CHUCKV309

I have never had a problem of oily e-tex. But I do something different than what I have read so far here. I put a couple drops of denatured (sp) alcohol in my batch of e-tex. This thins the mix a little more. You might want to try this and see if it removes the oily residue. Just a thought. Oh yeah, my cure time is about 24 hours and I only mix in small batches. Just enought to cover 20 -30 jig and spinnerbait heads. Hope you find a cure (no pun intended). Chuck

Rosey's Powder Coats sells in 1 lb and up at a descent price. Chuck

Were you able to get the colors close, or did you use it as a color break? How far up did you go? 1/2, 1/4 or where? How much salt to a cup of plastic?

I was wondering if there are different kinds of powder coats, or are they pretty much the same? I use mostly Pro-Tec, but I was looking to buy some colors in bulk. I see Rosey sells by the pound, and was wondering if their powder works the same? If not, where is a good place to buy it by the pound? Thanks, Chuck

I tried that too. They poor fine when empty. To pre-heat my molds, I set them right on top of the pot and flip a few times to make sure both sides get hot. It was so hot, the wood handles almost burned me. Chuck

Yeah, it is a bottom pour pot, and the lead is as hot as it can get it. The lead is not a hard lead (wheel weights), it is a softer pure lead. I've tried tilting a little, but not that much. I'll have to try that and slow the flow a little. Chuck

I just got the Do-It mold of the Sea Horse jig. The problem I am having is that I cannot get the 1/4 and 3/8 oz jigs to pour. It always stops just past the head. I am using the listed hooks for it and everything is very hot. I have even enlarged the air bleed path and added another. I've done so much altering to the the mold to get it to pour that I don't think Do-It will take it back. Any suggestions? Thanks, Chuck

I've poured it with salt and flake. Just heat the mold first, then they pour just fine.

I poured some different baits with some fresh ground "French Roast" beans. I put some grounds (Tablespoon in half cup) in the baits, but in a couple of days the smell in the plastic was gone:cry: . I put some of the grounds in some panty hose and have been soaking it in worm oil for a week. It is smelling pretty strong, but I wanted my plastic to keep the smell longer.

Strike King used to have some. They all glowed green, but you could get different colored strands. Don't know if they are still available.

You can buy them (perfect skirts) at dick's, gander mountain, and bass pro. They come in 2 packs for between $2-3.

I got the one that takes both hook styles. Make sure if you want to use the flat eye hooks that you use the Mustad 32798 hooks it calls for. The heavier Mustad hooks don't fit without modifiying the mold. I don't know about the other brands. As far as pouring without the weedguard, you can take a weedguard and cut it to about 1/2" and stick in the mold till the end is just flush with the head. It will pour the head with no hole or weedguard. The weedguard will last for MANY pours. You can also do it with a base pin, but it is a little trickier to get the exact length and shape to match the head. Chuck

For those of you that tweak your "chatters", which side of the blade do you place the reflective tapes? Leading, trailing, or both? Thanks. Chuck

What weight head did you use? I made some with the standard pro blades and 1/2 oz head and they were too light for those bigger blades unless you go EXTREMLY slow. Maybe the turbos help with that. Chuck

Be careful with the style of flat eye hooks you use. I ordered the heavy wire Mustad 32796 because Barlows listed it as an alternate hook. It doesn't work unless you want to modify the mold. The distance from the eye to the bend is different, so it doesn't fit. You have to use the Mustad 32798 regular wire flat eye hook. I don't know about the other brands. According to Do-it the mold is designed to use the Mustad hooks.

Thanks guys. I knew there were some primary colors to mix, but wasn't sure which. I'll give it a try. Chuck

I need to make a custom color and I was never in art class, so I don't know the best way to make it. I need a medium to dark brown that is opaque. Createx does not offer it, so I need to mix it. I know I will have to play with the amounts, but what colors should I use? Thanks, Chuck

Menards has it also.

Don't forget basspro.com and cabelas.com depending on what components you are looking for.

After I looked a little closer last night, it looks like the wire somehow repelled the lead. There is a nice circular hole all around the wire, so I think Vodkaman might be on to a problem with that portion of wire. The lead is the same, and I always pull by the sprue, so I don't think that is the problem.

Last night, I was poring some 3/8 and 1/2 oz Ultra Minnow spinner baits. They came out great, so I thought. It was the first time I poured them using a ladel; I usually just use the spout on my pot. The lead was hot, ladel was hot (kept it in the lead), and the mold was hot. They poured perfectly. All the detail and complete. The problem is the wire is loose in the head. It can pivot back and forth. I know it can't come out because I crimped the wire tight around the hook eye, but why is it loose? Luckily it was only 4 of the 8 that I poured, but unfortunately I didn't find out until after I was painting them. The wire came from a coil of wire I bought from Stamina and I had used it a couple of days earlier with no problems. Any ideas would be appreciated.

What oil do u guys use on your hinges? If got a couple that are getting a little stiff. Thanks

Here-n-gone. It's here one second and gone the next.

I have not purchased a 5 gallon bucket yet, but there is a mixer at Menard's that is designed for reaching the bottom of five gallon buckets. I think it is actually in with the drywall supplies and is designed to mix "mud" without adding air bubbles. It is made out of alluminum, so it will last forever and it costs less than $10. Sorry, no picture.

I poured my very first baits the other night with the same kit you got. I experienced the same problems you did when I let my temperature get too cool. As soon as I would get the temp back up to around 325, they poured very easy again. A neat toy I got after reading on here was a digital laser non-contact thermometer ($49 at Harbor Freight). You can check the temp in a second, and you don't have the mess of putting it in and taking it out which is going to cool your plastic also. Another thing I found to keep your plastic hot, was to set the cup down on a cloth type pot holder to insulate it. The other hard types will remove heat. Hope this helps.