reeves

There are some used machines out there if you can locate them, that would be more in the price range for a beginner at spin casting. That is the way I started out and if was the ticket for me, within my budget and met my production needs. I do have a used machine if anyone is interested.

What I do is I take a very small piece of unvulcanized silicone rubber (used to make spincast molds with), and lay it in the wire/hook groove. Place the wire and hook in the mold and position it where you want it and wipe the excess away. I know you probably don't have any unvulcanized silicone rubber, but I am sure childrens clay would work the same. The stuff lasts forever for many many pours without having to replace it. Another member not too long ago posted a tip on this subject which I thought was very good as well. He recommended using a small spring loaded center punch on the edge of the groove for the wire/hook to place a light peen there to hold them. This would be more permanent and repairable if you are too heavy with the hammer. I don't like the idea of tape, too much clean-up. Good luck!

I use a glue I get from Radio Control Hobby shops. It is a form of super glue and is called CYANOACRYLATE GLUE - EXTRA THICK. It is used on radio control planes and toys because of the vibration factor with these things. I like it because it is as stated, extra thick and much easier to work with than the super glues in the tube you pick up at the check out stand in stores. It comes in a 2 oz. plastic bottle with a nozzel that inserts easily into the socket for a weedguard. You can also pick up a long tapered nozzel to add on to the one on the bottle if you want to do finer applications and only release a drop at a time. 2 oz. lasts forever and only cost like $8 while the little tubes of super glue do not last very long at all and cost $1-$2 ea. I have not had a problem with the weedguards coming out, even when bent over 90 degrees and fanned out. Try it, I think you'll be pleased.

Hi Ted, I am assuming the lexan is going to be the base for the fluid bed and the schedule 40 the pot. I would think that any epoxy will do the job. If Benjamin (dayooper) views this, he is the master at this and I'm sure will jump in. If it were me, I would go with a good epoxy though. Let us know how you do.

I have one. Will send you a PM.

Welcome aboard GPW. An aquarium air pump is all that is needed for your fluid bed air source. As far as how much pressure is required to float the powder, I couldn't tell ya, but it isn't much. You must have a pet$*#$*#$*#$*# type valve at the inlet of the bed to be able to control the amount of air entering the bed. Once you are up and running, set the air pressure so that you do not have any volcanoing or bubbles, if you do it is too much air. The powder must just be even across the top or you will have more all over your room than in the cup. Another recommendation is to have an exhaust fan very near your fluid bed. You will get a lot of hits on this thread as there are some very knowledgable guys here using fluid beds. Good Luck, and keep a shop vac handy.

I agree, purchasing wire forms is very cheap compared to the time it takes to make your own. Unless you have some idle time and are looking for something to do, purchase them. Plus they will be more consistent than making your own. Just my thoughts.

Cadman, you are taking on a HUGE project. Any help I can lend, like samples or anything, you got it. Just a thought, but I wonder if anyone, like Harry, at Shorty's would have something like this as it would be an invaluable tool for them. And like Pop said, some of the manufacturers didn't follow the rules and make them all the same size. I use a lot of Owner hooks and they are larger than most others in the same size, they can be crossed over but to a different size of a different manufacturer. Good Luck and help is just a post away.

Ernel, that is a great looking bait. I don't think there is a fish out there that would criticize it as hard as you did. Agreed, TU is the best. So many willing to help save you time and especially money. Cal, Tackle University, I like that! Where you shouldn't expect to graduate, except to the next level.

I re-use mine and have never had a problem with them. The nickle ones are the easiest, the lead seems to scrape right off and they look good as new. The red hooks are tempermental and I only will dip that part that is going to be in the bait into the lead to remove it (did that make sense?). Once you mess up a red one, just keep for personal use, the fish won't mind but your customer might.

Hey PLOP, I too am interested, will follow with an e-mail. Thanks

Perfect! An A+ for your daughter.

Try these guys, they make all kinds of eyes, flat stick-on, 3-D, big ones, small ones, eyes galore. Give them a call, they will send you a catalog/price list. Good luck Muskydan666. WTP Inc. P.O. Box 937 Coloma, MI 49038 269 468-3399 www.wtp-inc.com

Is it blowing air out the nozzle or elsewhere? If it is out the nozzle, it sounds like the trigger is stuck or you forgot to put the spring back in the trigger valve. Just guessing here without all the details. Check that and get back to us for more guesses.

