Hoodaddy

Yeah, When I started this crazy hobby thats what I used......just make sure you've got a decent regulator on it and get a water filter. I actually now have a 1 gallon (I think) hard piped with a water filter and regulator with 2 lines terminating right on my spray booth. Don't ask how I came up with that idea

Yeah thats what I use too. A flat artists brush with very soft bristles. Sorry about not telling you about that sooner.....Your MAMA told me how slow you were, I just forgot. That dam parttimers has got me again

Ballast on a CB is used to kept the bait upright in a swimming position opposed to laying on its side. Some cranks and TW's may not need any or very little depending on the type of wood used 9Balsa would need the most). The ballast or weight can vary in where to place it in the bait depending on the style of bait. (jointed / glider etc.) The amount of weight should be enough to get the lure to do what you want it to (slowly sink / suspend / high or low floater) . This is usually determined by adding hardware and hooks to your prototype and sealing bait then adding lead or solder to the belly hook to get your desired action then weigh the lead. You then must determine where on the bait to place it trying to keep it low of center. All these factors are what makes the baits action what you desire. Hopefully this helps and I'm sure there can be more added to this post.

I use a stick that I got out of a carmel apple. It has a larger diameter on one end and of course a smaller one on the other. UUUMMMMM Carmel Apples . Aint no wonder I'm FAT

Predator Are you using the blue painters tape....just curious dont see though where your problem would make much of a difference. I also tape bills on some baits but mostly dont install the lip until after painting....prior to clearing. I just take my time and with DN's there is'nt build up on the lip or very very little. I can see where with Etex or D2 ton there could be. Like it was said pull the tape towards the end of the bill when removing it

Thanks Cuz All that I know about DN's came from you............ well almost everything:lol:

Great ideas Guys . Who says you cant teach an old dog a new trick. This site is great !!!! I'll have to give it a try............just as soon as I wake up from my afternoon nap

Mark I have not had any problems with premature setting in the can because I transfer it to a different container aka wine bottle with a screw on lid. It makes for easy transfer to the shallow mason canning jar that I use for brushing the bait from. When resealing the bottle I just put a small piece of plastic wrap over the top (makes for easy lid removal) and screw the lid back on and keep it in a cool area. I learned this tip from T Bait

Kribman The guys are right. I was basically answering the ??? that you had asked not taking in consideration the fact that this was a "one and only". You should definitley save this one after figuring out the specs and 'SAVING" them in case any changes have to be made. As far as your line tie is concerned.....IMHO the plexiglass bill is more prone to breakage than a polycarbonate aka Lexan bill. Also if I'm not mistaken (since I do not work with a lot of deep divers ) that the line tie should be positioned (for testing at first) slghtly less than halfway between the nose of the bait and the tip or end of the bill. Drill a small hole slightly larger than a doubled wire and twist up your hanger...insert it into your lip pulling it tightly into the hole and bend it across the bottom of the lip towards the bait. Make it long enough to be inserted into the body and be securely epoxied. You may want to make a small hole at the bottom of the lip slot to allow it to go in easier. I hope I explained this well enough for you.

I dont think solvents work very well on water based paints. I understand that these paints are readily available and everyone goes to WM but try Createx or Auto air.... They are fomulated specifically for air brushing and paint particles are smaller so in turn gun does not clog as easily. If you need to cut it try water or Wiindex.

1 part moisture cure urethane....as with any solvent base there is some odor. Set time approx. 4 hrs. Any ??? direct them to Dean....he's da man.

Kribman........I'll try and help you out with all the vast knowlege I can call up from my bowels ( probably White Castles or Crystal Burgers wherever your from ) . I.... at this point would drill and epoxy my ballast ( if you have your desired weight figured out ) and hook hangers in. Then I would then fill any voids around ballast with filler. Then I would seal... then prime......Then paint or foil leaving lip installation for last step. BTW it looks like by the size of the lip you may want to drill and install line tie a little less than half way out the bill. Prior to clearing install the lip. Hopefully this helps some...I'm sure there are others that will chime in if I overlloked anything.

