cadman

David, E-mail sent.

Dave, From Long Last Lures. Do you want a DXF file?

Vodkaman, I will contact you in a couple of days. Take a look at this and we will try to help the rest here with the smalll version.

Ok Guys, I have some info and help for you. Attached is a PDF of the large blade. The small blade is not done yet. I can give you a .DXF file which you can take to any laser or waterjet shop and they can cut the profile for you. This profile will work for all materials. Cold Rolled Steel, brass, alum., stainless steel, copper,and any other material that if you pour lead over it will not melt. Now here are the parameters. This part was measured with calipers, micrometer, pin gages and any other inspection instruments I could find to make it like the original. With that said if you use the .DXF you must do the following. #1 Make sure you have several samples made prior to any production run. I have not had a chance to have these made, checked and fitted in my mold. They should be close. #2 Make sure your parts are deburred before you try to put them into a mold. I will not be held liable if you take these parts and just make them. They have not been made and tested. You have to do this on your own. This is just a cad file to help you guys from paying for cad work nothing else. It's your responsibility to make sure everything is the way you want it I will also look into trying to get some prices for these to see what a ballpark number is for certain materials. Will post later on this. Also as you can see, you can put profiles or your name cut into the baits. You may want a lightening bolt, or a logo in there to promote your business. There are many things that can be done. Naturally the more detail you put into this the more costly it will be. I will keep you guys updated if I find anything more on this and when the smaller version will be ready. Just so you know, the blade thickness on the original is(.032") The plated blade is a little thicker due to the fact that the plating has some thickness to it. The (.032") thickness is available in all of the materials I mentioned above, give or take several thousandths of an inch,. Let me know if you need more help. Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf Large Blade.pdf

Among all the others here. I've learned so much from others and am happy to pass along the knowledge to others that ask. I've been here since 2005 and there is always new information from other guys. Job well done Jerry

BLT, A second runner up to D2T in my opinion is E-Tex. Although you will have to put on several coats, it is easier to apply, and the working time is much longer. However it does go on thinner (unless you let it sit for about 5-10 minute) and it does have a smell. You may want to try a small sample of that and see how you like it. It is also available in quart bottles and you usually can get it for 40% off with a coupon from Michaels. Just a thought.

Vodkaman (Dave), I will PM you later and we'll talk. Maybe we can get this info posted out here for the guys. Thanks........Cadman

Dave I will look into this and get you guys some info. This may take a couple of weeks.

Dave, I have a guy here locally that will lazer the parts for me in cold rolled steel, Alum 6061-T6, copper, brass and stainless steel. On the copper and brass, you are better off going to a guy that has a water jet, as lasers have a problem with the reflection of the laser bouncing off of the shiny materail and onto the lenses and mirrors. So currently my project is on hold. Reason being, is you have to have some sort of file (solids or dxf) so they can import the image into their cutting software, so the laser or water jet has a contour or a path to follow to burn or cut. I have not had a chance to draw these up yet as I'm pretty busy. The drawing part is not the problem, it's trying to copy the profile accurately. Well with out dimensions, it is pretty laborious. I have one profile done. A prototype actually has to be made, to make sure that the part will fit in the mold after it is cut with consistency. Once I have them done and tested I will share the .dxf files with anyone that wants them. I guess you can take an original blank pattern and scan it, but I'm sure you will have to tweak it as nothing is as easy as it seems. Sorry I don't have more for you at this time.

You can also try allergy pillow cases or the spun woven envelopes that are free from the Post Office.

Crymdawg........The bluish, yellow tint you see on top of the lead is from the lead being too hot as Smalljaw stated. If you have a Lee IV pot there is no reason to crank it up all the way and leave it there. It was 40 degrees in my garage yesterday and I was pouring jigs no problem with the knob set at #7. Anything below #6 is too cold. (These are just my recommendations). Steve 187......On fluxing, this is just a step to purify the lead. It will never make it so pure to the point that you will not have to use it regularly. I flux at the beginning of every day I start pouring. Then and only then do I add more if I'm having pouring problems. There is no time interval or time frame when you should flux. If you do it at every start-up and you have no issues pouring all day don't flux again. No need to if everything is going good. To all lead pourers........The main reason many people don't get good pours is heat. You must::::: #1 Have hot lead in your pot. #2 Your molds must be hot, and I mean hot. #3 In winter (especially in winter) keep your hooks warm or hot. Like Smalljaw commented, put the hooks on your pot, or what I do is put them in a black tray and I put a 100 watt incadescent bulb over the tray on the hooks. This will keep them hot. #4 Make blank pours before you put the hooks in your mold, to see if it fills the cavity. #5 Some molds fill better if they are tilted front to back or side to side, close to the spout or some molds with the pot spout seated in the mold sprue hole. The latter works 50% of the time because it is like injecting hot lead int a mold cavity. #6 Use mold release. I have started using this, this past year, and it has solved all my problems with prblematic molds. Finally like with anything, there is trial and error and little tricks you will find that work for you. Write all this down per mold, so next time you pour that mold you have a starting point and adjust from there. One other thing I will comment on is this. As Smalljaw mentioned, lead does pour better in winter, and yes it is because of humidity. I never get bad pours in winter here in IL. When Spring to Summer rolls around, well the annoyances with lead pouring starts here and you just have to deal with things you can not control. Sorry for the rambling but this kind of gives pouring lead 101 in a nutshell...........Good Luck Guys. PS: I'm sure there are some things I forgot to mention.

I have the same problem as BLT and Steve 187. Tire shops and or repair shops will not give me their lead, they have scrap removal at their facilities. I've asked many times and many places and they said plainly no. I buy mine from Roto-Metals on line.

My personal opinion on that is to not do it. It will be of little value, because as soon as you fill the pot with lead the heat from the lead being in the pot will probably burn it off leaving you where you originally started. JMO

Wow, you've been busy. Those really look beautiful. Nice clean thread wraps, and excellent paint job. Thanks for sharing

E-mail sent

Welcome to TU Don, Ar you interested in pouring plastic or lead?

Hawn, Thanks for the Info.

Pitbull, I will agree 100% with 152nd Street. I have the original version of the same tool and I wouldn't be without it. The Naked Bait Skirt Expander looks too gimicky to me. Just my opinion.

My personal opinion from years of doing jigs, is that there is nothing better than http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/21320-eyes-and-clear-coat/

Rookie, That was freakin' hilarious. Only you could come up with something like that.

E-mail sent.

You are correct, usually 60-80 strands. Also I believe the skirt on a mop jig is longer. BTW if you are using flat silicone, how do you like it in the water. Do the strands still stick when you take them out?

If you do have this mold. I would like to know how welll the bigger cavities pour. Please reply only if you have this mold. Thanks in advance

I use powder paint. I dip my jigs in the powde,r as soon as I take it out of the powder I take a clean drill bit and push the shank end (not the cutting end) through the eyelet and pull it out the other side. Works like a charm everytimne.

I definitely use them, and mix them with softer lead. No problem at all. Like mentioned above, take extreme precautions they do hold water in the clips. A dangerous mix if you put them in hot lead.