millsryno

I believe that Del makes the color Blue Fleck. From what I remember, it was spot on. Just add that to your plastic with lots of blue flake and you are set.

I'd definately get a microwave and pyrex. You can get a microwave at wal-mart, a 1 cup pyrex and a 2 cup pyrex for under $50. It will cook faster, more evenly, easier with less burning. In my opinion it is the best way to go, especially for a new person. The salt you have in there probably isn't going to affect your pours because it is very minimal. Just keep in mind, however, that you should have aprox. 1/2 the amount of softener in there as your salt. So if you ever increase your salt content, you will need to add softener. Stabilizer is not needed when using a microwave. From the sounds of it, you are not pouring exactly down the center of the hole for the mold. Make sure you get it exactly down the middle.

Yup, looks like the frydaddy post is gone. Bummer, it was full of good info, too. There is a thermostat on the bottom side, it is a screw. I used 3/8 inch fittings for the pot, so you need a bit and die to match that. Everythign was purchased from Home Depot, except the die which I had to go buy from Ace Hardware. I don't know where I put my pics, I'll see if I can find them. I use to use a presto pot, but it was too big. The fry daddy is perfect, just got to set it up though.

Just use three 1 cup pyrex dishes. One for each color. You can cook them all at the exact same time. Then just turn your microwave to low and leave it running while you use one color (the other two are in the microwave). My microwave has a dial and at the low setting it keeps it perfectly warm and does not cook it at all. If I notice, through use, that it needs a little more heat, I just turn up the dial a little.

I love my fry daddy and since I wrote up how to make it, I have had several people tell me that have 6+ of them now :-). I don't use the elbow on it any more, though. Is that post still around or was it lost?? If you want to pour a lot of plastic, it is a good thing to have. If you aren't pouring a couple hundred baits at a time, it's probably not worth it.

Hey Guys, Anybody selling fully round body, from aluminum molds, single tail and double tail grubs? Please contact me if you are. Thanks!

I like Del's Light Watermelon also, but it is a little weak in potency.

I don't like to use fluorocarbon for crankbaits or spinnerbaits. I like to use Berkley XT for them instead. It has better abrasion resistance, has better stretch which helps with hook sets and is cheaper. I do not base this decision on price, either. Berkley XT is just a better choice in my opinion for these applications. I may try P-Line CXX next as i have heard greatthings about this line for these applications as well. For all of my worming applications I use fluorocarbon. P-Line 100% fluorocarbon is OK and is readily available. I like Sugoi much better, though. I just got some new Daiwa Steez fluorocarbon for X-Mas that I can't wait to try. Has anybody tried this yet? I hear that is has not been released yet. I do not like Berkley vanish at all.

It really depends on how much plastic you are cooking at a time and how comfotable you are with your microwave. I tend to do 2 cups at a time and do my initial heating for 3 minutes, then stir, then another minute, then stir, then another minute. If you start out by doing it every 30 seconds you will learn how the plastic transforms much better. Just remember, it is going to get real thick and gooey then it will thin back down to a very pourable state. You need to heat it until it gets thin again. the amount of time it takes really depends on the strength of your microwave and the amount of plastic you are cooking. Yup, you can oil them up while your plastic is cooking. I only use aluminum, so not sure how often you need to oil them. I like to cook my plastic with the dye and salt in it. If you are using fluorescent colors, they have to be cooked with the plastic, so might as well just always do it to make a good habit of it. Your salt will contain some moisture so I like to cook it with my plastic to let the bubbles cook out. Also, if you add your salt after you cook, it is much harder to stir in and avoid clumps. Always add glitter after plastic is cooked, right before you pour. Glitter is sensitive and will bleed if cooked too much. The cookbook is your best bet for recipes. There are 100s of them in there. You will get a feel for the plastic. It will have a certain runny-ness that is easy to handle and pour with. As it cools, it thickens up and you will begin to mess up more of your worms. This is the time to put it back into the microwave for a short 12-30 second burst of heat (depending on how much plastic you have in yoru pyrex). If it doesn't pour like syrup would, it may need a reheat. Tips for legs and tails....practice, practice, practice. Just pull the worms out of the molds after they cool. You will quickly learn how long it takes for them to cool after a few repititions. I like to lay mine out on a baking pan in worm oil. I do not like to put mine in water as I think it lends itself to color fading. No problem Andy. Just don't forget to post information that you learn for other newbies. So many people are trying to get into this hobby and have a lot of the same questions you have. It's nice seeing some of the new guys jumping in there and helping out others.

My suggestion is to ditch the pan, get a pyrex cup and a cheap Wal-mart microwave. It will cook your plastic faster and easier. Your total cost for a pyrex and microwave is probably $45. Also, the plastic will start in a milk color and consistancy, during cooking it will thicken up to a thick gel, then it will turn to a clear liquid the consistancy of a thick pancake syrup. Try to cook it without any colrant in it to watch it go through the phases. You can add colorant after it cooks. Bubble may be caused from not cooking it enough, after it goes through the gel phase and thins out, the bubbles will cook out. I try not to mix during this gel phase as it will likely trap more bubbles. I try to stir before and after it gels. Also, if you are using a wooden stir stick, it will likely add bubbles. Use a spoon or a knife or something metal. Hope that helps. Keep at it and you will master it in no time.

jmik makes those skirts and I have heard only positives about them. I think his site shows how to attached them in a video.

Can anybody get that FTP link to work? Doesn't work for me....

Found it in Edit Options in Profile.

OK, I can't figure out how to make subscriptions automatically turn off instead of manually having to do it for every thread. Anybody know how? It fills up my email box. I don't want any subscriptions, I check here every day anyway.

I was going nucking futs without my favorite site! Thanks for the hard work Red.

I've heard of guys burning themselves very badly using those. I'd avoid them.

Hey gang, I'm looking for a tube dipper to supply me with various sizes of tubes. They will be sold on a website that specializes in hand poured worms. If you do tubes, please contact me. Thanks, Ryan

Del, is that mold going to be for sale? 2 piece? Price? Size?

Strike King 3X?

Hi Eric, I have Del's stick and T-Stick. The regular stick has a different action more like a senko. I decided to go with Del's simply for the fact that I ordered other stuff from him and it was just easier to do it that way. I have noticed that Bob's stick and Del's stick are similar. Del's has a little bit, teeny more of a recessed egg sack than Bobs that I personally like. If you are looking for a "family" of different sizes, it is my opinion that Bob's are more consistant looking from size to size.

beautiful

The auction ended, it did not sell. His assessed value was far fetched, IMHO. Here are the search words I use for molds: fishing mold aluminum mold worm mold

I cannot for the life of me figure out how to look at just the soft plastic bait forum... Anybody help??