rixon529

Four ounces for $4 - True Value hardware. Not too big for not too much.

THIS is what I envision when I think emerald green.

Sorry for the bad link. No, I have not tried this material. Rick

https://www.amazon.com/KEVLAR-CARBON-FIBER-FABRIC-TWILL-WEAVE 12" x39" for $22 +shipping

I would like to wish everyone and their families a Happy Thanksgiving holiday. I am thankful for the kind spirit and generosities of all the TU members who have taken the time to share their knowledge, experience, and advice. TU will always continue to be #1 because of its great members and administrators. Thank you, Tackle Underground! Going forward, may all your troubles be little ones, and may your fish be trophy worthy! Rick

Hello All. I recently noted that the plastic suppliers list sticky formerly pinned in this forum was deleted - presumably during the course of a site upgrade/update. I was asked to resubmit the info and it would be stickied again. (Thanks, Chris.) Here it is. My apologies for any business not listed and also for any errors. I'm sure this is not all-inclusive. It's only what I know of at this time. Sorry I don't have overseas suppliers - just U.S.. Most of the suppliers listed here also sell other soft plastic hobby materials (plastic additives, colorant, glitter, bags, tools, molds, etc.), but they are too numerous to list here, so their URL is included for you to check out what they have to offer. Rick H. SE CT "ships from" location is provided to assist in figuring / estimating shipping costs BUSINESS NAME - URL - BRAND SOLD - SHIPS FROM ALUMILITE - alumilite.com - THEIRS (ALUMISOL) - KALAMAZOO, MI 49007 BAITJUNKY'S - shopbaitjunkys.com - CALHOUN'S - LAWRENCEVILLE, GA 30046 BARLOW'S - barlowstackle.com - M-F - RICHARDSON, TX 75080 BASSTACKLE - basstackle.com - M-F - PHOENIX, AZ 85027 BEAR'S BAITS - bearsbaits.com - CALHOUN'S - PONCHATOULA, LA 70454 CALHOUN'S - calhounplastics.com - THEIRS (CALHOUN'S) - CALHOUN, GA 30701 CHEMIONICS - chemionics.com - THEIRS (CHEMIONICS) - TALMADGE, OH 44278 DO-IT - store.do-itmolds.com - THEIRS (ESSENTIAL) - DENVER, IA 50622 JACOB'S BAITS - jacobsbaits.com - M-F - TROY, OH 45343 JANN'S - jannsnetcraft.com - LURECRAFT - MAUMEE, OH 43437 LURECRAFT - lurecraft.com - THEIRS (LC) - ORLAND, IN 46776 LUREPARTS ONLINE - lurepartsonline.com - M-F / ESSENTIAL / LC - SPRINGFIELD, IL 62704 LUREWORKS (aka I SPIKE IT) - ispikeit.com - THEIRS - BROOKLET, GA 30415 MAKE LURE - makelure.com - ALUMISOL - KALAMAZOO, MI 49007 M-F - pouryourownworms.com - THEIRS (M-F) - FORT WORTH, TX 76117 OZARK TACKLE - ozarktackle.com - UNKNOWN - PEVELY, MO 63070 POLYSOL - polysolpolymers.com - THEIRS (POLYSOL) - FARMINGTON, MO 63640 ZEINER'S - zeiners.com - M-F - WICHITA, KS 67211

And not everyone is "in business". I pour for myself as a hobbyist, so my time is my own invested only for me. I don't have to live by the saying "time is money". I want to keep it relaxing, not a competition to produce max numbers in the shortest possible time. Rick H. SE CT

I've only ever made p.o.p. molds. What brand fiberglass resin do you use or recommend? Your lures always look good in your pics. Thanx. Rick

Hope he don't work himself back into ill health when he resumes business and tries to play "catch up"... Customers are gonna have to cut him some slack and give him time to get back to "normal"...

