robbor

Please email me if you do. I waould like to know what part make up the r bender portion of the former.

You need to ask if anybody has "2" membranes around, I want one! Since you STOLE my ideas, it looks alot better (i forgot who I stole them from!) Your base is perfect to mount to a metal plate through the 4 corners to make it real stable. You ocean fish or use swimbaits for bass? The paint looks nice, but I would still cure them, if all the same. One question(from a perfectionist) why not powder paint all the lead and not leave the lead on the barb exposed? Also how much powder paint did it take to fill your fluidbed. Thanks for the pics it just might give the the nudge to build mine.

I was throwing some lures in a box to use as masters later and I took a little 3/16 oz crappie spinnerbait and added a cut and drill out worm weight to it. Turned out pretty good if a skirt will slide over it. Just thought id share

water putty,plaster are easy. Also bondo, resin, or what ever you have around. If you have to ask the cost you dont want to know! Make 1 or two molds then decide based on how well they come out for you. Plastic, color and glitter are easily $40 on the cheap side.

I love it, I always sneak into the kitchen, I just finished cleaning two reels in there! I have this project in the back of my head but have not got to it yet. Looks a little messy? . Most have said the vibrator is not needed. Also yes you should get a valve. That is the biggest aquarium pump I have seen. I have an old little itty bitty pump from my aquarium days. I was thinking alsong the lines of a large compression connector cut in half so I could easily replace the filter(was going to try two pieces of filter) Also I was thinking of adding a lead weight int the base, A big piece or a buncg of shot mught do for you to make it more stable. I dont see any pictures of the lures though Good job! RUN THE WIFE IS COMMING!!! :-D

I can see you with a half of a glass coffee pot of lead direct pouring into molds . Just thinking out loud here. Yes coffee pot gets hot but never seems to boil, right! Water boild at 212F. so it does not get up to 212 or not fast enough. Lead melts at like 400-600f. I dont think it will work. But not if you take the heatinmg element out of the coffee maker and lay it directly in your lead pot, you might stand a chance.

Any idea mow many molds you think you can make per 10# kit??? I like the class A eyeball!!

On making the sprues all one bar with ports, Do you recomend taking all the material out but about 1/8" that is the gate,(and I know doit's dont really have gates for round jigheads) or you recomend like a 5/16 or so channel connecting then with the lower part of the sprue showing?

I'd like some input from those of you who know about making hard plastic crankbaits. Im am wondering about making a float/bobber out of hard plastic. How would I go about doing it? recomend a method and maybe a plastic also that will not be eaten up by plastic worms. the float is balsa and has a plastic leg glued to the bottem. I was thinking of making the body as one piece and the leg as a seperate piece and then glueing. I am wondering about making the body hollow, would I just shoot plastic in a form and then slowly spin until dry to create a hollow or would I have to make the body as 2 pieces and glue them togather(which would be a way more difficult mold). OR could it be made out of some sort of less dense plastic but solid that floats? (thinking that solid wont work).

Yay!!! I got the pic posted! So the frame is way over built yes! The top and bottem are removable plates(1/2") and ther are holes on all four sides. So far each end has one hole and one side has 8 holes spaced out 1/2" apart and the other has 5 holes spaced out 3/4" apart. The holes are 1/8" for sprue formers used in jewelry making. Now I have not made anything in the mold yet so, Im not shure about plugging the holes yet. I dont know if the sprue rods will just stay in place under the pressure or if I will have to either tap each 1/8" hole or tap a hole on either side of each series to screw a block over each series to hold all the rods in under the pressure. The scrap of aluminum I bought was the smallest they had in 1 1/4 thick and was actually big enough to make 2 frames out of, I cut it in half and it was still bigger than needed so rather than cut it I just chose to leave the sides thick, I think one side is 1.5" and the other is about 2". The block was milled out with a crappY extruded aluminum x/y table and an old 4 flute mill that some gave to me. I first cut out the hole in the center and then milled it roughly square. Its rougher than it looks but turned out well I thought. I determined the size by drawing 1/4 of a 12" circle(silicone 12" unvulcanized disc) then figure out how large I could make it and what shape I wanted. So It is made to mold 2 rows of small jigs heads at the same time with a row of 8 small heads(aprox 1/100th ice jigs) on one side and a row of 5 larger(aprox up to about 1/8 oz). But can obviously mold a single row or larger lures from the ends. I made a large and a smaller mold frame and should be able to get roughly 4 large and 4 small molds out of one disc but the small mold will probably have corner spilices to have the silicone fill the inside but is supposed to bond and be one piece. I also left room for small lock nuts in the corners to allign the molds. It took alot longer than I thought to to mill out and layout and drill all the holes. Not knowing anything about milling a 2 flute bit didnt work worth anything at 1000 rpm but the 4 flute did fine. I used automatic trans fluid to lube and keep the chips clear. This was a project to be able to make masters and play with designs with out using a whole spincasting silicone disk up. I will have more pics tward the end of the year with 12" mold frame and homemade spincaster.

