woodieb8
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Everything posted by woodieb8
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we would strip the bait to original wood. enviroteck it. then re-paint.
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tig 0.62 can be bent easily in the hagens wire benders also. we use it in our wooden muskie lures..
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lol to clean for me.
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we use folk-art crackle. never an issue. a little warmth will accelerate the procedure .
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we seal our lures with enviro. next day is white primer..never an issue .no crack,checking or peel..cedar absorbs sealers well.
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on the smaller b8s we always use the vmc nu. 4 .sharp and strong.
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there vacuum plated chrome on plastics.
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shooting candys is all about the base.
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use some very thin lexan for templates. markers are awfull if you want to repaint over the lure. you will get bleed thru ,and get peed off.
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depending on what the lures are made of for clearcoats..on doing thousands it depends cost factors..there is no magic bullet in the industry.
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tell us, but start with 1 type of what you want to build. theres a million variables..if you want to pour your own thru molding try makealure as stated. you need a mold,then the correct resin,plastic,urethane foam. my advice read till your eyes bleed.then adventure into it.
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are you sure you used lexan? . we have never had this issue for over 4 decades.. im puzzled.
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Resin Swimbaits - Featherlite or alumilite - slow sink application
woodieb8 replied to bassmaster7938's topic in Hard Baits
the post above is sooo true. weighting can kill a lures action...a brief thought for myself would be to go to a smooth-on rigid foam in their 26lb urethane foam..you could adjust weight or more buoyancy with micro-balloons. . -
we build wih 1/8 lexan for lakes without rock areas. some guys use 3/16ths ..lexan is very strong on its own..remember to scuff the lexan lip before epoxing it in. it gives a stronger bond.
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that's an oldie
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we use green frog tape. there will always be a small paint parting line. that's how we do re-paints etc. on what we build lips are installed after clear coats.
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rustoleum 2x white primer works well. .most guys are using a powder paint. we still use actual paints,we use stencils and spray. auto clear finish coat.
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if your doing the blades you will need an acid etch primer..standard paints will not hold up without it. .you will need a blower system and respirator..this holds up on plated blades.
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merry Christmas from Canada.
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hi we run the wire thru ,drill weight hole push wire thru catching hangar. pour led into cavity. the 2 are now impossible to pull apart..we are located on l.st clair in Windsor Ontario.
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we still build customs for clients to order. to pay bills we have to do production..while we don't build smaller lures,mainly musky/pike baits.yes up here on the great lakes,it is a dying art..society wants everything yesterday.
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hi first off. did you seal the wooden body?.. bubbles are normally moisture of to much heat applied to make paints dry.
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try witchcraft tape in Michigan.
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we pour lead where the front belly hangar is on our shad baits..where are u located muskiestalker?
