbait (which that is what your bait is isn't it?) He may sell you a few. I reworked his masters and molds not long ago and was at his shop the other day he has a load of Little Earl Lips. Regards, John Prior

Did you make that bait?

I have a Bagley Bango Lure that is a simple Pearl Belly and Lavender Back. It is a fish catching sumbuck! It looks like "Hammered Dog Sh?t" I have glued and repaired it several times and it just keeps catching em. Once I had a 20 pound strper eat it and I chased that fish all over the lake to get my lure back when normally I would have just tightened down the drag and broke him off. I can do an exact match on about any bait made and have painted several old Bango Lures to match this one and the old one still catches twice the fish. I have had customers send me lures for custom painting and I would usually call the customer once I received them to "re-cap" what we were going to do to them. Several times I would have a customer say to me for instance...... " that Pop R you have there that is so chewed up is one of the fish catching-est baits I have ever tied on". I would reply " well why in the world do you want to paint it then"? "lets just do the minor repair it need and keep on fishing it"! They would reply....... " thats a good idea"! Sooooo ...... Survey says.......... if its chewed up and battlescared and still catching fish, and still serviceable and not taking on water, FISH IT! Regards, Blades

Why not try Bondo? I make all of my prototypes from Bondo which eventually wind up as a master then sent to Cast Industries for mastering baits for a vulcanized mold. I average getting several thousand spin cast baits from one mold. And Cast can spin me up a couple thousand pretty quick. Regards, Blades

The thicker material does work well. You have to wind the bait very slow or the bait foils. Guess it might work on a heavy head (3/4 oz) but not with a 1/2 oz. These fish on the Blue Back lakes wont eat it moving slow. Thanks for all the input. Regards, Blades

This is a little bit off subject but remember those titanium oval split rings some years back? I saw a guy demo them ... he had a nozzle spraying liquid nitrogen on split ring and he could straighten it out while it was cold. Then as it warmed up the straightened out split ring would go back to its original form. Kind of gimmicki (sp)but pretty cool.

Sweet!

I'm going to try the curtain material.I'll give some feedback as soon I have some. Thanks again! Regards, Blades

Yes sir, the lip. Basseducer. The first thing that came to mind was the curtain material.Its actually PVC material.The curtain material typical of walk in coolers/warehouse doors is to thick .080 is the minimum thickness I can find and the Lip/Hoodie is .060. I believe the srounger material is vinyl not PVC. Thanks guys. Blades

Any idea what the material for the little "hoodie/bib" is made of ? I have a bunch of the lures that the "hoodie/bib" is old ,cracking and worn out. I have caught a ton of fish on them. I would like to try and make a few replacement "hoodies/bibs" instead of buying more lures. Thanks in advance. Regards, Blades

Hi all. I need some help with the graphics design for a new blister card that I'm going to market with soon. Anyone here do this or know anyone you would reccomend? Thanks in advance. Regards, Blades

Hi all. I need some help withvtge graphics design for a new blister card that I'm going to market with soon. Anyone here do this or know anyone you would reccomend? Thanks in advance. Regards, Blades

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bad/bad50-0052.htm http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bad/bad51017.htm Jar and adaptor. Hate to keep telling you to spend more money but here are the type jars you need. Now.... if you are shooting through a gravity feed gun then you just need the jar(lid included) You can just drop the bb's in the Alcladd jar as its heavy duty enough.Browse around on the Hobbylinc site. The glass jars they sell are all good for mixing with BB's as I have used hundreds of them and never had one break. The plastic jars are good for solvent based paints as well. Regards, Blades

Eric. It can be messy but if your careful you wont make a mess. If you can get your hands on some poly flo tubing or latex ( surgical) tubing in about 1/4 inch inside diameter, you simple stick one end up to the spray can nozzle and stick the other end into the bottle. press the paint can button and away you go. Just keep the tube preesed up against the nozzel tight and remember that you are in control of the flow. If you start making a mess then just stop spraying. Many times I have found a better deal on spaztix in the rattle can and have transferred it from the can to bottle many times. Note for both the above... let the rattle can paint you have transfered to the bottle rest for a couple minutes to let the propellent gasses evaporate. Otherwise when you add thinner and shake ot up to mix,thats when you may have a mess! As for thinning the Krylon... Just go to Lowes or home depot and get a small can of laquer thinner. Cut the paint about 50/50...throw a few BB's in the bottle to help mix it when you shake it up.Laquer scares the hell out of alot of people but dont let it bother you. Just make sure you wear some latex gloves and be in a well ventllated (sp) area( Im assuming that regardless of the kind of paint you are using, you are spraying it around good vetilation. Back to Alcladd and Spaztix. I realize you could be on a tight budget but I prmise you that you will not regret using these chromes. They last a really long time and cover very well. Just store them in a cool place,add a few BB's to the bottle, and shake them up occasionally when not it use. Theres no thinning either. I believe someone mentioned chrome paint dulling after application.If you get to heacy with the above mentioned chromes then they will appear to dull. When you apply the chromes mentioned above.... when you think you need to apply more, you probably have enough but it wont show up really brilliant until you clear coat. It takes a little practice so maybe take a few short pieces of white PVC pipe and paint a "mock" patter or basecoat on them like your painting a bait, then try the chromes above and apply a small amount of clear to see the results. If its a total "wreck" then just wipe off the paint with laquer thinner and start over. Sorry for the short Essay.Im sure it has many mispellings Good luck! Regards, Blades

Ditto !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alclad II. You dont have to thin it but need to clean your airbrush with Laquer thinner or denatured alcohol. http://www.megahobby.com/alcladiilacquersforairbrushingonly.aspx Spaxtix. Same as above. http://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/spazpaintmirror-chrome-s/1700.htm With these two products forget the black base they are both awesome! But remember... less is more and I gaurantee you if you keep the scale nettting tight,it wont blead under the net. As for Krylon... You have to thin it with Laquer thinner. I dont mean to hurt your feelings but you will never get anywhere near the results from Krylon that you will get from the two mentioned above. Also... the brands mentioned above will last you a long time if you store them propely. Regards, Blades

Don't know about you guys but its a "wash" for me. I get a 10% brake on components. Either way there gonna get the 10% from you or the components supplier.

Thanks J ! Regards, Blades