woodieb8

re seal yourself or return them. are they Chinese .

dollar store laundry bags and mesh carry bags, or large buy eavestrough gutter guard. all under 2 bucks.

heres a tip. find a furnace squirrel cage with a motor. box it and run thru the window or cut between studs and exit outside. old furnace squirrel cage blowers will move hundreds of cubic air a minute. ,but if your heating the heat goes with it.

the absolute best is 4to1 automotive urethane,clear coat. it can be dipped if your worried about airborne . its also uv protected.

years back when we manufactured walley/salmon spoons,we did lotsa white backs. plated/chrome only shows as light penetrates water depths. . oranges go brown and chartreuse goes white. in shallow lakes like l.st clair any belly patterns show as deepest point is 21ft. on upper bodies contrast is a major key.. in gin clear waters naturals are good. in off waters such as algae bloom/pea green frog patterns pop. fish don't see the body color but the bright dots show greatly. on alpha predaters its reaction hit or gone. trolling baits at 4 mph baits move feet per second..these are our observations in building and fishing the great lakes.

first off are you sealing the lure body. . if so lacquer primer standard in white works on dip. thinning as nexessary.... rotation is minimal as lacquer primer dries fast.

color is huge here on l.st clair. after the wobble color dictaes how many and how big.

yes Mark happens here with larger plastic injected musky lures constantly. . plastic has changed in molding the last 20 years. baits get pregnant in tackleboxes.

heres food for thought. years back plastic cranks never had these issues. manufacturing now has changed. thinner wall and the use of recycled plastics. this saves man. cost but user end results appear. old wiggle warts,,smithwick, pradco. luhr Jensen etc never had this issue... this has become a very common problem across the world in manufacturing. many companies now have disclaimers on the effects of heat/sun.

theres production process,but its not cost effective at hobby level.

screws are good, one issue on large predators is the net thrashing. torque can loosen screws over time. . we have built screw baits for years. . nowadays folks want wire thru musky/pike lures. . lures being trolled up to 5mph for miles take a reel beating.. ad screw lures that have caught 50 musky before retires. was not a screw issue.was general fatigue and missing wood lol.. just pilot drill your screw holes,and epoxy them in . just my thoughts guys.

hi. did you put ball bearings in your spray bottle. shake repeatedly to keep particles suspedned. .we use nu 5 tip paasche. you can take an old tip sand the end cap a touch. .that creates more flow.. shimmer coats are normally pearls and translucents.. also what clear coat are you using as a carrier when sprayed.

I am fooled ,don't understand breaking down 8.2.2 grams. transtar here in Canada is 36.00 a litre with the hardners.. as for using gltters that's an easy fix. mix clear add the micro glitter and a couple ball bearings in cup/bottle. shoot clear after agitating clear to suspendglitters. shoots easy. once again we use the largest tip in paasche h brush .nu 5 tip.at 40-50lbs.. flash coat and then finish coats.

transtar clears work well over any paints,. we shoot transtar clear over all. heres a quick tip. after mixing the 4to1 mix we shoot thru the largest tip. nu 5 on our paasche h brushes without thinning.... a fast flash coat over 12 baits. then a finish coat starting over on the first till all are done. dry time to handle above 70 degree,s is normally 1to 2 hours. pull tape before everythings rockhar.d.

hi. on wooden lures we use etex sealcoat,scuff. primers can be white lacquer primer,or zinnser,or rustoleum. .. we spray our primers.. on plastics ,solvent based primers over exsisting factory paints. never an issue. if its an older experienced lure that's rough we will give a light sand then start the process.

my lab just comes in to supervise. he is not allowed in the spray booth though..he owns the remainder of the shop though.

hi what you explain is an automotive pre-mixed clear cost. youshould not have an issue. try a fast flash coat. let dry then shoot your clear coat. we use auto clears on thousands of plastic cranks yearly., durability is excellent,as its a plastic substrate all should be well over cured waterbased paints.. one key factors the flashcoat to lok the color without making it run . aersols have thinners mixed in,the can.

hi you would probably be better off to shop and purchase old stock. if you want to build be prepared for hours/weeks of hiccups lol.. even molding a body will enhance dimensions. can it be done ,you betcha..read every related article here..theres many builders here that create. and yes they think outside of the box.. that's how the world moves ahead.

whats the lure made of ,wood,plastic,foams?

some guys are using basic hardware screw eyes. there galvanized. try a marine supplier for stainless.

a guy spends his hard earned cash. hopefully he has a great experience here. musky guys just want a big tug,a picture and let them go... I tell the young folks . go enjoy the lakes,its the last place you can go,enjoy.its free.,except the thousands ya spent on gear..trying to pass things on ensures a future for others..

tell your friend to fish the south shore,canadien side. ruscom river to stony point 15-17ft. find the bait the toothy critter are there.

yes dale I'm sorta crazy .lol.

pretty darn slik idea.

hi. we never have retired airbrush. we just rebuild them. we wash tips and parts in lacquer thinner. I soak tips in a small bottle of thinners. tips will wear. if your shooting mettalics,such as fine sparkle,its abrasive,that will wear openings... when spraying and change of color we keep a small bottle with thinner that we spray thru till clear then shoot the next color...I do know this heat/humidity is playing havoc this summer.. if theres anything I can apply to help folks out feel free/ theres many very qualifies artisans on this site. that's why its sooo cool.