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bladesandbaits

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Everything posted by bladesandbaits

  1. Anybody know the size of spro's power swivel that is equal to a size 12 crane ? Thanks in advance. Regards, Blades
  2. I meant UV Cured clear.Sorry, I should have clarified better. Regards, Blades
  3. These are all really nice !
  4. Can it be found in Matt Finish? Is there an additive to make it Matt finish? Regards, Blades
  5. Hard to beat a Badger 150 double action siphon feed.If you buy the kit it will come with 1 each Fine/Medium/Large Tip and Needles. I have a couple of $300.00 Iwata brushes and 3 BAdger 150's. I tend to use the Badgers more than the Iwata. For the price,especially with the Micheals coupon they are hard to beat. Regards, Blades
  6. LOL Kat. Remind me to tell you about the close call I had in the Czech Republic !!!
  7. Ok .. Im back from Europe and finished chasing Turkeys and heres what I have done so far. Ben.. Instead of dipping I brushed on the clear coat. I used PPG 2021 with med. Hardner. I mixed up 2 ounces and coated 100 spinnerbaits. I mixed the clear in a 2 ounce Badger Jar and figure the small opening at the top would slow down the clear in the Jar from getting thick. I slathered it on pretty thick and clipped each individual bait on the drying wheel. It took about 45 minutes to do 100 bodies and I had enough clear left over to coat probably another 25 baits. This is the way I will do it from now on. Why??? becuase if I were spraying them, it would have taken much more clear and I would have had to handle them all twice. brushing the clear on cut the time in half as well as the waist. I fished one of them in a tournamnet last week and between practice and the tournamnet, I bet i made 500 cast and 90% of that was very heavy cover. I cant believe it but the clearcoat held up twice as good as when it is sprayed on. Thanks again guys for the help and input to get my thought process going. Regards, Blades
  8. Ben. Gonna try my clear ( i'm an idiot, never thought about it) as well as the clear that Mark gave information on. Im really going to put an effort in to trying to streamline this process. I wont be able to try anything new until sometime in early April. I have to go back to europe for three weeks and will return a week before turkey season opens ...... lol Turkeys take a front seat for at least a week! Thanks guys for the great discussion... your'e the best! Regards, Blades
  9. Thanks Rodney and SJ. For the record heres what I do. Base coat with white/pearl mixture and bake. All detail is Laquer over cured powder then eyes. The Laquer bonds very well over the cured powder. Regards, Blades.
  10. Mark. After reading about SC9300 I think I'm going to try a quart. I dont believe I will have a problem with Cracking or Dulling because all my painting is 100% Laquer. Waterborn clear shouldnt react to the paint I use but may not bond as well. regardless I will give it a shot and see. It will be three weeks before I can test it but will report back how it turned out. I assuming turning the baits will still be neccesary? Lastly... Even though these baits are being sold ,they are 100% custom and I want scrimp on the quality. Its the attitude of a hobyist and thinking out of the box that made them what they are. Im not looking to cut any corners. I'm just constantly looking for a way to improve the process. Sometimes you hit the cieling on the process. I think if I can get a little more efficient on clear coating,then I would be there. Components prices are getting higher everyday so times is money. Its definantly a double edged sword. Thanks Mark ..... Cad...... for the quick response. Regards, Blades
  11. Thanks Mark. I looking at this right now. Regards, Blades
  12. You Don't sound like a Jerk at all Cad... I know it was kind of a redundant post but I thought I would throw it out there and see. Of the three.. there's no doubt that 30 minute is the toughest regarding cure time to blading,skirting and package. DN comes in almost a tie as far a durability but the cure times is killing me. Pot life is longer for working time. The clear I use on cranks comes in next but its a 2 coat process I get the most complaints from Etex.I guess what i will do is get way ahead of production and use DN. There was a post somewhere the other day about UV clear. I did a little testing a couple of years ago and found that it was very promising but I just didnt take it any further. The cure in the UV is almost instant but you just about have to handle each bait one at a time unless you build a giant curing box but the draw back there is by the time you hang enough baits in bulk to cure a bunch .. the clear would have ran and sagged and as soon as the light hit it --- the baits would cure with the runs and sags. Regards, Blades
  13. Spinnerbaits! Im happy with what I am using but I have to ramp up production quite a bit. Not knocking Dick Nites but the cure time is just way too long. 30 minute Devcon is too much hassle trying to clear a 100 heads at a time The clear I spray for crankbaits works great but its a pain in the ass to spray all the baits Im producing. Is there anything i can dip that will not peel off ? I have a turning wheel that will hold a but load of heads. I'll go ahead and add that Etex wont make the cut. I'm guessing my options are pretty thin huh? Any input is appreciated. Regards, Blades
  14. Back in the day.. I wittnessed Bagley and Thurdershad dip there baits in white Laquer as the first step. I would bet that Sisson does it as well. Im sure its still a common process. Regards, Blades
  15. bladesandbaits