Which plastisol is the basis of your recipe? Extra strength 500? Extra medium 548? Medium 502? Max flex 536? Thanks. Rick

Bait color pics from Zoom website: https://zoombait.com/colors/sapphire-blue/

Glad to hear from you Mike. It's been quite a while... Hope all is well with you and yours. Rick

BHL: I just visited MF website (haven't been there in a while). Saw the "bounce" plastic but there's no description other than "super float". Were you able to contact them for more info? Rick

Agree with Alsworms. I used to do respirator fit testing for an aviation maintenance and paint shop using 3M respirators and filters. First you need to get the right size for your face (sm/med/lg). About 80 to 85% of users take a medium. Second, you need a good seal just like Alsworms said. (Don't be afraid to tighten those headstraps - that's what they're there for.) Beards are a no-no. We also used banana oil and peppermint oil to test the seal. If you could smell it, there wasn't a good seal. Using your hands to cover the air inlets without cartridges, exhale. This should cause the air to escape the mask around your face. Next, still covering the air inlets, try to inhale. The mask should remain firmly in place on your face and you should not be able to inhale or feel any air enter around the edge of the mask. This means a good seal has been achieved. Third, a mask should be stored in a recloseable ziploc bag with as much air removed from the bag as possible before closing off. Filter cartridges don't have a longterm life so if not stored properly they can be useless real quick. Life expectancy is based on the type and density of vapors being filtered out during inhalation. Our paint shop life was 8 to 10 hours. Again - if you can smell what you're using, first ensure there's a good seal, if the seal is not the problem then change the cartridges. We used alcohol wipes to clean and disinfect the inside surfaces that contact the face between uses. This was especially important during those sweaty summer months... The only respirator I have used is 3M model 6200 half facepiece (available thru my local WalMart for $16.65) with an organic vapor/acid gas filter (also WalMart - $8.50 per pair). Rick

Isn't that really the only thing that matters?

Please excuse what may appear to be a stupid question, but why would you want only one side of a bait weighted?

Biggest thing about the full face respirator vs the half mask is the price. They use the same cartridges but the basic mask is, like, 3X as much ($30 half vs $100 full). I assume the effectiveness would be the same in terms of air intake filtration, but the full face version would offer splash protection as well as prevent vapors from irritating your eyes. May be some degree of convenience having one safety item (mask only) vs two (mask and safety glasses or goggles). Rick

Look at your profile - it will include threads you have started and commented on.

www.zornmolds.com

Here's a link to a silicone manufacturer's site and tutorials: https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/ Lots of videos and info. Rick

Located in Hepworth, Ontario: www.luremaking.com/catalogue/catalogue-index/catalogue-items/molds-plastics/colorants.htm www.luremaking.com/catalogue/catalogue-index/catalogue-items/molds-plastics/glitters-softbaits.htm Hope this helps. Rick

M-F turquoise?

Over the years on this forum many have commented that pouring without a respirator resulted in bloody noses, chronic coughing, severe headaches, blurred vision, etc. These health issues were resolved when they started using a respirator during their pouring sessions... Except for skin contact with hot liquid plastisol, in my mind the most serious incident which can occur is the overheating and burning of plastisol. As I understand it, if heated to the point of burning, it will release (among other things) chlorine gas, which can become hydrochloric acid if it comes in contact with moisture. If you inhale chlorine gas, the moisture present in the tissues of your nose, mouth, and lungs is sufficient to cause the reaction which can result in tissue damage and chemical pneumonia. Now, I'm no chemical engineer, but no one will ever be able to convince me that during the normal heating process from room temperature to 300+ degrees, there is not some (no matter how small) chemical breakdown which produces potentially harmful gaseous products that likely will cause health damage over time. Many will say, "I've been doing this for umpty-ump years without using a respirator and there's nothing wrong with me!" To those who can make that statement - more power to them, but I would rather err on the side of caution. Personally, I have enough health issues at 60+ years old that I don't want to risk additional problems. I want to protect whatever good health I may have remaining... Protection of lungs, etc are worth the $30 investment for a respirator. Just as a quick reference, see "How can PVC affect my health?" at https://toxtowm.nlm.nih.gov/text_version/chemicals.php?id=84 All that being said, I personally believe the bottom line is: A RESPIRATOR IS NOT AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY, BUT RATHER PROTECTION FROM POSSIBLE INJURY. THE CHOICE IS YOURS. Just my $0.02... Rick

Porkmeatballs - Take the time to go back a couple years and read every post in this forum. It may sound tedious as hell, but you'll gain a TON of info and probably learn things you haven't even thought about yet. I know I'm a little crazy but I've done it, like, three times. Last time was about three years ago, so its about time I do it again, too. This stuff never gets old to me... Rick