Oncorhynchus_tshawytscha

Okay, for those of us in the South-Eastern Washington area, there is another type of drafting pen that is pretty much the same thing. Made by Staedtler, it's called a "Pigment Liner". The Walla Walla College Store carries them down to size .01 mm, and I think even smaller. Brock

This is just my two cents (I haven't even used E-Tex yet, since I would have to go to RiverMan's dusty little town to get it :grin: ), but wouldn't the hardener possibly be a bad thing? I mean, if you get something too hard (excluding diamonds, etc. . .), doesn't it become brittle? I was just thought of something . . . ah, here it is. At http://lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html (on the left bar, click Modifications then the bottom picture) they have a modification to a Shallow Invader from Musky Innovations. Would something like that work? I know it looks kinda weird/ugly, but I think it would keep the hooks away from the overcoat, wouldn't it? Brock (P. S., what the devil are you all talking about when you say you "T" your baits? I've never heard of the term, so I doubt I've been doing it.)

First off Chad, you have a really sweet looking bait there. I have been making some Grandma style baits using the stencils from Luremaking 101, and since the author didn't specify where or if there needed to be any weight, I just started adding lead dots until it worked the way I wanted. I then proceeded to weigh all the dots I used, then drilled a hole and added that much weight. I tried adding the lead holes right on the CG, but it worked better for me when placed behind the lip, and another behind the first hook hanger (splitting the total weight between two points). It tracks somewhat better now, but I'm still working on it. Hope that helps, and maybe some of the more knowledgeable luremakers on this site will be able to help us newbies Brock

wsswesty, Thanks a ton for your mini-tutorial. I think it's really going to help. One question though, where do you get the Polytranpar Transparent paint? Thanks, Brock

Hey everyone, I'm just wondering what paint colors you use when painting your rainbow colored wooden baits. I've seen some where the base looks to be white, then others with that "trout pink" as what I can only assume is the base. All that I have seen have a dark green (I think ) back, and a lighter colored belly. Basically, I'm just looking for a step by step tutorial of how you artists do it. (The reason I'm asking is that for most of the bass around here, rainbow trout fingerlings are the primary feed, as far as I have seen.) Thanks in advance, Brock

I have gotten all the materials I need to make a mold, except for the foam. With just turning 18 on April 10th, and not having a steady job, I don't have a credit card. My mother doesn't either, so it's kinda hard for me to order the foam. I'll just have to see if I can bribe my uncle into ordering it for me Husky, I printed out your tutorial, and I have just a couple of questions. Would it be possible to use a manufactured lure as a basis for a mold? Would I first have to coat it with epoxy? (I'm thinking of some of my great-grandfather's lures, that are no longer made, and the companies are probably out of business.) On step 7, can you explain a bit better? The picture doesn't really explain all that well. I think that's it, until I have more problems. Brock (P.S. I have been making a Divani's 10" Glider, and will post pics really soon.)

Hey everybody, As I get more into making my own baits, I have started to look at manufactured baits for inspiration. I started looking at my store bought lures, and noticed that most of them are plastic. (Bomber Long A, Heddon Clatter Tad and Magnum Clatter Tad, Luhr-Jensen Speed Trap, Strike-King Diamond Shad, etc.) My question is whether or not we (home lure-maker's) are capable of creating solid or 2-part lure bodies, in the same manner that the big companies do? Would it be possible to use a mold that is designed for foamies, and instead use something like Environmental Technologies Inc.'s Clear Polyester Casting Resin to make something lures that are see though, with holographic or reflective tape embedded somehow? I know I just asked alot of questions, but I'm always interested in new ways of making fish snacks Thanks for your responses, Brock

My mother went to high school with a local cabinent maker, and he let's me raid his scrap barrels, before he starts to use them to heat his workshop. I picked up quite a few pieces, not really knowing what they were. Well, I got to working with this really rich, brown colored wood. Turns out that it is black walnut; it was a pain in the butt to sand and shape, but boy, does it ever look nice when it's sealed! I have almost finished 3 of them, and I don't think they are going to work properly. I weighted them like I would eastern red ceder, and now they sink like rocks But I still have 2 that I haven't weighted or sealed yet, so there may still be hope! Brock

Robzilla, I have to agree with Windknot; the reverse bullet head style will flair the hair alot more. Or go with Bob Popovics Hollow Fleyes style of tying. You can find it in the February 2005 issue of Fly Fisherman (www.flyfisherman.com). The magnum hair stacker is nice, but have switched to synthetics, and taperizing scissors. I like Ultra Hair, Supreme Hair, and Strung Fuzzy Fiber. The last two are made by Hedron Inc. out of Stillwater MN. Hope that helps, Brock(current flytying freak)

Actually, most rulers have a metric side to them, so you could just start to use it. I have had to use the metric system because of the science classes that I have taken, and I find that the measurement system based on 10 is alot easier to work with, once you get used to it. I actually didn't even know about that site, but I will definately be spending some quality time there with the stencils they have Brock

Well, I didn't think anyone would answer me, so I went ahead and tried. And it actually worked! Now I just need to figure out if I need it thicker, and how many dips it's going to take for my cedar and 2x4 lures. One other question, does this work as a replacement for the first coat of Etex or Devcon 2-Ton to seal muskie and pike lures? And do I need to use Kilz 2 after I'm done with the plastic dip? Thanks for answering all of my questions, and special thanks to Tally and Husky for sharing this, and taking the time to make a tutorial. Next up on my projects list: Making a Bondo mold! Brock

Jed, It looks super nice. You must finally be feeling better if you are able to paint that well. I have got to drive south and pick your brain for a bit. Brock

What size is that bait? and how much does it weigh? It looks really good, if I was a fish I know I would take a bite Brock

All right, I think I got the exact same type as was used in the tutorial. It's made by Klean Strip, and is called Fast Thinner: Primer Grade. The number underneath the Klean Strip logo is GLW719. Okay, I just read the topic entitled "I Read about a plastic sealer..." that was posted by Husky. The new thinner I got says it "contains Alcohols, Esters, Ketones, Methanol, Petroleum Distallates." I know that methyl alcohol is, or at least I think I do But what the devil is Toulene? I've never even heard/read about it before. So did I get the right stuff, or am I going to have to return it to Shucks Auto Supply? THanks for everyones help with all of my questions, Brock

Tally, I'm not upset about it, and I don't blame you. The thinner I used can be used again on lacquer paints, and I will just go buy the right kind. The tutorial was great otherwise. But I still don't know how many cups I'm going to need for the solution to be correct in the pickle jar. Thanks, Brock