woodieb8

hi guys. we did a run on painting poplar baits. the problems encountered was they swell like ball park frans when water seeps in. you can never trule seal a bait, and after a couple fish with teeth marks its over. we make muskie baits and are also dealing with large variances in temps. also as jed stated we are using large surface areas of wood.. my personal favorites in wood is cedar or honduras mahogany. each wood when created into a lure has its own reaction or action in the water . the mahogany is slower reacting, then cedar.these are my personal preferences only or as one would say,,, my 2 cents worth

the lacquer sanding sealer we use dries in 1 hour tops. we buy factory direct. it will stop any bubbles from rising when top coating. as for the new lustre i find it has an exellent sheen and is easier to work with. i am sure its very close to the property of e tex and is my prsonal preference. when we seal though we immerse the bait into the sealer to make sure its absorbed into the wood. also lip slots and screw wholes are all predrilled. and yes jed im jealous cause you are probably catching all of them chrome fish right now. mine are slimey and stinky waaa george

pine is soft. we use a lacquer based sanding sealear then prime. end coat is new lustre as stated above

heres how we do it. the lips are cut when the stock is squared not turned. when sealing and painting we install a piece of lewan-dummy lip. when the clears hard remove the dummy and install the lip. hope this helps

we use new lustre or circa clear.its a very durable and clear drying product. just be sure on your mix. its drying time is exellent. we changed over from etex to the circa and wont go back

we install a lexan piece the width of a lip approx. 3 inches long and then paint and clear. then we install our lips. the holes for screws are already pre-drilled. never had an issue this way

man i feel for ya. i have a nice lead burn scar on my arm. heal quik

cedars harder then balsa. exellent paint retention. its corky fast action.. use a good dust collector when sanding and turning, at the work stations.. you can lead cedar to change the actions needed.. pm me if you have any questions, maybe we can help you out. george woodie b8s

why doesnt anyone use lacquer sanding sealer. its great seals and doent raise the grain. a quik scuff and your ready to prime

try a glue called. seal all. it will bite on scuffed lexan. its waterproof , oil, gas proof

what we do here is mix epoxy in plastic shooter cups from the dollar store. you get 40 cups with graduation marks for mixing for a buck. follow the companies instructions to the t

right on jed. i am fortunate to have some skilled people testing product.this narrows the curve on some stuff.. i truly enjoy the biz, but as stated before i am truly amazed at the creativity from the guys on this board. some are regular mcgyvers, can make a bait out of anything. many people dont see the relenless efforts to have a bait designed and developed into the marketplace. the guys on this board know what we are saying. later guys bedtime

i believe in the fresh ideas on this board. there is no magic answer in numbers. it become a JOB. guys creating a bait for special needs and personal satisfaction is whats it is about. i have been at the game for years and fresh ideas amaze me. grandpa always said. theres moer then one way to skin a cat.

if you can setup a spray room or area. ventilation is a must. the guys are right the heat and humidity really plays a factor on baitmaking. we do between 3 and 5 thousand baits a year but several thousand re-paints and customs. winter is great for working, you can concetrate on baits becayse musky season is closed here.. the guys on this site are very talented and knowledgeble

you can try epoxy primer. its automotive. need ventilation, but it sticks without scuffing. basf makes it in three tones white, blk, and red oxide

after seeing cnn, i will never complain about winters here again

we use lots of cedar. properly sealed it exellent as a fast reaction crank bait

be carefull guys and all of our thoughts and prayers from canada. unbelievable disastor

definately the tow eye out on the lip will put the bait further down. when doing so take into account lip angle. these baits will be very sensitive to tune also. if you need any help maybe i can help out . pm me george

we fish musky. the only good snap is a duolock for us. they are rounded and the bait can achive the action designed into it

kill it and have a crawfish boil mmm

for lacquers and enamels we use baby food jars they are good. also if you spray a lot of one color you can use them also

hebs has been exellent with us. the cod deal can be slow but i guess they protect there intrest. as for the screw drivers from mr. stinson they are AWESOME

a few pointers no pun intended. try before assembly putting some clear tubing onthe shank of the treble. this small piece 1/4 inch will hold the hook off the body, another upon t-ing the hook also bend the outside bent hook forward on each side leaving the center straight. this as you will see the hook will not dig into the clear. this is a common problem especially upon trolled lures. hope this helps you out.

i agree with jed on this one. i have seen a fellow i did business with destroy several companies doing whats mentioned. hes still around stealing, which by the way has and is common practice in this day and age. wish ya well but its definately an uphill battle