woodieb8

well i guess its out for me. its actually to involved. the more process and time involved i am happy with the new lustre 55

if you have the room go to your local farm co-op they have cattle watering tanks. some are 8 feet long and 3 feet deep

now to find a source in the great white north. i would try some to see. i love new ideas

we cut our lip slots on the table saw when the sthe stock is square. i use a standard kerf blade carbide. it cuts 1/8 for the lexan lip. if you plan to do many baits thats the fastest and same results every time. but my band saw is priceless for all of the other work

have the baits been time tested for yellowing. i know lokes are using a poly and some yellow. im just curious. i will look into it myself also. if it works out cool. i have seen several musky baits in my shop for repaints that are cracked real bad. etex was used as a sealer. unfortunate they have to be stripped clean. so many baits look great till there tortured and you see that it can be a real pain if you have hundreds out there

automotive paints will be sold at your local autobody supplier. look under automobile paint and supplies. the clear we used was dupont 2500 plus. as for a toater oven i would not go there. heat lamps in a box maybe. our lo bake had 2 bathroom heat lamps with a blower. it was built to hod 5 racks at a time. sorta like baking cookies. it worked great for metal products, never plastic. hope this helps and merry xmas to all. we are all fortunate george woodie b8s

years back when we did blades and spoons we racked them and sprayed the epocy primer. then the color or artwork. when dry we used automotive clear. put them in a lo bake oven. at 145 fareinheight for 5 minutes. then when rock hard we tipped the racks onto a sheet spilling them into bags. our outdoor test showed they stood up in harsh enviroment for 2 years. hope this helps

normally i have had that only when not letting the paint itself fully cure

hi jed. automotive clear coats are great but price wise rxpensive. if any ones intrested in dupont 2500 s clear . greaton plastic bodies and spoon blanks. wood is a different story. my new lustre dry time is now at is slowest with cooler weather. . you stated a faster etex. where could one see it.

im in southern ontario. you could try lee valley tool. they carried a good wood sealer. i dont know if you have rona lumber your way . they may carry the sealer also. the new lustre you have right where your at. it comes from there right.. if you have any questions e mail me. i will try to help you out

if its poplar good luck. the problem many musky bait makers is regional water temp fluctuations. expansion contraction. as we all actually think we have sealed a bait from water is a mis-conception as one tooth hole or rock chip will allow water in. thats why a good sealer definately will correct problems of paint blow off. a good lacquer sanding sealer can be primed in 1 hours time. ventilation and no open flames are a must unless you want to be launched like a scud missle

the problem in my opinion is before the paint. after sanding . use a sanding sealer. this absorbs into the wood pores. . then the paint and clearing process. you will not have a tooth proof bait as its wood but you will stop the flake and paint blistering

i have used the gold and silver. they work for me guys

try a gel paint pen. available at staples or business depot. then put the clear on your bait

mr. lapala. with the tools you are using creating your work. man that shows true dedication. good stuff you create for sure

i hang rods and baits on the garage ceiling with brackets. they are out of the way. just remember how far the big door rolls up. just a thought

we mix whats being used at the time foer lacquers. also if you are doing larger batches of baits we use baby food jars for spraying. disposable and you dont run out of paint spraying

so many different renditions of colors. my walleye pattern is. base white primer, yellow body, brown back, gold scale down sided. white flash on tail. belly can be wh/ or yellow, with red on tail bottom and throat. we also use lacquers

man i hate to tell you you will have to move your screw eyes for your hooks further apart. the bait style is really cool. never seen anything like it.

great job. now its teak and play to get where you want to go. im sure theres many on this board that has created fire wood. keep going and dont look back

ya i gotta laff jed. i bet it was johnny huh. i believe they big baits have a place BUT look at the record muskies and what they were caught on.. sure is fun making them cause its easier to detail them.

have you ever tried honduras mahogany. its great but pricey. we have never used alaskan cedar ourselves. or changing the lip angle a couple of degrees will change action, but it depends on your application of where you want your bait to be in the water column. so many variables so little fishing time.

nice topwater bait man. i guess its what your used to using. theres guy on this forum that work magic for sure.. . thats why i enjoy visiting this forum.the imagination is an incredible thing.

hi guys. we did a run on painting poplar baits. the problems encountered was they swell like ball park frans when water seeps in. you can never trule seal a bait, and after a couple fish with teeth marks its over. we make muskie baits and are also dealing with large variances in temps. also as jed stated we are using large surface areas of wood.. my personal favorites in wood is cedar or honduras mahogany. each wood when created into a lure has its own reaction or action in the water . the mahogany is slower reacting, then cedar.these are my personal preferences only or as one would say,,, my 2 cents worth

the lacquer sanding sealer we use dries in 1 hour tops. we buy factory direct. it will stop any bubbles from rising when top coating. as for the new lustre i find it has an exellent sheen and is easier to work with. i am sure its very close to the property of e tex and is my prsonal preference. when we seal though we immerse the bait into the sealer to make sure its absorbed into the wood. also lip slots and screw wholes are all predrilled. and yes jed im jealous cause you are probably catching all of them chrome fish right now. mine are slimey and stinky waaa george