Hey Cadman, thanks for answering TR21X on that question. Was out in the shop slaving away. The airbrush cost either $30 or $35 don't remember. It is a cheapo Badger that has no needle, so NO a regular airbrush won't work. It requires very low pressure, only a couple of pounds to push the powder through the gun. They suggest taking a small box, which I did, to use as a "booth" and cutting a hole in the back to hook a shop vac hose into. This primitive little set-up actually works. Keeps you from being in a cloud of powder. It comes with like six jars and does work pretty well, at least for me it was worth the $$$ I put out for it. For Sterling, a 2 0z. jar will last a long time, they recommend only filling the jar either 1/2 or 3/4 full to let it work properly. Just don't make the mistake I did. Forgot to lower the air pressure the first time I used it. Was pushing like 30# and what a mess, I'll let your imagination take over here. Hope everyones questions are satisfied. George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK

I don't paint very many blades but when I tried dipping them in the fluid bed, I would get paint collecting along the edges in heavier amounts and was unable to control this from happening. So I got the airbrush from CSI for shooting powder paint. This gave me a very even coat of paint on the blade thus eliminating my problem. If you want glitter on the blade then mix it in with the clear for a final coat. The airbrush also handles glitter through it with no problems. Thanks for the invite, it is open at this end as well. George Reeves H&P Tackle Wlch, OK

Cadman, a light coat of talc is used on the spin cast silicone molds regularly to assist the flow of the lead. I have experienced problems powder coating not adhering if the talc got too heavy. Just something I have to be aware of when powdering a mold. I think when the lead is preheated before powder painting, the heat pretty much disintegrates the talc altogether. I never thought of using talc on an aluminum mold. Thanks B&D, that's a great idea. Good example of thinking outside of your comfort zone. George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK

Cal, here is the method I use, not sure if it is correct or the easiest, but it works for me. Once I have a spinnerbait powder coated I will airbrush on the accent colors with Createx. Be careful not to touch the painted Createx with anything cause you will remove it. I hang in the oven, setting on lowest which is 150 with door cracked open. Leave them for about an hour or until I remember to take them out. This is to heat set the Createx and remove all the moisture from it. I then heat with a heat gun and dip in powder clear with glitter if desired. Then I bake them at 340 for 10 minutes to cure all the powder paint. The clear powder seals the acrylic Createx and it comes out pretty sharp looking. For added gloss and sealer, I will often dip the bait in clear lacquer which gives it a higher gloss yet. Again, this is just my crazy way of getting it done and I have been very pleased with the results. Good luck with any direction you choose to go. George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK

Same here. I use propane to preheat and a regular kitchen oven (in the shop not the kitchen) to bake and cure. The thermometer is important to determine temperature as each color has a different setting to cure at. Cadman gave you all the steps to do the job, the tools are your preference. You must have one tough thumb using a cigarette lighter - ouch! Good luck on your choices.

Jason, Merry Christmas and Santa was good to you. I have the regular Dremel, several years old and am not familiar with the Stylus. I have one recommendation for you though. I have found that holding the tool itself was somewhat cumbersome and lacked control, would skip alot. I got the flexible shaft and what a difference with this attachment. Much more comfortable and now have probably 90% control over the tool with way less skips of the bit. It is probably just me, but with a tool screaming at those high RPM's, I felt I needed better control and better results and that is what the flexible shaft has provided. Give it a try, not that expensive and well worth the cost.

Cadman, easier said than done! What I do is note where the point of the hook is located on the mold before I close it and make sure this is where it is located for each pour. On many molds there is some writing stamped into this area and I will use it as a reference point. If none, I make a little scratch in the mold surface to use as reference. Another thing I will do to hold the wireform and the hook steady while closing the mold is I take just a dab of clay and put it in the groove for the wire and same in the groove for the hook. This helps keep them from moving when the mold is being closed. Also if the mold recommends say to use .035 wire, and you use that size, it will flop all over the place instead of being held tightly in place. The dab of clay eliminates this movement as well. And finally, the last thing I did to insure consistency is I made a silicone mold for my spin casting operation so that I don't have to mess with hand pouring the darned thing.

When I started pouring this mold, I would get everything but the very tip of the nose. Very frustrating, so I too put a groove at this spot and eliminated the problem. To answer your question on location of the hook/wire connection, I place it in the very thickest part of the body. I don't have one here in front of me, but that would be just behind the gills if I remember. This bait is one of Do-It's very detailed molds, I loose most of that fine detail once it is powder painted. Anyone else share this problem?

Your work shop will be your refuge so you want to make it as comfortable as possible yet efficient for the work you will be doing. I would definitely agree with RangerZ as to the height of your bench, it is important that you are comfortable at this space, your productivity will increase. Another couple of huge items that I considered in mine were: Ventilation for both lead melting and painting. Lighting - something I can't have enough of. Climate control, heat for winter and A/C for summer. You will probably change things many times as you find just the right place for everything as you perform your different operations. Good Luck George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK

I believe you are letting your heat source heat either the wireform or the hook or both. The heat then transfers to the center of the bait causing your problem. Are you using a propane torch or heat gun? You can control the torch better because you can see the flame. Try not to let the flame hit the wire or the hook, only the lead body. Bathe the lead body in the flame by rotating it steadily till you reach your desired temperature, then dip. As hard as you try, you will occasionally still loosen one. Hope that was some help. George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK

Just got a Sale Catalog from Bass Pro and guess what? Gambler has a chatterbait, calls it a swimblade jig, on sale for $4.49 (reg. $4.99). Only comes in 3/8 oz. and 6 colors. Don't take long does it? George Reeves H&P Tackle Welch, OK