woodieb8

when I finished the pvc I did its awesome. for production builds for me its not a way as time becomes a factor. . the only thing I have not been into is plastic injection. to us every lure style type and whether its wood or anything has its place. if we could build lures and reap the profits of shipping costs we woulda retired in a warm sunny place years ago...lol...

I enjoy all aspects. I build wood baits...pour foam baits and have used pvc. also I paint blades lead anything fishing related. the different strokes for different folks works for me. the site is a basic scientific lab of lure making... I luv it. guys from every corner of the earth sharing facts/tidbits

we ran some. it got hot/rubbery . not worth it for us. . lathe turning at 2000rpm. it heats up . I like pvc in some ways ,not this app though.

tried pvc on lathe . forget it. we run 2 copier lathes here my old craftsman is hurtin. my craftsmen duplicater lathe is strong. if you need cutters there not cheep.. here in Canada 60.00 a piece.

I must say hazmail. that quite the creation. that takes brain cells congrats

I turn at 2000rpm. . bandsaws fine .as you stated a slight edge on cutting. . table saw we bet a burr,plus it gums up hundred dollar blades. we did some 5 inch wire thru with that d board. holds paint nicely floats great,a little denser then cedar. my problem is TIME. .this time of year its long days short nites .. I run from molds to paint to sanding foamies. I feel like a 1 year old jack russel.. the largest problem with pvc boards ..cost for production.. oh ya expert lmao. im still learnin between dementia

the pvc deckboard I have seems to melt turning. we use sandpaper on the lathe every day. start with 80 and work to 100. many woods if you get them too hot the grains raise.

great topic gents. woods like reef hawgs ,built are a sugar maple. examples of successful lure sometime are the woods itself. for the guys not familiar with toothy critters ...musky.. many lures are trolling lures. they are pulled up to 5mph average. the baits need overbuild in quality and paints.. I truly wish Honduras mahogany was reachable in pricing in Canada. its a great stable wood. durable carves easily and holds paints well..mark p. that deckboards great but we cant turn it on lathes grrrr

for many years we did customs for 3 companies. bombers hot lips warts etc. . those we used auto clears. on salmon spoons also auto clears. . done correct the shines good after 25 years. even spinnerblades . just paint fade on test subjects after 4 years in sunlight. for woods especially softwoods our test results were substrate shift and auto clears hazed cracked etc. .the fallacy of sealing wont help. water will ALWAYS find a way in. on woods. . gino on resins such as deckboards we had no issues on clears as its a polybase. or urethanes. presently were doing a run on a new product were introducing urethane molded .. test results are good but as you guys stated to get deep lustre automotive clears require multiple coats. not feasible in production building. so theres my whole take on how I do it guys. I hope I shed lite for someone.

seeking 56 that's definatly a not finished hardening,. the solvents didn't play nice. but on the bright side ive been there a few times lol. quite a few

we use automotive clears on some products. that meaning plastics,metals. auto clears don't play well with woods. slight expansions will crack or help peel factors. we use transtar clears and save lots over DuPont pricing.. we do recommend a fresh air supply.,respirator/blower system..

jed resin? some guys run them thru dishwasher first to get paint to hold better. we use lacquer based primers firs. did you 400 scuff the body?

hi there musta bin a wack of kickin stiks. we squirted a few doz. . normal paint jobs here are approx. 5 bucks.. were set up for production ,makes things easier when its a dedicated shop.

gino. balsa?.. try git rot or west systems to harden up your balsa,but then your changing cellulure stricter of the wood.

I never can see an issue of paint weight throwing a lure off balance.. if so in my 30 plus years painting the bait was mis built to begin with..

j-dee. you need to gas off the foam. we use foam here we found that out also. plus your primers are critical also.

made my own 20 years ago. have done hundreds of thousands of rings ..still good. by some needle nose. grind on end down,bend the other ,chamfer..good to go. had xurons. and others they died.

remember the 9-a bomber I know they troll to 32ft casting should get down. I know a guy that's got boxes new. there not built now

troll just kiddin guys

you can use floro enamel base. let it gasoff/dry and use acrylic enamel clear. make sure the paints fry. mattes are available in clears. our processyears back were floros,and automotive clear..... one thing there tuffer for teeth,in reality its all shiny in the water.

salty..mark correct im here in Canada. when our goverments allowed Asian marketplace free reign,north America,s on the slo-ride down. . in 10 more years this debate will be looong gone along with most n.american manufacturers..

clear acrylic or clear lacquer. depends upon paints you work with

percentage on markups vary widly. ..the old adage was 40 per-cent. many retailers now with the Asian invasion....garbage.... run with 100per-cent and more... the large retailers bass pro...cabela,s and such are exact copies of wal mart status. offshore crap... ..that makes lure man. in north America hard to compete in an offset arena.

painting on chrome blades needs a special process. createxor standard laxquers will not hold period. . . if your buying blades from a supplier buy white and paint over or be prepared for ventilation and a respirator. I do thousands weekly for manufactures.

start reading the site ..big z. and then start squirtin.