woodieb8
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Everything posted by woodieb8
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pine is soft. we use a lacquer based sanding sealear then prime. end coat is new lustre as stated above
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heres how we do it. the lips are cut when the stock is squared not turned. when sealing and painting we install a piece of lewan-dummy lip. when the clears hard remove the dummy and install the lip. hope this helps
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we use new lustre or circa clear.its a very durable and clear drying product. just be sure on your mix. its drying time is exellent. we changed over from etex to the circa and wont go back
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we install a lexan piece the width of a lip approx. 3 inches long and then paint and clear. then we install our lips. the holes for screws are already pre-drilled. never had an issue this way
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man i feel for ya. i have a nice lead burn scar on my arm. heal quik
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cedars harder then balsa. exellent paint retention. its corky fast action.. use a good dust collector when sanding and turning, at the work stations.. you can lead cedar to change the actions needed.. pm me if you have any questions, maybe we can help you out. george woodie b8s
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why doesnt anyone use lacquer sanding sealer. its great seals and doent raise the grain. a quik scuff and your ready to prime
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try a glue called. seal all. it will bite on scuffed lexan. its waterproof , oil, gas proof
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what we do here is mix epoxy in plastic shooter cups from the dollar store. you get 40 cups with graduation marks for mixing for a buck. follow the companies instructions to the t
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right on jed. i am fortunate to have some skilled people testing product.this narrows the curve on some stuff.. i truly enjoy the biz, but as stated before i am truly amazed at the creativity from the guys on this board. some are regular mcgyvers, can make a bait out of anything. many people dont see the relenless efforts to have a bait designed and developed into the marketplace. the guys on this board know what we are saying. later guys bedtime
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i believe in the fresh ideas on this board. there is no magic answer in numbers. it become a JOB. guys creating a bait for special needs and personal satisfaction is whats it is about. i have been at the game for years and fresh ideas amaze me. grandpa always said. theres moer then one way to skin a cat.
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if you can setup a spray room or area. ventilation is a must. the guys are right the heat and humidity really plays a factor on baitmaking. we do between 3 and 5 thousand baits a year but several thousand re-paints and customs. winter is great for working, you can concetrate on baits becayse musky season is closed here.. the guys on this site are very talented and knowledgeble
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you can try epoxy primer. its automotive. need ventilation, but it sticks without scuffing. basf makes it in three tones white, blk, and red oxide
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we use lots of cedar. properly sealed it exellent as a fast reaction crank bait
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definately the tow eye out on the lip will put the bait further down. when doing so take into account lip angle. these baits will be very sensitive to tune also. if you need any help maybe i can help out . pm me george
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we fish musky. the only good snap is a duolock for us. they are rounded and the bait can achive the action designed into it
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kill it and have a crawfish boil mmm
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for lacquers and enamels we use baby food jars they are good. also if you spray a lot of one color you can use them also
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hebs has been exellent with us. the cod deal can be slow but i guess they protect there intrest. as for the screw drivers from mr. stinson they are AWESOME
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a few pointers no pun intended. try before assembly putting some clear tubing onthe shank of the treble. this small piece 1/4 inch will hold the hook off the body, another upon t-ing the hook also bend the outside bent hook forward on each side leaving the center straight. this as you will see the hook will not dig into the clear. this is a common problem especially upon trolled lures. hope this helps you out.
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i agree with jed on this one. i have seen a fellow i did business with destroy several companies doing whats mentioned. hes still around stealing, which by the way has and is common practice in this day and age. wish ya well but its definately an uphill battle
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hey man split the difference try using jump rings and silver solder them on. then you can pull orca in.. we use what you are using. tig wire, welding, and it is not cheap here in canada
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Whats best? A dark color or light on the bottom of a bait??
woodieb8 replied to Mylures's topic in Hard Baits
hi ken. here on st clair the rule of thumb is clean waters wh/belly dark or dirty yellow belly. for natural baits as 9 dollar bass , baby bass and such we use a creme wh/ belly. rember musky can not see down only up and there vision they cannot see dead ahead