badfish03

Got a pair just like the saltwater pair only cost me 5.00, need to see if I can find the finer tipped pair. I found out I have one of the major distributors of pliers for the region in town with me. Who would have thunk it. Robert

THANKS MAN thats what I needed. Robert Just cant say enough good things about this bunch!

Anyone ever raised fathead minnows or golden shiners on a small scale? Can you tell me water requirements and light requirements. Thinking about raising a few pounds but trying to find out if the tanks I have are going to suffice. Robert

Anyone have any coffin lip stencils they would be willing to share? Or can you tell me what the best length to width ratio for these are. Thanks Robert

Dont know if this will work for sure or not but they make a polishing compound for buffing rocks to a high sheen after tumbling them. It comes in varying sizes diamond dust in the 1 micron or smaller range should work well. Wet it, put it on a buffing wheel on a dremel drill and go to town on the lip. It will either white it out or polish it till it glows. Can usually be found online or at a local rock shop that carries lapidary supplies. Robert

I've got an old one around here somewhere that must have been used for musky at one time. Its wood and is about 5-6 inches long. So it can be done Robert

Another very economical rod is the Bass Pro Shops Power Plus Trophy Class rods. They arent pretty or fancy but you wouldnt expect much for 20 bucks. They have enough give in the tip area that you cut down on ripping the bait out of the fishes mouth and they come in both spinning and casting models from 6'6" tp 7'6" the spinning model handle 1/2-2 oz, the casting models 1-4 oz. The Catmaxx rods arent too bad either but have a stiffer tip section. I've been playing with these for only a short while so take my advice with a big grain of salt Robert

Okay about lip design and performance I need to know if I am on the right track here. Now I know that this also has to do with body shape, size, and width and please correct me if I have made wrong assumptions. Depth is increased on all types of lips by the angle of the lip and the distance of the line tie from the tip of the lip. The larger the bill and the shallower the angle, relative to the horizontal centerline, the deeper the bait dives. Line ties closer to the baits body increase the potential for maximum diving capacity, the closer to the end of the lip the shallower the diving potential. Round lips cause a wide wobble and tend to cause the baits tail to swing back and forth. This is increased by adding to the width and the length. Square lips cause a tighter side to side motion and less tail swing. They are also exceptional for pulling through brush. What are the benefits of coffin lips? a cross between the two? Does the thickness of the lips have any major effect on a baits diving ability other than weight? Are there any set rules for lip width relative to a baits width? Or lip size and angle for desired depth of dive? Robert

Its basic fly tying. Go to http://www.flyanglersonline.com/ into the fly tying section, and then check out beginning fly tying it will give you the basics to tie just about anything on a hook. Your gonna need a tying vise or something to hold the jig steady while you wind the thread around the shank. You will need a fly tying bobbin. And you will need a good quality thread to tie with. Robert

I got a cheap pair I picke dup locally that I am really unhappy with. Anyone have suggestions on a good quality set they are happy with and where they got them from. THNX Robert

It will cut way back on thrown baits. My Dad taught me to add them and get rid of the standard hooks right away. Robert In fact got a bunch of old Zaras on ebay the other day that I gotta do this with. Robert

This might also help but you probably already know about it. http://www.luresonline.com.au/ Might give you someone more regional to talk to about materials you need. Robert

Well before anyone else says it This site has a great search feature and t5hese questions have just come up recently I know because I asked them Anyway here are some of the threads http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=5038 http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=5056 Theres tons more on this site have fun Robert

Go with a clear 20 minute set time epoxy, most of the 5 minute varieties yellow with exposure to the sun or age. Also 5 minutes is not enough time to work with alot of the time. No matter what you decide to use once you have a couple done test them in a window or outside in full sun. Let them sit for a day or two and see how much they yellow or whether they stay crystal clear. Robert

Have you tried the Pro-soft glue advertized on this site. From what little I have used it (won a bottle in a auction recently) it seems to work as well as they say. Robert