I was born and raised in Green Bay, bleed green and gold on Sunday's and now living in Minnesota. When ever my Viking friend's get on me about the Packers, I just hold up my bare hand and show them my Viking Superbowl ring!!!!!
I made an insert out of thin sheet metal for Bob's 4" swimbait. First trace the out line of the bait and transfer it to the metal and leave a "tail" or "handle" long enough to reach the bottom of the mold. Tape the "tail" to the mold and make sure your insert is straight when you close up the mold. if you try to remove the insert and it tears up the bait do one of two things, dip the bait in clear plastic before removing the insert or reshape the insert until you can remove it with out tearing.
I never tried it but I would think without a good sealer it would start to flake (powder) apart. Try bondo, gives good detail and lasts for about 50 good pours. Just have to put up with a little shrinkage.
The Dixi Art web page has good pdf file on reducing and applying Auto Air paint. Click on the Createx link and do some surfing to find it. I'll try to post the link.
http://www.dixieart.com/AutoAir_Application_Guide.pdf
I just picked up a dual action bottom feed brush at Harbor Freight for under $20, comes with everything except the hose. Thats another $10. It wont do detail work but it beats my old single action for general painting.
Thanks for the replies, the reason I asked is that a local art store is blowing out all there Createx paints at half price so I dont want to stock up on stuff I won't use.
I started in the basement with a $15 home Depot bathroom fan that vented to the outside. My wife still complained about the smell so I built a 30x36 pole shed and partitioned 15' of it for a shop. Still use the same fan. Now she complaines that I spend to much time in my shop!!!
Just wondering what type of paint most of you folks like to use. Transparent or opaque? I favor the transparent for foil baits but what about painting over a white base coat?
Before I started using powder paint I used to paint with rattle cans. Just stick the jig into a piece of cardboard so just the head is showing and use a straw to cover the weedgaurd. Appliance enamel paint worked the best. Alot of other paint would react with plastic.
I use Elmers carpenter glue thinned with 50% water. Two or three thin coats, place it in front of a fan and your pouring in about a half hour instead of waiting 24 hours for your epoxy to set up.
PVC glue is made up off three main ingrediants (sp?), MEK, acetone and THF. The PVC primer is mostly MEK. I tried it with just the PVC glue and no thinner and it worked but was just a little thick for my taste
Did a little tinkering tonight in the ol' garage and came up with a way to paint soft plastic. I used clear PVC cement, thinned with a little acetone and MEK and added hi lite powder. It dries instantly and you can't rub it off. I also tried regular colorant and powder paint for jigs. The worm colorant/ powder paint worked but would rub off with a little effort. Maybe with all the awesome tallent on this board we can come up with a few other additives that might work and expand the color combo's. With a little more thinner it could be shot thru an airbrush?
I'd love to post some pic's but I have a cheap camera that won't take good close ups. I might have to try the funnel method for swirls next. That looks like it wont waste as much colorant. Now, how do you hold a funnel and two pouring cups all at the same time ?
Just went out to the garage and tried to do a few swirls. Here's what I did and it worked. Pour small amounts! 1 or two ounces at a time. Start with a base color and mix it good. Then add 10 drops of your swirl color in a circle around the cup. Do not mix! Just pour. If you have to much plastic in the cup you will pour off the top color and not get any swirl effect. It works but you'll waste alot of your swirl colorant.