woodieb8

foams can be fickle. I'm pouring another gallon this week. up here in Canada we pre-warm the mold noe. colder temps,improper expansions.

you are on your way into a great adventure lol...

hi we use smooth on 15lb foam. .mix well in an atmosphere above 72 degrees. .when poured rotate your mold. foams are gassy remember that. we use a good release,wax based in our aluminum molds. ..toachieve a good finish its about your paint process. .yes it holds screws very well. just cover screw threads with a little epoxy and insert. amazing but fickle stuff till you learn the curve. life cycle of open jugs is short. we pour a gallon in 3 days never had issues. watch for the brown resin to go bad . the clear part holds up. moisture is a killer when left in jugs over time..picture below shows a finished body.

a beauty right there.

yes lacqyuer paints. if you use enamel paint you will have a mess. .remember this. you can put enamel paint over lacquer,,,but never lacquer over enamels.

first coat dry at least 1 hour. clear cellulose/laquer will eat/bond to paint. the 2nd coat I would wait till next day to avoid,running of clear or having the clear eat into the paint itself and cause an issue.

shine is fine. if you dip second coat let bait dry overnite first.

automotive 4t1mix. spray. dries in 4 hours uv protected..you need ventilation/blower system.. ultra clear non yellowing.we do all urethane/foams with it.

clear lacquer works over dried lacquer paints years back we dipped bodies..

have u tried automotive clears?

I apologize for the delay with getting this fixed. Way too many pieces of the puzzle here to get it done quickly.

Still trying to sort this out.

can see the shine. needed more scuffing for primer coat.

for bottles we use babyfood jars. use the paasche bottle siponswith extended Teflon tube into bottle. shoot 4 ounces at a time. save baby food jars guys,

we use three brushes.. paasche. brushes are always in thinners,and have a tip blowerécleaner at hand..

I have done some contact paintin where the bill/lip was covered with saran wrap. the cling wrap type. actually it worked excellent. for years we use the green/blue painters tape. it wont leave adhesive like normal masking tape.

one shot sign painters enamel based. .there floro,s are excellent but pricey.

floro,s .if left in sun over time will wash out..using a good clearcoat will inhibit fade ,but eventually they will fade. we used to use 1shot florourescents,and topcoat automotive clear ..

if your using etex as a seal coat,any solvent primer will bite into etexwhich is alkyd base. you can use any paint afterward water,enamel, lacquer. make sure the colors are dry then topcoat with etex again for mr toothy...this is for wood baits, on plastics its different.

gino. you can spray basicly any paint. lacquers,enamels,automotive urethanes. remember though. you will need to clean your airbrush right after spraying.

years back when we had contract work for wholesale companies. we did bomber 9-a,25-a models,also luhr Jensen hot lips,power dives. the top coat clear was ,clear acrylic sprayed. for custom builds nowadays we use transtar clear..transtar automotive gives the best gloss,durability over clear acrylics....this is on plastic baits. on woods the process changes..we used to do Blakemore trouble shooters by the garbage bag ,grrr,same process.

thru the years I have become sensitive to envirotex. I get itchy with contact,. its rubber gloves now. as for using automotive clears they are toxic. before shooting,we start the blower system to create a draft. that way shooting into the plegnum fumes and overspray wont backwash into the area.. my blower system will open a mandoor from 24 feet away..as posted its repeated exposure that will get ya. play safe guys.

hang them bye a wire till there dry completely. I know we all rush. some times slo is faster . I'm guilty too.

mark. stated it all in a nutshell.

envirotex on wood lures for us..gallons every year..slo and steady lol.