as stated in the above post. new lustre is a brush on, or poured. its pretty bullit broof for teeth and once again personal preference. in canada its easier to purchase then etex., probably basically the same proponents ase etex. i just think it dries a little faster and a little more clear to show detail
we cut our lip slots on the table saw when the sthe stock is square. i use a standard kerf blade carbide. it cuts 1/8 for the lexan lip. if you plan to do many baits thats the fastest and same results every time. but my band saw is priceless for all of the other work
have the baits been time tested for yellowing. i know lokes are using a poly and some yellow. im just curious. i will look into it myself also. if it works out cool. i have seen several musky baits in my shop for repaints that are cracked real bad. etex was used as a sealer. unfortunate they have to be stripped clean. so many baits look great till there tortured and you see that it can be a real pain if you have hundreds out there
automotive paints will be sold at your local autobody supplier. look under automobile paint and supplies. the clear we used was dupont 2500 plus. as for a toater oven i would not go there. heat lamps in a box maybe. our lo bake had 2 bathroom heat lamps with a blower. it was built to hod 5 racks at a time. sorta like baking cookies. it worked great for metal products, never plastic. hope this helps and merry xmas to all. we are all fortunate
george woodie b8s
years back when we did blades and spoons we racked them and sprayed the epocy primer. then the color or artwork. when dry we used automotive clear. put them in a lo bake oven. at 145 fareinheight for 5 minutes. then when rock hard we tipped the racks onto a sheet spilling them into bags. our outdoor test showed they stood up in harsh enviroment for 2 years. hope this helps
hi jed.
automotive clear coats are great but price wise rxpensive. if any ones intrested in dupont 2500 s clear . greaton plastic bodies and spoon blanks. wood is a different story. my new lustre dry time is now at is slowest with cooler weather. . you stated a faster etex. where could one see it.
im in southern ontario. you could try lee valley tool. they carried a good wood sealer. i dont know if you have rona lumber your way . they may carry the sealer also. the new lustre you have right where your at. it comes from there right.. if you have any questions e mail me. i will try to help you out
if its poplar good luck. the problem many musky bait makers is regional water temp fluctuations. expansion contraction. as we all actually think we have sealed a bait from water is a mis-conception as one tooth hole or rock chip will allow water in. thats why a good sealer definately will correct problems of paint blow off. a good lacquer sanding sealer can be primed in 1 hours time. ventilation and no open flames are a must unless you want to be launched like a scud missle
the problem in my opinion is before the paint. after sanding . use a sanding sealer. this absorbs into the wood pores. . then the paint and clearing process. you will not have a tooth proof bait as its wood but you will stop the flake and paint blistering
we mix whats being used at the time foer lacquers. also if you are doing larger batches of baits we use baby food jars for spraying. disposable and you dont run out of paint spraying
so many different renditions of colors. my walleye pattern is. base white primer, yellow body, brown back, gold scale down sided. white flash on tail. belly can be wh/ or yellow, with red on tail bottom and throat. we also use lacquers
great job. now its teak and play to get where you want to go. im sure theres many on this board that has created fire wood. keep going and dont look back
ya i gotta laff jed. i bet it was johnny huh. i believe they big baits have a place BUT look at the record muskies and what they were caught on.. sure is fun making them cause its easier to detail them.
have you ever tried honduras mahogany. its great but pricey. we have never used alaskan cedar ourselves. or changing the lip angle a couple of degrees will change action, but it depends on your application of where you want your bait to be in the water column. so many variables so little fishing time.
nice topwater bait man. i guess its what your used to using. theres guy on this forum that work magic for sure.. . thats why i enjoy visiting this forum.the imagination is an incredible thing.