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This is very good info, and interesting. Maybe I have just been lucky, but I haven't had a problem either and have been using super glue gel for several years now. I seem to lean toward the Devcon being the culprit here, just a gut feeling (or was it a bad burrito ?)

That is too cool. Found myself singing as I was reading it. So much more refreshing than the 10 o'clock news. Thanks Old Man in the Boat!

Ed, Welcome to 'Lure Therapy 101'. This is just the beginning, so fasten your seat belt.

I was ordering other colors and asked if they could send a couple of ounces of the flourescent yellow for me to test. The gal taking my order said she would, so I will know next Wednesday when it is due to deliver. In looking at the color chip shown on the website, it is all washed out looking. Click on it and it will bring up a photo of a head for a jeep engine painted flourescent yellow. Now that color is very close to what I am after, but again will not know til the sample gets here.

Charles Hymes 804 364-9887 www.fishingskirts.com If Charles don't already have it, he can no doubt get it for you, give him a call - super guy and great to do business with.

Ol' Mike, I don't know for sure, but am hoping it is the flourescent yellow. I have a sample coming to me right now but it won't get here til next week. The pic in the on-line catalog sure doesn't reflect the color I am looking for, nor does the one in the regular catalog. Will advise once I get the sample.

A fluid bed fluidizes the powder. Now that I dazzled you with that, I'll try to explain. Powder paint is very dense and is compacted in a jar, kind of like wet sand. In a fluid bed the powder is mixed with air and is actually suspended in the cushion of air. When the bait enters the fluid bed, there is no resistance like you get when dipping in a jar and the bait is completely surrounded by powder applying an even coat over the entire surface of the bait. Hope this wasn't too confusing. Munkin, I use a standard 3" cup to paint all my spinnerbaits with the largest being a 1oz with a 6/0 hook, no problems.

Mags, Suggestion. Contact the IRS at the State level and ask for clarification on any issues you have with this law. They are more than willing to help and actually want you to understand what you are doing. They were more than helpful here in Oklahoma when I first filed for the exemption. They are human and get just as confused as we do, most of it is all in the interpretation, and it is best you both agree on that.

I sent you a PM

Welcome aboard Cory. Why wait til this winter, the time is NOW. And from the sound of your enthusiasm, you are ready. So get started, everyone here is waiting to assist. Good Luck.

I use a piece of stainless spinnerbait wire that is close to the size of the hook eye. While hot, I pass the wire through the eye and rotate it as I pull. This method collects the paint onto the wire and leaves the hook eye very clean looking.

Very well said Chuck, and thanks for keeping Mr. Jones and Mr. Smith in the loop. Mags, Shorty's charged you the 10% tax because you did not have a 637 form. To them, you are the end-user of the hooks you purchased. This insures the IRS that tax will be paid on them. Had you the 637 form, they would not charge you and you would be liable to pay the tax, unless you continue to manugacture on them and resell to someone else. At that point of sale, it is your responsibility to ask your customer if he is registered. If he is, you charge no tax and if he isn't you have to charge him. Everything crystal cloudy clear so far? Through all these scenarios, one can see where the IRS is most likely being paid numerous times on the same bait. It is ok for them to double dip, but don't you try it.

It is confusing but my interpretation of the nutshell is that you are obligated to pay the tax if you are manufacturing and completing tackle for sale. Example would be: If I cast 100 spinnerbait bodies and sell them to Mr. Smith and he paints them and turns around and sells them to Mr. Jones who then hangs blades and skirts on them and puts them up for sale, it is Mr. Jones who is liable for paying the 10% tax on those baits. It is tough to answer Bountiful Waters question in less than an evasive way. First of all, are you registered or just a hobbyist? If you are registered, then YES, you would be obligated to pay the tax. If you are merely a hobbyist and selling some of your buddies some baits here and there, then you are just flying under the radar and should hope they never discover you. Bottom line! If it were me, I wouldn't worry about it unless I got too big and then I had better get legal real quick. It would hurt to have to pay retroactive taxes and fines, just not worth it. And that's my 2 cents on this issue. Actually my wife has the accounting degree and handles all this type stuff, I think she might even understand some of it. If you have any other questions, I can direct them to her for clarification.

For those using propane torches to heat leadheads for powder painting, here is a great money saving tip. I had a large quantity of those empty propane bottles that I was getting at WalMart for $4.50 for two of them. In reading the label, it said 'DO NOT REFILL'. So what do you do with them? I found an adapter in a Harbor Freight catalog called a MAC COUPLER. It stated that it is used to re-fill those 14oz bottles rather than disposing of them. You can also find them on eBay for around $17. Your source is an outdoor barbque grill bottle. It cost about $11 to fill the grill tank. So far I have re-filled 26 of the 14oz bottles and it feels to be about half full. You do the math. With the price of virtually everything going UP these days, this is one area you can recover some money real quick. Hope this helps some of you powder coaters.

