cadman

Sorry I did find some more Carbide Textured black.

PM me your e-mail, I still have some left over.

Ok guys so you will all know now one of my weakneses, which I'm not a "pro at" and that is painted eyes. I always use 2d or 3d stick on eyes whenever possible. When I used to paint eyes, I used acrylic or Testors lacquer paint. Take a finishing nail or a wood dowel and dip it in the paint then dab it on the jig. Do this with a smaller dowel if you want a pupil. On the lacquer paint sometimes it doesn't agree with certain powders as it tends to want to bleed so do a test piece first. With that said that is about all he help I can give you. I am sure there are other guys that will chime in and give some good answers and advice.

The following colors are sold out. Crocus Blue and Carbide black textured. Thanks to all that bought powder paint from me

I don't have a solution for you as mine leaks sometimes as well. It looks like your plunger is not seating itself in the hole. You can empty the lead out of the pot and take a look to see if there is anything stuck around the hole where the plunger sits. I do this about every 2 years where I will empty my pot and steel wool the plunger, plunger hole and pot wall. You can also send it back to Lee and they will take a look at it and tell you if there is something else wrong with it.Other than that all you can do is put a small can under the pot when you're not pouring.

That's a good question. My 1st guess would be to say no. Only reason is that I believe vinyl paint has lacquer thinner in it. I do know that if you leave a powder painted jig in lacquer thinner the paint will soften and will wrinkle. However if the vapors flash off really quickly then it wouldn't be a problem. Try it out and let us know as I'm curious.

I'm glad it all worked out for you, and only a couple of wasted bad pours. That is excellent news. Also yes those nylon pins are fantastic. I too prior to using them fought many a steel pin. No more. The nylon pins go in easy and come out easy for pouring and they also work just as well for painting.

Schmink, BLT hit it on the head. Even the permanent markers will rub of the slick surface of a powder painted jig. I believe I even baked the marker on and it still came off. You have to clearcoat the jig if you are goig to use markers. Other than that they work just fine.

Harley, Welcome to Tackle Undeground. PM me your e-mail and I will get it out to you.

First of all it's nice to see someone who has read all the info in this forum. Although all questions are answered by someone here, there are no dumb questions. I know speaking for myself it helps to have this kind of knowledge, as I, to this day always learn something new from current and new members. Knowledge and understanding all the ins and outs makes for a safe and pleasent experience. Glad everything went well. Enjoy the hobby and do participate with any new things you've learned with others.

PM sent

BLT, You are correct he has an excellent product right off the shelf.

I would never say that about TJ's cups because I have never used them. What I will tell you is this. Plain and simple all powders don't work with one type of fluid bed media. I have used 50 different manufacturers of powder paint. They are all slightly different and they are all slightly different based on color. From TGIC polyesters to Epoxies to Hybrids to Urethanes they are all different. The other big factor is humidity. No matter what you do powder paint will absorb some moisture that's just the way it is, unless you live in a humid free environment. The most I can say guys, is do the best with what you have and try your powder with different filters. When you find "The One" that works mark it for that color. However, next time it may not work as well as the last time. This is my experience over the years. Someone may be better at this and give more insight.

Mac, Can't help you with the hooks but here is the info on the http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21047-clinton-2011-annual-tu-meet/page__pid__161911#entry161911 If you read the thread Nathan the second person on the post is sponsoring it. PM him for more info.

I'm still interested in your feedback even if it's 2 months later. Sometimes you stumble on something that is used for one application and it works better on another. I too always am looking for things that are better and less costly. The polyurethane Minwax you use is that water based? How is the longevity in the can when not used for any length of time?

Shawn, A fluid bed will put on a thinner more even coat. If you want to buy one please check out one of our members here. TJ's Tackle. Benjamin has a complete set-up ready to use right out of the box.

Bob, If you are going to do some testing, I would like to see your results. Even if we can not obtain the stuff you use. I'm kind of on the same fence as Smalljaw. I am not a big believer of the UV thing. I know sun and water , hot an cold are brutal on a cars paint or other things that come in contact with the elements. However, I don't buy into all of the data about it being needed for jigs and crankbaits. I lose more jigs than I worry about sun bleaching the paint or it yellowing a topcot. However I do believe that over time the sun will do just that. I guess my point is that if I have to spend $3 more per ounce of powder paint or per ounce of top coat, it is not worth it to me. Just my honest feedback. However I am very curious how your testing will go. Please keep us informed.

You nailed it on the head. I'm surprised you have a problem with red. Usually white is the issue because it is heavier than all the others. You can try making your own cup and using vacuum cleaner bags, allergy pillow cases or brown lunch bags. This may solve your problem and then just use that cup as a dedicated one for red powder.

If you use D2T(Devcon 2 ton) brushed on . If you use E-tex you can dip or brushed on. On the E-tex if you wait about 5 minutes after mixing, it will get thicker and you can then brush it on.

Sly, Exactly what FuzzyGrub said. Way too much paint compounded with too high of a heat for too long, makes the paint want to run. I bake at 325/350 give or take for 15 min. One last thing you could do which I found worked really well is get yourself some new drill bits that fit loosely (but not sloppy) inside the hook eyes. When you heat your jig and swish it through the paint, immediately push the drill bit with the shank end into the hook eye and out the other side. You will see a lot more powder paint come out and stick to the flat end of the drill bit. This cleans out eyes really well. Let us know how you do.

Just out of curiosity why don't you want to use powder paint. There is no muss or fuss? Anyway I guess you can use vinyl paint, however the smell is really bad. I stopped using it because I got really bad headaches and I would recommend a respirator. Also I guess you can dip the heads in testors model paint. I've never done that so I can't tell you how the durability is. Finally you can dip jigs in blade dip and ink, but color selection is minimal and you would have to clearcoat the jigs to keep the colors from washing out. Maybe others will post here and give you some ideas.

Marty, e-mail sent.

E-mail sent

fishnbound, Like Quickdraw said you should put a white basecoat on all bright colors like, ylw chart, grn chart, blaze org and hot pink. The colors come out much brighter and you use less of the second color.