woodieb8

we used kwikfish/flatfish here for decades but for walleyes. max speeds were 1.5mph then they twist blo-out. . they were built 1 mile from my shop. ,icon lures no doubt, on the great lakes here millions of fish have been caught,just not up to speeds . . muskies some days love speed for reaction strikes.. the slowest we troll is 2.5mph.

abachewood is excellent for musky lures. n.a. its an exotic wood. . the heavier the wood the slower the movement in water unless you up size the diving lip.. nessmuk sounds like the toys for building are at your hands sounds fun. .the flatfish/kwikfish style wont work for mr toothy. they cannot accept higher speeds.

vodkaman nice photo shot.. dalesw sucker styles work. especially on fall bite here. guys are casting more here on lsc. my bait styles are lathed and molded. the 25cm is molded after the nilsmaster model. with round lip its a wobbler. the other model/lathed pounds hard with wander . that style is in 3 standard sizes 6..7..9 inch.. theres no magic lure. ,muskies will tell you what they want for dinner.

all excellent thought out points gentlemen..muskies have there own agenda..here on l. st clair you can go from hero to 0 in a day... bait size and color can vary hour to hour.i have had days where no ones catching. vhf radio crackles we got one 15 miles away . then everyones catching again. crazy humbling fish

dalesw. being on l.st cl. I build musky baits . if your targeting l. st clair. remember the baits should be medium depth runners . most build with 45 degree lip angle for cranks. average lure sizes are 5-7 summer months peaking out to 10 inch in late fall. lip shape will dictate wobble desired. if you want to pursue a lipless casting swimbait sebille has ann excellent model that's successful here. . as for colors naturals in clean waters and bright in off waters. .best forage base is perch,smallmouth bass in naturals. gizzard shad is only a fall color due to migration. hope you have success hunting mr toothy. you will get the bug after hooking into a few slobs.

16lb foam is cured within 2 hours. we wire thru every bait. wires inserted into mold,poured around. mico-balloons will weaken foam castings. we tried 26lb foam with bad results.. foams can have a learning curve.

we use 16lb foam. for swimbaits you would need to weight them . 16lb has density of maple ,floatation of cedars.

what happens with our toothy critters is normally in the net. the torque created creates havoc. pine and screws don't play well. if a screw loosens it doent re-tighten well. ,and hold. for fish without teeth in warmer climates I would not hesitate. just muskies are extreme gators . can. record 65lbs.

I'm on l.st cl. pine wont hold up to muskys.. sands nice turns nice but just does not have the qualitys for big toothy fish and hold up.

hagend bender. the 0.51 attach can be altered to accept 0.62..

the million dollar question. I build wood and urethane foam lures everything said has truth. . customs/homemade we get to tweek mother nature in wood. it,s been said densitys ,that's a great anology . different woods for different apps. . the closesest to wood we have found is urethane foams to achieve the styles and denistys becomes a science project.. after all the years building I still love wood. its magic to me.

I'm confused. is it a pre-mixed spray bomb or a 4to1 mix urethane. if its auto-motive 4to 1 pot life for spay is approx. 3 hours depending om temps.. one thing automotive clears don't yellow and are uv clear. as said though . respiaters and blower is needed.

we use urethanes everyday. great topcoats on plastics. use a respirator and blowers system.

get well don't rush yourself. only the best from your northern neighbors in canada

we have used the 16lb and 26lb foams. .. in a well vented mold the hardness is as stated. back pressure on vents will create even harder cast,s

hair piks work, spatula with slots. I think I have adventure everything from the kitchen to bathroom.

the major perceived issue is lip torque. the lip would have to be pinned/screwed for anchor. the 0.92 screws will hold,yes its been done before lol.. you could also . drill the lexan 1/16 bit use s/steel wire to the first hook hanga. pocket drill with a forstner bit . push wire thru lip into pocket. needle nose in the pocket a bend. pour lead into the hole. it will never move along with 2 s/s pins in the underside of the lip.

1/8th drill bit. as long as the threads are into the lexan theresNO way they will ever ever pull out.. the screws will bend or break first.

automotive clear blowers system priceless.

ironic the factory was nearby my home

spray on sir. I have had custom colors copied. its a reality in business. after over 30 years I have seen some pretty downright cutthroat actions. hold yer head hi. the more popular/succsessfull you become the more bullets you dodge. its business.

the wire thru method makes a constant bait build. screws are good but with cost and durability we use s/s wire on all lures.. on urethane foam yes it does give added strength.

yes we use s/s wire 0.51 thru wire on all molded lures. I sent smooth-on a question on shore density,awaiting a reply.

we are looking for a little more density but still achieve a moderate flotation,with hardware on the bait. with my new mold design the tail half is less in diameter. that's why we have asked. along with density,,strength and wired thru. although its only a 7 inch lure for predators we need maximum strength.thats what led me to 26lb foam instead of 16lb densitys.. on our 10 inch bait 16lb has done very well in test,,catching and durability.

hi guys. I have been molding 16lb foam,good results. my question. has anyone used 26lb urethane foam molding baits?