I got the dig camera software installed and looked at the tutorial on using MS paint, thanks TU! Got them posted

Here goes

Well I got the digital cam software installed and hopefully i resized the pic enough.

Since it will be a silicone mold I should be able to easily make the gates larger or rectangular easily.

someone mind posting or resizing a pic for me this evening. I dont have a program to resize them to post. Or recomend a free download.

Its rob with the mold you made for me. Im just trying to find specifics on sprue and gate sizes for smaller jigs. I just made up two mold frames like they make on jewelry but thicker and with a top and bottem plate to vulcanize in the oven. I have kind of decided on 3/8 and 9/16 sprue formers for really small and normal sized lures. And if you know of sprue formers, they come on a 1/8 in rod. Im going to turn them down to a smaller diam to help me stay with a uniform size to give me something to go by when I finish cutting the gates. I was thinking of trying the same size gates you put in on the crappie jig mold. But some of my lure are real small and I may try a slightly smaller gate. Always nice hearing from ya rick. Thanks, Rob

Care to tell a little about making the origional mold? How well does rtv stick to a bullfrog??? Did you freeze him so did him in alcohol first? Great looking bait but with almost no action I can only think of dreagging it across heavy cover. Ever thought about making the legs either bent or out like a T so when you jerk it the legs go back and at rest they move back either bent or out to the side which is kind uo natural but a bigger mold.

I'm shure alot of people have been ripped off. I spoke to a guy(manufacture) Turner Jones micro Jigs and hea said that just as a simply good jesture me showed someone how he made one of his jigs and that someone worked with or owned rainbow tackle or something and they started producng and selling hus lures exactly, right out from underneith him. Now on the other hand who ever made the first spinner bait is not getting anything from any of the 100's of companies making spinnerbaits. As far as designs go, many see no point in trying to reinvent the wheel. You could try to make a plastic worm from scratch but in all reality you will be borrowing from many design to come up with what you want, unless you have never seen a plastic worm and are trying to invent one and not doing any reasearch. But there are alot out ther blatently stealing.

Nice simple frames! You should have posted a pic of one of your molds. As for your name and number, dont they come out raised??? Any wouldnt you want the recessed??? Good job though!

I will post some pics in a week or so. Right not I dont have a program installed to resize the pic so they will post. My frame is 1 1/4" in thich and about 7 x 8 outside. Inside it is milled to 3 x 5 and has 8 hols drilled all the way through for studs. Each side of the mold takes a 1/2 aluminum plate which bolts on. The sprue formers are sall cones on 1/8 in rods. If you look at a jewelry mold frame they are almost the same, mine is just beefier and with studs. The thickness in 1 1/4 so i can put in a 1/4 spacer plate to compess and not hove excess sticking out the top when I add the cover plate.

the silicone mold should probably last forever if they are not abused or overheated.

Can I cast other materials besides metal? * Yes. Although zinc, tin and lead alloys are the most common materials cast using the spincasting process, other materials such as wax, resin, and thermoset plastics can also be used. These materials can be used in the same silicone rubber molds used for casting metal.

With metal it has a much higher weight so the spinning forcer acts much more. You could use the same basic mold but put in small vents and then just inject it and wait with out spinning, then do it again. You would need to come up with a large injector or pressurized injecting pot(thrift store pressure cooker).

I just finished two aluminum mold frames to try and vulcanize silicone in an oven. One is 2.5 x 3.5 and the other is 3 x 5. I even found sprue formers in sizes 3/8 to 9/16. My last step is to drill holes for the sprue formers. I milled out the frames on an x/y table on a drill press. They turned out ok.

I an interested in the 1/32 and smaller down to 1/100th. I am wondering if you can tell me what the large end diameter of the sprue/mold is and what the size of the gate is? And have you tried pouring with a ladle with any of the molds, they state only for bottem pour pots.