robbor

You should not need nickle, an aluminum blade should be fine. If you really have to have a nickle shiny blade you will probable have to contact worth,stamina, Hagens or other and probably buy 1000 or 10000 blades and they will probably rally ding you for them, except maybe hagens. I good epoxie paind might last ok if your blades are roughed up. I fished buzzbaits alot a few years back and I actually prefer a more subtle bait. I fished a black bait with a black blade and a white bait with a and normal alum blade. My preference is a black bait in swampy off color areas shallow with heavy cover and white in more large bodies/resivoirs and open water. I did switch a few times when i broke off or killed a bait and honestly still caught fish on my opposite color. As it is said nowadays, lures catch fishermen not fish. I tried BPS buzzers and they were crap, I got some stanley buzzer and my catch went up atleast 2x, Then a tried terminator big POS, i even bought a $9 buzzer that was supposed to the so awsome, it didnt compare to the stanley. I did ok with strikeking and bluefox also. A lure that simply works at a decent price is what i go for, no gimmicks.

I have my little mold frame for vulcanizing a small mold, like jewelry style. As a recall talking to one of you guys you mentioned putting in small metal pins through some hook eyes, i was wondering if you would recommend that for this type of recessed eye jighead?

I talked to an old timer that manufactured micro jigs who used poly-sil and said it was actually an automotive paint. I could never find it locally and with the hazmat it was not worth trying to get a sample. The company was turner jones micro jigs, I dont have a number handy though. Their jigs were very durable, id say as good a powered paint or close.

Im not quite following you del. When I was in school we made one of those squeeze change purses by dipping a mold then splitting it. Sound like you are recomending and inside mold and an outside mold??? I was just thinking of an outside mold with a wire through it for nose and hook hole and then injecting the mold and slowly spinning.

Anybody have any experience trying to make or making scum frog bodies? I was thinking about giving it a try. Seems like youd use a hollow 2 piece mold. I have no idea what type of plastic though?

Anybody ever try spro swivels on their horse or pony head jigs?

Ive seen some jigs that had SS metal rings to hold the skirts on, anybody have any idea if they can be bought?

Ok I recall seeing a lure similar out of tubing. I would think filling the tube with lead would kill the action. probably the easiest thing would be to just find a good jighead you like for cod and then copy it in plaster or durhams. But im thinking all the plaster may cost about 1/2 of just buying a do-it mold and youd be alot happier. Not exavtly what your after but may work for you: Do-it shad bait lure mold. 4 & 6 OZ H style jig head 2 and 4oz hot lips 4 & 5 oz these are small , I do realize Here is the jig I was thinking of : Do-it spire point jig-all the way up to 20 oz I still dont really get what youre after. An idea would be to use a heavy ball with 2 eyes on it then a swivel and then the tubing and hook. That should get it down but leave the tubing loose to move for jigging. OK ..... got something, maybe, kind-of??? How about drilling a small hole in your tubing just big enough for the hook point to go through and then inserting it like a jighead. Then make something to hold it on end to pour lead into. Plaster ,alum, wet wood, should be easy to bore a hole in and add a nose in the wood or alum with a mill bit ot countersink. then pour away. Send me some pics when and if you make something, go_rob_go@yahoo.com

OK where to get powder paint from? Any body have better prices or bulk? Also anybody try they automotive powder paint on ebay?

PIPE JIGS??? 1/2 contuit wont take lead or solder you will have to use copper or possibly brass but not sure about brass. Flux is used to transfer heat/flow better and some flux has acid to clean the surface for bonding. Lead wont bond to steel as far as I know. Im not sure what you are doing but you could drill a few holes in pipe and then get another larger piece of pipe as a sleeve to cover the holes and lead will flow into the holes and pin the lead to the pipe. For copper you would probably need to flux/acid the pipe while tinning it with solder and then the lead may bond(???). As far as I know the lead guys use a little wax as flux in lead but that wont make it bond to steel,tin,galvanized..... Post a pic or details and im sure someone will be able to help. Im guessing they are big heavy ocean jigs for up north???

Well all my molds are nonstandard but I still dont have a lead pot. I started making some molds because some of my favorites were being discontinued. I have about 4 silicone molds of stanley buzzbait, ledgebuster, mini booyah spinnerbait with weight added and ???. Then I have one custom alum injection mold with 16 foxee bodies for 1/32oz jigs

Im wondering if one of you guys wouldnt mind pouring me 3 of your 1/4 oz live bait jigs with a normal # 2 jig hook(570?) that i can test. Unpainted go_rob_go@yahoo.com

Anyone try adding a plastic keeper barb to a do it mold? I was thinking about getting a minnow head mold and then adding a scond barb. Alos do you guys have an trouble with going to smaller than recomended hooks for your molds? Thanks Rob.