Pop, I have been doing the same as you for quite some time with no problems. I had a large amount of spinners that didn't get sealed well and oxidized. Heating with a torch and powder painting as usual with no extra prep. Like Clamboni, I prefer to paint as soon as possible but every now and then I don't get it done. I have found though, that by keeping them in a well sealed plastic zip-lock type bag has prevented them from oxidizing. Good informative post Pop!

Clockwise and counter-clockwise turning blades are used when more than one blade is used on a buzzbait. An in-line, or single wire, bait with two blades has to have opposite turning blades to prevent over torque and causing the bait to roll or pull hard in one direction. Twin wired buzzbaits also require opposite turning blades for the same reason. With opposite turning blades, it enables the bait to run straight and does create a good commotion and lots of bubbles like Pop said. Like most baits, they can be very productive at times.

Javelin, I don't recommend using tape. Two reasons: First, the thickness of the tape will not allow the mold to close flush - thus your flashing. Second, the adhesive residue left from the tape is going to get pretty gooey from the heat of pouring. On most spinnerbait and buzzbait molds, because the wireform and hook hang over the edge of the mold surface causing the two to not lay flat, I use another Do-It mold laid open and right alongside the one I am loading to support the wireform until I close the mold. Once closed, the clamping of the two halves should keep everything tight in the mold, if using the recommended wire and hook (not always true with Do-It). If the recommended wireform and hook are loose with the mold in the clamped position, try using a small centerpunch and peen the groove for each with it and this will hold them in place. Try these hints and I hope you will be on your way to mass production. Good luck.

tailchaser, I had the same problem with the glitter bunching up on the jig and bare spots elsewhere. I found through trial and error, that you have to find the right mixture of clear powder with glitter. Unfortunately I can't give you a formula. What I have found is if the glitter appears to you to be too heavy, increase the amount of clear powder. Also adjust the air flow of your fluid bed so you can just see the glitter moving across the top of the powder. Too much air seems to disturb the flow. Remember, the glitter wants to settle to the bottom, so the correct air flow is important. I hope this helped, it is frustrating because it is your final coat and you want it to look perfect. Practice, experiment and practice some more. Good luck.

Ted, I don't have this particular mold you are reffering to, but there are others of Do-It's molds that have the same problem. What I have done is I use a small piece of wood about a 1/4" thidk and glue it to the bottom of the mold where the hook hangs down. Place one one each half leaving enough gap when closed for the hook to be clamped in place. If need be, you could let the wood extend back far enough to catch more or the hook when clamped. Glad that you have already found a solution. You are correct about Do-It using the same blank casting for all their molds, and why not? Saves them a bundle.

Chuck scores another one! It sure is great to hear good things about your work. I can testify to what Chad is saying about Chuck, he has been very helpful to me and willing to help wherever he can. Without his help I would have only added to a long list of failures. I too, thank you Chuck.

Ghost, It depends on what you are looking for. Give some specifics (items), and everyone will be glad to point you in the right direction. Barlow's and Jann's are the middlemen, or retailers. They work hard to get the best prices from the manufacturers through negotiations and volume buying. It has been my experience that they are not willing to share their sources with you. Also, many manufacturerers will not sell to you at a lower price say than what they sell to Barlow's or Jann's as that would be classified as 'industrial suicide'.

bojon, No I am not related to Dave. He used to post on here quite often, but have not seen him visiting recently. He contributed alot to this forum, I too learned much from his posts. I would be honored to meet the man. Glad I was able to help you, good luck with your idea, I think it will work.

I'm not sure what the temp range is on the teflon rod, but it is pretty high. The only way I have been able to destroy one is I accidentally left it in the jig and ran it back to the flame to flow the powder paint, it was toast then. I use them in the spin casting mold where a metal pin would be used in a Do-It mold. They last forever. I am not sure but do think the properties of the stuff is listed on the McMaster page with the rod. Go to www.mcmaster.com and type in the search box - 'PTFE TEFLON' and it will take you to the pages with the rod, it comes in all different shapes.

If you are having weed guards coming out with the super glue, try using the super glue gel. Also it is way less messy and does not wick up the fibers of the weed guard. When painting jigs, I use a piece of PTFE teflon rod in the hole. I heat the jig head, insert the teflon rod, dip in the powder paint and immediately remove the teflon rod. Leaves your socket for the weed guard paint free. You need the proper diameter teflon rod which can be purchased from McMaster-Carr. Good luck and welcome to the Underground.

I have two RCBS pots and the only complaint I have is the occasional drip that is somtimes hard to stop. I think the advantage to an RCBS over a Lee is, like Pickerel Pete said, the amount of working room is much greater. The amount of lead in the pot is also an advantage when pouring large amounts, mostly in time savings of refilling and having to wait for the lead to get back up to temperature to pour. If you have visions of expanding in the future, get an RCBS, it will be a good investment. Since I started spin casting several years ago, mine don't get the use they used to, but are there for me when I have the need.