woodieb8
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Everything posted by woodieb8
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we use dollar store 1 ounce plastic shooter cups. we de-bubble with a dollar store barbecue lighter. i use a gallon of the sticky stuff a month. never had issues as long as you mix it very well.
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hi g finish was available in many pradco lures. we used them i long a-25 and other lures riplin red-fin. g finish was prone to shed quickly from pradco lures.once the lures chipped we used an airblower and the rest blew off completly. even the big boys have paint issues lol
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if the primer stays and color and clear peel,its adhesion issues. as stated have you tried scotch-brite scuff on prime. many waterbase paints lay on prime with no chemical bite. that equates bait peel.
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HI. the lip angle looks to be near 17 degrees. as stated move the line pull closer to the body. that will increase wobble. as for harder denser woods weight slows action.. seal it very well as as it absorbs water it will be even heavier, possibly creating a countdown casting lure. as for slow action here in cold water for muskies it can be deadly for neutral fish. just a few thoughts. nice body style
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its common practice. thru the years we do charterboat custom colors. we have the agreement not to go public for 2 seasons, to protect their secrets.on another subject we have been contacted by company lawyers on packaging card infringments. each country has trademarks, and copryrights.folks ask why we dont get peed off on copied patterns we do. well hell somewhere they were done years back. its impossible for smaller companies to protect images and styles. you,ll go broke defending.
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blue frog. yellow spots blk inserts. ewh/belly red throat and ass.
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Bester, do you scuff the wood hardner? seems if its peeling to wood the bonding issue is a-hardner. b- primer not bonding.. if your worried have you explored zinsser seal prime. it has no bad smell issues. . also dn clear urethanes may be soft on clear coats?
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Bester what wood type? which primer?. muskys and using musky baits will always be poked from hard teeth and joint wear from trolling speeds.. thees several variables that lead to paint peel. oh ya. everyone does run into this if there building musky lures. regionally also, temperaturs of water being fished also can create issues.
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the s.sealer absorbs into wood bodies protecting wood and givesa great surface. foil can be placed over it. we recommend primer afters.s then base colors as most do. then the foils. normally a finish clear coat over the painted product.sanding sealer can be painted over with any paints without crazing, wrinkles etc.. remember you can put enamels over lacquer but not lacquers over enamels.
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If your plans are to do dozens at a time i still recommend lacquer sand sealer.. then the foils. i know your still required a wh/primer coat but, sanding sealer dries fast. i tried the propanite approach years back.. it wasnt for our baits. we had cracking issues. just a thought as others have had excellent results with other solvents, paints, etc.
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have you tried components system. they had excellent glitters in the past.
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hi guys. being a wood guy,i found some plastic wood boards from a bench at homies depot. i cut and drilled a couple bodys. it floats and seems very tuff. its accepted a wh/lacquer primer well. my question is anyone have good or bad experiences. . no pics yet i am an invalid at posting pics.. thanks in advance.
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happy thanksgiving from canada folks.. good food great company, and above all thanks to all whom make these things possible.
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we use lacquers. they are great for fast dry and hold well. remember on wood lures seal the wood. then use a good lacquer prime. from there you can apply any other paints,enamels,,water base over your base coats. been working for us over 20 years.
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if you folks get chance, check out lake st clair. theres a few of us baitmakers up here. theres tons of big muskys up here also.if you want panfishing is world class also.
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sounds good but if you read, making baits and testing tackle-underground covers all the aspects... i have been here for a bit,and i make big baits. the reality though is every concept,paint job or issue relates to every bait. just gotta supersize the order lol.
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dead on about catching fisherfolks. in my world ugly colors to most other specie fishermen are beautys to musky folks. i am amazed at the beautys guys here produce. for us its hard to imagine a coachdog, olive frog pattern can outproce fish over works of art. muskies and water colors on l. st clair tell us. its hero or zero on some days.
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we build musky baits. we use wire thru on differnt styles. also we build screw baits. depending on wood types screws are fine. we have had baitss that have taken over 40muskies,without failure. on the note trollers pull baits at 5mph average. that and big fish in a net thrashing is the most detrimental aspect for lures. hooks in fish and a net gives leverage.
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dip and hang. normal is 1 hour for lacquer sand-seal.
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those pictures are straight up. no adhesion from orignal coat to re-paint. you need an etch prime ,lacquer based yo bite the orignal paintwork. no top coat will correct that. it begins from the re-paint.. on wood its even worse without a sealer to bite into the the wooden pores.
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i re-paint lures for many fishermen. sharpies are a death nell on re-paints. i tell folks if its been sharpied i wont re-do them.. the stuff runs when clearcoated and paints dont stay leaving smudgy messes.
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Vodkaman is correct. dust collection. shop vacs plug and burn out. plus there spark creators that create fires also. we use a 4by 36,and a 1by 30 belt sanders. bvuy good belts and they will last very well. .sorry if i seem to hijak the thread but wood dust and static electricity is very dangerous for woodworkers.
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flat side baits are not on the lathe. we use bandsaws, routers after cutting.
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what i suggest is lower the pull screw. install on anupward angle.. i am computer stupid. i build daily but cant even post pictures.. . as stated assuming the lip is straight its fine. it appears to be cut near 45 degrees., which is good for a medium dive. send me your e-mail i can forward a picture to show you from my files.
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we use lathe duplicaters. what really depends is body shapes of lures. you can use bandsaws/routers/and for the reel dream a cnc.
