woodieb8
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Everything posted by woodieb8
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first off what wood was used to build the lure? we would dis assemble. strip, sand and then use a sanding sealer. let dry and then primer. use of a good epoxy for clear coat. as i originally stated some woods are not very acceptable for water immersions.
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hi. if you are painting a fair bit i highly recomend a oilsumped belt driven compresser. they live longer. you will always have enough air and are less noisy. my first compresser lasted 15 years with every day usage. presently we use a 7hp-60gallon tank compresser. sounds extreme,but we have a dedicated spray room and use air 10hours daily. even a good used compresser is a good buy. just change the oil 2 times yearly.
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hi. if you are painting a fair bit i highly recomend a oilsumped belt driven compresser. they live longer. you will always have enough air and are less noisy. my first compresser lasted 15 years with every day usage. presently we use a 7hp-60gallon tank compresser. sounds extreme,but we have a dedicated spray room and use air 10hours daily. even a good used compresser is a good buy. just change the oil 2 times yearly.
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we use lexan or aluminum lips.. even lexan can break in cold waters. on our larger lures over 9 inch we upscale the lips from 1/8 to 3/16ths
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very nice work. -
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on lead or steel based i prefer automotive clear like dupont chroma-clear 4 to 1 mix. drys in 1 hour without heat. rock hard. downfalls respiater, ventilation and price. its the cats meouw on jigs and spoons. great on plastic baits also. not good on woods
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on lead or steel based i prefer automotive clear like dupont chroma-clear 4 to 1 mix. drys in 1 hour without heat. rock hard. downfalls respiater, ventilation and price. its the cats meouw on jigs and spoons. great on plastic baits also. not good on woods
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i add glitter when the first coats tacky. when its that way it wont run. when dry apply a second coat. works for me i add glitter when the first coats tacky. when its that way it wont run. when dry apply a second coat. works for me
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they look good. heres my process. we use cedar. it absorbs sealers and has corkier action. hardwoods dont accept sealers well. poplar has swelling tendencys when paint coats are broken. sand only to 150 grit. seal twice sanding before primer. primer dip. base coat dip. then airbrush patterns. then final coats. this is my humble process. its much easier doing batches of baits if possible. hope this gives you a few ideas.
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bob p is correct. our process is both. bent wire and the twist on the tail section. we wire thru but drill our smaller lures. musky guys prefer it this way. 0.62 wire can be hard on the hands.
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green painters tape. 1 thing. when cutting lexan lips,it comes with a cover on both sides. after painting just peel it off. it works great on our wire thru minee mee baits.
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wow. if i were a bass,,my lips would be sore. beautifull work
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What Do You Think About The Ban On Lead In Fishing
woodieb8 replied to ROWINGADUBAY's topic in The Docks
If they banned lead, there would be no one left in congress. theres so much lead in their butts.. as stated migratory birds do just that. . from south america all the way to the artic. gill nets kill many more waterbirds then lead.when ducks migrate in the fall the gillnets in the great lakes are filled with diver ducks, loons,. this is peta in action folks. stand up for your rights. -
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hi guys. normally im on hard baits. does anyone have a source for the largest delta blades available. thanx in advance
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cost effective, cedar. it holds paints well. . it truly depends upon your applications.some woods hold screw eyes well. some are to soft. then that requires wire thru.. over building is the best approach for toothy fish.