Hey guys, Its been a long time since Ive been here. I was in the garage and ran across a piece of alum that I started to form into a womr a few years ago. So I decided to finish it. So I put it on the lathe and finished off the body and polished it up a little and then put a notch in the tail for different tails and then made a tail shaped from a spoon. Anyways I thought some of you may like to see the pic to here it is. I never did do plastics but can only guess Id need to make an rtv mold of ,some day. Anyways, here's my 14" worm, good fishing guys.

contenti tekcast conquest ind All will want about $10,000 for a complete setup. Most dont give any info but will train you in you buy their equipment. They have them on ebay from time to time, the last one i watched was a complete setup(spincaster, vulcanizer, frames,lead pot) and 2 extra spincasting machines and sold for under 5k. Almost no detailed info is avail al the little details like molding in hook keeper into your molds and deatails on gating. A few people have said a fair price for a complete used setup is 2-3K. Then their is silicone and rubber which is listed with temperature range of low med high, very high and no detailed info seems to be avail about what theat actual temp range is either. I have made a aluminum frame to vulcanice small hand molds in the oven and am about to make a larger mold to make 9" centrifigal casting molds in the oven. I delt with conquest once and they misquoted me prices by 50% for supplies as they were trying to get me to buy one of their casting packages Im sure. They quoted me $25 for 12" silicone for 2 pieces and when I went down to buy it(1 hour drive) they were $40 each and the price quoted was for 5+ sets even though I asked for a quote for 2 pieces. Some of the equipment can be made your self as I have seen homemade vulcanizers made out of a hyd shop press and stove elements, but the sponcaster is a bit more dificult. Id suggest you try and find a spincaster locally to let you see some molds and the equipment. I tried but was unable to find any locally but 1 or 2 guys were nice enough to send me pics.

Like all lure old or obsqure, about your only choice is to make a molds out of silicone and make them yourself.

Its been talked about that most wholesalers and distributors only want to sell to an actual tackle shop(store location and pic required) are there any that dont require this? Also who are the major tackle wholesalers/distributors? Or do you end up buying direct from the manufactures?

For those of you who have a spincasting machine, how do you center your mold in the machine?

Does anybody sell the kooks with the fishie molded on like on the mepps comet minnow?

actually this is the box I use, its a 3730 http://www.planomolding.com/content/index.cfm?siteaction=product&lineid=4&groupid=18&sectionid=64&partid=239 so the bags ore probably 3 x 4"

Im not quite sure what your asking. Keeping painted jigheads from the paint getting chipped? I would just consider getting some really small zip lock bags and putting 10-15 jigs per bag and not worry about it. The bag itself will dampen any movment so a min of damag is caused. Also most damage iv seen if from water, ever see a whole fly box full of rusty flies? Kind of the same with uncoated lead jigheads. Also dirt and oils mess them up a little What I use for all my crappie tubes and heads is a plano stow-away, deep model like thishttp://www.planomolding.com/content/index.cfm?siteaction=product&lineid=4&groupid=18&sectionid=64&partid=235 and then I found small zip lock bags that are about 3.5" x 2.75" and they lay in the box sideways and keep all my plastics and jigs , clean, from melting into everything and from bleeding into each other. I can fit 4-5 bags in each section to have more selection of colors in a small area. basically I end up with a box full of lures instead of a box where only the bottem half is full of lures.

Actually I wanted to mark the aluminum master for when I make the silicone mold. I have number stamps but they are small and probably would not stand out well once lead is poured.

I made a master for a weight out of aluminum and then made a mold to pour a few and get the actual weight, which was 9 ounces. Now any body have any ideas on putting the number on my weight? Im going to make a new mold out of silicone so if i stick some type of number to it it will need to be able towithstand 35odegrees F in the oven.http://onfinite.com/libraries/1100807/a10.jpg http://onfinite.com/libraries/1101051/a10.jpg

I dont have the pics avail, where ever i used to have them hosted at I dont remember. MY mold frame is for making hand pour molds. I made 2 frames my large fram has a cavity that is about 3"X4"X1.25 and then I have 1/2" top and bottem plates. The whole deal is drilled for 5/16 bolts to clamp and it really needs it, I broke a 1/4 so I redrilled and went bigger. I use mica powder because I had it for my reloading stuff. It has worked fine. I am seriously considering making a 9" spincasting mold frame though, I believe the casting will go much better and faster. They only use about 10psi to clamp of that, some just use weights, though about springs though also. I used whit unvulcanized silicone from conquest, they quote me about $25 per is I bought 5 sets of sil. They actually quoted me that proce for 1-2 sets but when I drove all they down there they charged me atleast 40, I will put the screws to them if/when I go back to get more. I am going to take a milling class and want to make my own crappie jig mold for masters then I will work on moving to spincasting.

FYI there is a spin casting machine (contenti) on Ebay with a buy it now price of $400 in WV, good chance to snatch one up if you lived close.