Phil is right about the etex being very user friendly but after using etex for 3 yrs. I switched to Dicknites and the reslts are more than satisfactory and I think the finish is harder than etex . Thats just my opinion though. The DN's can be used with waterbased very easily.....just make sure you heat set ( I use a hairdryer ) to get best results.

rlcam, Just another option.......I always get some clear and paint on hangers and such. I take a small thickness wire wheel on my dremel and clean of the outside real good then take a small finish nail in my fingers and while spinning it clean out any on the inside. Not only does the wheel clean it good it also polishes it.

Same here............Merry Xmas to all ..Have a safe and Happy holiday

RJ, Take a look at the gallery at Deans baits. I'm 99% positive he uses D/N's almost exclusively. I'd tell you to look at mine but all the ones I have posted are E/L cleared.

Another good thing about Dicks is it wont pull away from sharp edges as some clear coats do. Thanks Blackjack that clarifies it for me.

Yeah Jim I had somewhat of the same problem so I wound up just sending Dick an e-mail and he responded quickly with an order form with a discount. I dont know how many baits you do but I only ordered a Quart to try it out and I am totally satisfied. Hope this helps

I would think that any pool supply place would have it. I used to work for one andwe carried it. I dont know where your at but they have stores in St. Louis, Nashville, Cincy,Grand Rapids , Louisville and probably a couple more that I have overlooked. The name is Watsons Pool and Spas. I guess I should charge for advertising now ....Fat Chance

Blackjack When using epoxy under the foil do you have any problems getting a scale texture to roll on it since your using " a skim coat ". I have'nt tried this technique. I like Hazmail use abut 3 coats of prop then sand and foil. I was just wandering.... trying to eliminate a step or at least shorten it.

I have heard all the controversy also on wheel speeds and I figgered I may as well put in my 2 cents. I started with a rotisserie motor from Lowes ( which I did not get for 20 bucks ) and it turned exactly as far as I could tell 6 rpm's. It did'nt last to long so my partner came up with a scrunger motor ( used for taking particles out of machine oil...or something like that on CNC's ) it turns approx. 7-8 rpms and I've had no problem with it for over a year now. One big plus is it is so quiet you cant hardly hear it run. I feel as long as its not too fast and isnt sending all the clear to one end ( I rotate vertically....well my baits do ) it will work fine. Please dont ask name or model # cause it does'nt have any markings at all.

Jimmie, Take Deans advice. Theres no reason to take the chance with Imron when you have a product like Dicknites around. Dean talked me into trying it and I am more than satisfied especially on repaints of plastic baits mostly because of the thinnest of it it wont add a lot of weight to your finished bait and it is extremely durable also. It is also very scratch resistant

LaPala Thanks for the vids. They were cool. Man, I did'nt know my shop was as nice as Lauri's . Just one thing... I always thought that the women over there were tall, blonde and beautiful......... Thanks for busting that bubble. I guess my trip is cancelled now !

Spartacus Ther aint nothing to compare to it when you take that virgin bait out on the lake and you start catching fish on it. It may not be the most perfect paintjob or design but the fish like it. Kinda like watching your baby taking its first steps. Another thing is that not everyone in the world can get their hands on one......then you get a few out there and other folks are wanting them. Maybe that first trip out with it was'nt a fluke after all

Jimmie, As far as the fins go....I don't put them on my baits yet but from everything I have gathered some folks use a template and some do it by brush. I'm sure you have already figured out that they would have to be very lightly misted on possibly w/ transparent paints to give the right effect. With the epoxy ( I presume you are talking about clear coat) on the Strike King shad it would help if we knew what kind of paints you were using for one thing but just for reference Dicknites provides a good thin extremely hard coating that does'nt add as much weight as some clears. This is MHO i'm sure there are others that can add to this Good Luck and by the way Nice Paint job