woodieb8

hi were using 1/8 lexan on cranks for musky. 3/16 for deeper divers/larger baits. problems with acrylic is brittle. whever theres musky theres vast temperature changes.i have sheets of 3/16th and would wish it was 1/8th.

I have wired 5 inch shads in azek. no issues at all.. we drilled them.

lacquer base is solvent based. zinnser products are alchol or water based or shellac based. all the mentioned will work well,if you pre-sealed with epoxies like enviro-tex or new lustre 55 . . zinnser products alone without pre0seal epoxys will chek/crack on woods,especially cedars and softwoods. in climates with larege temperature changes even more so. we build musky lures here and do re-paints for clients and do production painting for other companies. with woods metals plastics foams theres differences in evey one for best results. seeing your building gliders I surmise your making musky lures?

did that with Colorado blades decades ago. it did work.

you will have no problem dipping. rotate the bait or put it on a wheel/turner. dry time will be longer due to more primer on it. or try lacquer primer. dry times quicker. it bites into your epoxy coat for adhesion. we do this on cedar crank bodies

exactly mark. same issue in Canada. while small manufacturing co. struggle on.

my week conists of building baits. on the weekends we build more baits lol.

heres how I crackle musky lures. primer..base coat enamel/lacquer. sponge crackle paste onlures. let lure sit 40 minutes/tacky touch. sponge acrylic final color on lure. let set to dry... crackle mediums are now water based.. the reasoning of sponge crackles and final color is to give deeper defined crackle.

I do believe it was hazmail. he knows his stuff.

I do it commercially. I wont steal . copying from another cheapens your product. because someones already done it. the worst is tv adsto get your patents.trademarks. there u pay they steal lol

hi read everything you can. the wealth of good stuff guys have put into this site is incredible. its the nasa of baitmaking.

etex hates sharp edges and corners also guys..

crab05. this depends upon what the baits made of. wood.plastic..metal ?

forstner works good preset your drill press if your using one

we do the same as bob p.. on straight baits and joints on swim baits with tite tolerances we use different clears.

also remember sand/scuff the lip part that inserts to the body. epoxy stiks better. use lexan not plastic for lip.

we dip sealer then after prep dip wooden bodies into white lacquer prime. you will need to wait for drying time. with lacquers you can use any paints over them. this is not on all our apps.

cool. man that was 4 decadesago for me. the prom. whats her answer

yep Honduras is protected now in s. America.

use the best you can get. many folks don't realize. the temperature fluctuations on musky lures due to geographic areas plays a part. in the northern half of n.a. temps go from 32-82 fareinheight. can create issues.. woods expand/contract.

mark were you a little froggy the next morning lol..great story

yep now your future will include paint on everything ya own plus fingers hands etc.

so cool. as for rats I just set a trap lol. that's an awesome build

when I finished the pvc I did its awesome. for production builds for me its not a way as time becomes a factor. . the only thing I have not been into is plastic injection. to us every lure style type and whether its wood or anything has its place. if we could build lures and reap the profits of shipping costs we woulda retired in a warm sunny place years ago...lol...

I enjoy all aspects. I build wood baits...pour foam baits and have used pvc. also I paint blades lead anything fishing related. the different strokes for different folks works for me. the site is a basic scientific lab of lure making... I luv it. guys from every corner of the earth sharing facts/tidbits