    Purple Back

    I dont think its gonna work Gene !! Send it on down here to me ... I'll test it and tell you what think ! Great pattern seriously .. it'l work no doubt. Blades
  16. You can lay the lines out with narrow pin striping tape going from the belly across the back and to the belly on the other side ... or cut a piece of paper in a scallop shape that goes across the bait - belly across the back and belly .Then mark the lines.. Then cut the grooves with a dremmel and whittle the cut back out with a good sharp knife and smoothe with a sanding sponge. But at 14 dollors buy it now... this guy must have figured out a much easier and efficient way to do them. Heck, I charge 14 dollors to paint one. Regards, Blades
  17. Do exactly what Overspray said --- No Kidding !!!!!!!!!!!! Im taking my own risk.. doesnt mean you guys should. Ive also huffed enough laquer over the years that i dont have many brain cells left ! It shows up in my spelling quite often. Blades
  18. Mike . No I dont disassemble them. I am Poland on business and can get you a picture this weekend but I will try and explain it now. And I might add it works really well. I take a heavy duty coat hanger and spread it out like a diamond. I get small 1/4 inch diameter by 1 inch long springs ( the ones from a hardware store) and attached to the apex of the diamond shape coat hanger (one spring at the hanger end and one spring at the opposite apex)----- then I bend the last coil of each spring out to form a hook---- then hang (attach) the nose and tail of the bait to the springs. Hold the hanger and paint or clear away !!!!!! Use the hanger to hang the bait between coats . Regards, Blades.
  19. California Craw DD-14

    © aceintheholecustomelures.com

  20. California Craw DD-14

    © aceintheholecustomlures.com

  21. Custom Color 0-II

    © aceintheholecustomlures.com

  22. Custom Color O-II Had a memeber ask me to post some stuff. Cant access photobucket right now so these are a little old.

    © www.aceintheholecustomlures

  23. Your welcome Ben...Sorry for all the mispelling and run on sentences .. I was in the Munic airport and it was 4 am... I was running on fumes.. I also have no idea why my reply was double posted. Regards, Blades
  24. Bixie. Im sure Dick Nites is a great product but I have never used it. I think my buddy Dean McClean uses it. I have several baits from Dean that I deeply treasure and let me tell you the finish is Rock Hard and fabulous. Im sorry but I cant give you much feedback on dipping whether its dick nites or any other brand. I have just never done it. About the only advantage I could give comparing dipping to spraying is that you could control the "build" of the clearcoat when spraying. In regards to the process I mentioned above.. I was giving general steps ---- as I do modify the process depending on the baits. For instance... I will never ever put 3 coats of Urethane on a Lucky Craft Staysee or Pointer or Slender Pointer. On these type baits I do one coat with med hardener then the second (which is the last coat) with slow hardener. If I put three coats I ruin the action. On the other hand... Three coats has no affect on a Sebile Magic Swimmer or a Norman Deep Little N. It even helps a Smithwick Floating Rogue because in my aopinion these baits rise way to fast and the extra weight slows the ascend quite a bit. As far as hassle free... without coming across as arrogant or a smart As?....... Quite frankly its all a hassle. I would have to say that dipping sounds like the least hassle of all but I dont believe any process is the "end all - be all" Regards, Blades
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