woodieb8

were talking wooden lures. guys that spend good money do want baits that will give them a service life. I agree rubber does not hold up to large teeth.. yes twisters designed for smaller fish can catch a musky/shark porpoise etc. ...we run into muskies over 50 inches and over 50lbs..

as mentioned. smaller wire will work. musky guys buying musky lures want and need durability. the majority of lure damage is in the net. fish have leverage in the net twisting/flopping. that's where things go wrong.

many guys go white with pearl white on top.,from what ive seen

no matter how you stamp theres an edge/burr. tighter tolerance less burr.. paul pek of metalworx in the Midwest stamps/sells lips.

we run mag warts. 110ft line out at 2.8mph .with 15lb test gives 21ft deth. there unique . theres many days they filled boxes on our charterboat.

they can be stamped,lexan that is . acrylics willshatter. I know a guy that had dies for 40 lip types and the press. for most hobbyist just buy them. or you can bandsaw them yourself.

stainless fer sure. you probably got 304 stainless right. good for musky lures

great lakes walleye. wiggle wart or 25-a bombers.

12 below here this morn. factor the wind chills its raw out. no painting t-day. cant get my shop over 55 degrees.. they say 1 more day woohoo.

pick a minnow style to mimic. I wouldrecommend stainless wire for sure. if your using softwoods. balsa cedars I recommend sealer. on smaller lures many seal with sand sealer,or envirotex then prime.recommend white primer. water base paints when dry are very efficient for hobby building. final coat in your region I recommend envirotex lite. cutting lip slots,do when woods square stock.. lexan lip at your desired thickness. where it inserts in lip slot scuff the lexan. more bite for epoxying lip in. hope this helps you out. theres many very iniative,talented builders on this site.

nessmuk. what questions do you need answered. we build trolling lures every day here. as cnc yep I am envious myself lol.. reason I ask the variables are near endless what you need to achieve. depth of bait . wobble. etc.

ben yes that's the one. if your really stumped like I get also. google up the old antique lure colors on the net. that,ll get the juices flowin... wishin I could paint t-day but were into a canadien deep freeze here. heaters cant keep my shop above 50 degrees..

ben. how about a frog with a split yellow belly. the old dying flutter frog. up here in Canada its a decades proven topwater color

on larger musky cranks we do prefer longer shank hooks. hook ups seem better.. on many plastic walleye lures we preferred round bend hooks.. normal distance of a treble fron tine to tine should be the width of the belly of the bait.... that's been our stand on lures .

happy new year. who invented scotch anyhow. lol

canadien beavers have more hair. tuff winters lmao.

merry Christmas folks. I truly hope you get to experience a great holiday season.. for us here it will be a thankfull holiday. I hope you all have the same. George woodie baits.

wadeeing look thru the files here. .. most guys doing blades have learned thru tutorship or life experiences..

cedar. learn weighting procedures. for us its less expensive. would love hinduras mahogany or abache but. its very expensive and creates a larger cost on production runs.

sealers excel in waters that get very cold up here in Canada.

musky baits blk base coats work fine. we even get blk primers here. but as a base color on musky lures as blk perch blk shiners etc.. black is also great for contrast such as bars,scale patterns

been building forevers. run it thru as square stock for lip cut. turn on the thalathe. bandsaw the rest.

lips-bandsaw... very easy

for us and muskies,rattles have done nothing. I do know in plastic lures rattles are influenced on the type of plastic their in.

forstner bit and a vice. you could pre-drill a small pilot hole.