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Hoodaddy

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Everything posted by Hoodaddy

  1. Good Luck on a speedy recovery Woody. I would'nt want to go into details of all I've seen, but last year a buddy of mine was ripping a 2x4 and ran a power saw across his palm of his left hand. Hope your doing a lot better than him......at least his feeling is coming back.
  2. We foil alot of baits in year...it seems like they're real popular around here. We have found that paint adhesion and just the general look of the epoxy over foil is a lot cleaner and nicer looking than painting over or on the foil. The other plus is if you make a mistake painting its easy to clean up and re-paint.....and yes the pattern shows nicely.
  3. Very Nice. Great lines and detail. I especially like the large eyes. I should look great when finished.
  4. You're absolutely correct....those guys deserve the credit. I know John knows what the hell he's talking about and is a master craftsman in his own right. WAY TO GO GUYS !!!!!
  5. Jed Depending on how many you want we could be intersted.Send me an e-mail.stalkerlures@netzero.com
  6. HAIL YEAH !!! ........Nows when you stick your chest out and grin REAL BIG!!!!! Yeah thats it.
  7. Welcome James; If you cant find what you're looking for here I dont know what to tell you.I thought I knew something when I joined up but things have changed drastically for me and inspiration is something these guys give you right off the bat.....Now if I can learn to paint like Blades I'll have 'er licked.Feel free to just ask.. On some of your baits you find that are really mossy and grimy try some rubbing alcohol if you have'nt already.Works for me.There you got your 1st tip....Have Fun
  8. Plastic coat system works GREAT!!!I have tried other things and I wont go back.I also had the same problem...trying to shortcut...DONT!! The guys are dead on about the virgin laquer thinner.You can p/up a gallon at Auto Zone cheap.In the paint section.
  9. Get away from the KILZ and try priming with Krylon white primer.Dont sand between coats,its not necessary.Allow a few minutes between coats or flash them a little if it makes you more comfortable but you dont have to.Before clearing give sufficient time to dry. You should'nt have any problems.If your not happy with the job just re-prime and start over before clearing.If you're worried about sealing read the post below on plastic cote....Good painting
  10. Thanks guys..I will give it a few more tries and also try moving the line tie out a little further.I've fortunately not run into this problem before and I have 6 different models.I guess my luck ran out.I'll post when I finally get it right.
  11. O.K.Guys let me pick your brains.I have been working on a new prototype like a Norman Middle N and no matter what I've tried I cant get the darn thing to run.It will run and hunt a little then just rolls up on its side after a couple of feet.I've tried changing weight and placement,line tie out on bill where I want it and nearer body.I did'nt want to change bill angle a lot but before I do I wanted to ask.I've been doing other fat bodies in 2 sizes and lots of flats and no problems at all.How bout some suggestions...Thanks
  12. Hoodaddy

    badger 250

    Not familiar with the Badger 250 but if its anything like the Anthem that I have it will spray fine with Createx although you may have to thin pearls and metallics.I understand that a gravity fed brush is a lot better.As far as Propel goes...my experience is its way to expensive for no longer than it lasts,Dealing with the cans gets aggravating for me.You'd be much happier with a comp. As far as pressure goes for me it seems the least pressure I can use the more control I have.20 lbs.would be ideal for me.
  13. Ditto on the compressor.If you acn possibly scrimp and save for comp. and decent A/B you'll not be sorry.You're only going to get out whatever you put into it.You'll learn.....LOL I think all of us found out thru trial and error for the most part.You're lucky you found this site when you did.Great bunch of guys and extremely knowledgeable (?? not like my spelling).
  14. Hoodaddy

    wood filler

    The same type of filler mentioned by Jerk is also made for wood.Called Quik Wood. The only place I've seen it is Rockler.Its sandable although hard and no metal shavings.Set time is about the same.BTW they also make it in plastic repair.
  15. There are a few places to get your painting supplies online.You can try Bear Air or Dixie Art or if your looking for Auto Air which is prefered by some try Eastwood. As far as 2T online maybe someone else can help w/that I've always got mine over the counter.
  16. You can thin acrylics with water or Windex.adding a very small MEASURED amount a little at a time until its thinned.Enamels: use a media specifically made by that company.You could use a number of different thinners but I prefer the ones sold for that specific product.JMO With spoons I would probably use an automotive sanding primer with enamel paints and 1 thin coat of E-tex just to protect the paint somewhat.With toothy critters and metal spoons the paint wont last forever anyway.
  17. No you should'nt have any leaks.You could tr tightening the joint a little at a time (be easy because its probably brass and you can strip tthe threads)or get some thread sealant down at the hdwr.
  18. Sorry fellas,especially you Blackjack.I didnt mean to offend anyone by what I said.I was only kidding anyhow but seems I struck a sore spot.Theres not a doubt that they are top of the line if not only for their fish catching abilities their esthetic value.I personally have a couple of local baits that I would'nt part with.
  19. Man...Your baits get mentioned in an article and the price goes thru the roof. Sure wish they were mine,or do I want to be that busy??? LOL
  20. You can use enamels over acrylics or vise versa.You cannot use enamels and laquers because you will get a crackle finish like in antiquing.Not sure about acrylics and laquers.The thinners in the Laquer is too hot.I've shot all three but am happiest with acylics.A lot more user freindly.JMHO
  21. I'm by no means an expert on lexan and also much like you do'nt spend a lot of time in Lowes or HD.You may want to check w/ a fabricating shop dealing w/ plastics in your area.They are also terrific places to get scrap Lexan.ERR UHH Samples
  22. Wantsome,Pactra is the Acrylic brand of Testors I referred to in your other post.You may want to thin pearls or metallics to get them to spray easier.Thin a little at a time w/water or windex or similar medium.Pactra has a good selection of pearls and metallics,but if you're looking for natural colors look elsewhere.You may want to try Createx if for no other reason,to avoid the hassle.Just experiment till you find the one that works best for you.
  23. Thanks Guys,Sounds like the Dremel is the way to go.
  24. I hope you did'nt mis-understand me about when I said Testors.I was refering to their acrylics,not enamels although you can use them(lot more clean up).I've tried both and its acrylics for me hands down.JMO
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