woodieb8

I imagine it can be brushed. I can be dipped. I recommend NOT in your home. dry time is fairly quick. its rock hard but not brittle. imagine your car. it stays shiny after years of outdoor abuse. that's the same clear.

in Canada you still can buy clear lacquer. its fast downfalls are. brittle does not play well with many paints. that why I suggested clear automotive urethane clear coat. you can purchase it at autobody supply stores mix is 4-1. average cost is 37.00 a litre including the accelerator. that product works very well with metal-spoons ,lead products/plastics. as for woods epoxies seem best as wood can have movement/swell.. I have painted hundreds of j-plugs/tomics luck louies for folks thru the years.. hope this helps your efforts. im on the other end of Canada in Windsor ont. funny though my family originated from fernie b.c.

hi tomics very cool. if your looking for a clear coat not a sealer correct. . clear acrylic will work. from a rattle can. if your really into it try an automotive clear coat.. automotive clear thru an airbrush is thin but very durable will work on plastics and woods/metal spoons.. you need ventilation,or you will get buzzed

thanx gents awesome x-rays. that says a whole lot seeing them.. anyone got one of nilsmaster 20cm invincible?

a few years back someone had x-rays of baits built. that was a cool thread.

I wish there was a canadien supplier. create has no intrest in canadien markets. sad deal. to big for there britches in mho.

I have been using paasche h brush for decades. simple. theres many others that offer more intricate detail . but for the bucks and easy parts fix its paasche for me

Bobitas. your correct. here its a lacquer,nitro cellusose. oh ya the English or any language is the same. its called bait making lol.

ya riverman has got it together. I will stay with musky cranks..<br />I have done a few gliders and walk the dog lures.<br />not my forte as they say. lol.<br />that's why I like this forum as I said before.<br />freedom to think outside the box.

my hats off to the guys building small gliders. I am sure balance points and glide action is far more critical then musky zize wood chunks

perma steel as in vmc? if so great hooks. we don't color hooks though.

I am fortunate. I get a load every year of white cedar from northern Ontario. my sis has a lodge /sawmill and gets cedar free. its beautifull wood. very light. normally though we use western red. purchasing wood you have to check every board. .knots/grain all configure into it. any one ever notice lumber yards sell kild dried cedar but its stored outside. daaagh how dumbs that lol.

ccpikies rock. I remember those days before plastic was the ticket. they are legendary lures.

problem with swivels versus static wire/screw hangars is hook rotation . hook rash is a pita. to help rash we have put plastic tube on the hookshank. reduces rash. or the mustad double hook eliminates most hook rash also.

yes screws work very well. I built lures for decades with screws. never a failure.. the current model we build the georgie bait is wired but that's whats required along with ballast lead to achieve the action. seeking56. ya gotta agree building larger baits is an addiction eh.

my old time bass favorite. the heddon dying flutter

muskie lures are normally supersized other specie lures. some choose larger screws0.92 dia. .many including our baits we build wire thru. the reasoning behind is to have lures that withstand teeth and speed trolling up to 5mph.. wire thru will stand up longer over time. the main majority of lure failures is in the net when thrashing fish can have leverage in the bag. as for woods the variables are endless. lighter woods impart faster action..as for wire diameters we use 0.63 304 stainless. some use 0.50. all are good. beacause muskies can exceed 60lbs.

we work around knots. cut them out.. knots can become loose. and sanding can make things uneven knots are always harder then the cedar itself.. insmall baits,wood densitys/balance can be compromised.

lacquer or epoxy based primers. they will bite in not just lay on top

man I am a musky guy. glue will never hold. how about screws under the chin

sounds like the line tie they use on storm hotntots

my start was watching my dad in the 1950,s. fast forward to the early 80,s. then it took over. yes I build for profit,to offset my minimal pension.. the love is still there the thrill when you get a report of big muskies/pike caught on your product is exciting. one thing to be made clear though is. its great to come on line and see the creations and thoughts. worldwide.. thru the years we have helped young. folks in the aspect of fishing and creating. after all its all in vain unless we keep the intrest in the outdoors and fishing.

ya the guys here are perfectly comfortable to be outside the box in creations.. that to me is very cool. . that's also why you will see very cool thoughts and styles.

cedars . look at the end grain on the plank.. you will see how close it is by growth rings. cedars normally have soft and harder substrate within it. we sand only to 80 grit mechanicly. finish sand by hand. to scuff raised grains we use sanding sealers. that removes fuzzies. cedar holds screws better then pines. eastern wh/cedars xcellent also. matter of taste for woods..what actions you need and such.. when you make thousands cost becomes a factor. .

for us here in Ontario Canada we use cedars. it has excellent capabilities for holding sealers/paints. it buoyant and affordable. albeit its dusty and needs tlc sanding,its water qualitys are far superior then many others.. with toothy critters musky/pike your paint/clear will be breached thru teeth and hook rash. cedars will not swell like poplars and other softwoods. just my 2 cents