cadman

Bud, I've had this problem before with my PM's. Anyway I'm going to PM you my e-mail and send me an e-mail and I will help you out. Until I get this problem resolved.......................Thanks

Bud, I don't have a source for you on assembled blades and split rings. For years I've been using butt rings on pony head jigs and tail spinners, and you can't beat them. They are easy to put on and a lot less cheaper in cost than split rings. Trust me unless you are putting these on magnum spinnerbaits these things will never let go. If you want a couple of samples PM me and we can discuss it further.

Mark turn down the air until you get what looks like boiling water or in our case boiling powder. That should do it for you.

e-mail sent with fluid bed instructions.

Patrick, The more expensive heat guns have multi-heat settings. I have (4) Wagner Model HT-3500 Heat Guns one I have been using for 4 years still good as new and (3) spares. You never know when I can get the wife involved Wagner is not the only brand out there, there are others and I'm sure they work well. Others will comment shortly. The reason I like the multi-heat heat gun (just my personal opinion) is because I can adjust my heat when I apply 5 or 6 colors on a jig. It is almost impossible to do that if you do not turn the heat down. High heat will burn your other colors and well you'll have a mess. If you are going to only paint 1 or 2 colors on a jig a dual heat gun will work fine for you. Unless you want to experiment.

Bob, I checked the other hooks out and they would work except my customer wants a really thin wire. Your idea has crossed my mind, taking an aberdeen hook and twisting the eye. Although I've done this in the past (in an experiment) by heating the hooks, this is not something I want to do for a 1000 hooks. Also its not recommended to be twisting hooks even if you heat them, as you have to have a good process and know how heat affects steel within the hardening process.

Keith, I'm glad you got this resolved without going to the other extreme solution. I know people have problems and family issues, but going on 2 years is ridiculous. I really have a hard time forgiving and forgetting(just me I guess). Based on what I know, you and many others were getting no return phone calls, no return e-mails, no nothing period. That is just plain wrong and I can't forgive someone who has no concern for others when he is the one with the problem. You just don't up and leave and keep everyone hanging when you want, and come back and think everything will be alright. Sorry to vent but I just had to. Happy pouring and glad your molds are up to par at least the quality hasn't gone down.

Patrick, This is what I wear when I pour, not to say that you have to do as well. Summer and Winter. Long sleeve shirt (flannel quilted in winter), buttoned at the wrist, and long pants preferably blue jeans, shoes and socks followed by plastic safety glasses and a face shield. My biggest concern more than anything is protecting my eyes. Not that any other parts of the body shouldn’t be protected. I am right handed so I hold my molds with my left hand. 95% of the time I use my Lee IV bottom pour pot, so I do not use a glove on my left hand, unless I’m pouring the cavity closest to my hand and depends on which mold. Also since I now use the mold release spray, I inject lead most of the times in all of my molds if the mold will allow me to do that, so very little if any lead comes out and pours over. On my spinnerbaits which I pour with a Palmer hot pot, I always use a glove on my left hand. Too much chance for spill over and splashing. I have recently been using a small 1 oz. ladle for about $4.00 and now I use my hot pot just to heat the soft lead. The ladle for spinnerbaits is a godsend. No more lifting the heavy hot pot. As far as gloves go I buy thick leather gloves. After awhile, they will break into your hands and feel more comfortable. You can even use old leather gloves that are used for fireplaces they have the long cuff that goes to your elbow. The thicker the better especially on the top part of the hand. If you need more info PM me and I will try to help you out.

Welcome to TU and your first post. When you try it let us know you comments good and bad and post it here.

Now to the rest of you guys(friends) cracking jokes I am going to have a contest here on this forum in several days, to liven up this forum and see how perceptive you guys are and how your mind thinks. I think this will be very informative......So stay tuned.

George, I couldn't tell you for sure if that is a 45 degree hook eye. I do have the jig at home and didn't bother to chaeck the angle. Guys now I know I'm getting old, I don't even have all the facts to post the correct questions. I do have the 38108 and 38109 hooks at home and profile wise they are not even close, and they are thicker. Bob, I e-mailed Shorty's hooks and they were kind enough to look into this for me. These hooks are proprietary to Jwel Bait and can not be sold. The only way to get them is to have my own made, and at 10,000 min. lot, I don't think I could use that many in my lifetime. Thanks Guys for all the help.

Basseducer, I most have read that at least 5 times. Sucks to get old..........Thanks, now I see the word custom.

Ok guys I know someone has the answer and can help me here. I am looking for a (3/0) 60° flat eye hook. This hook is a sproat hook and is used by the Jewel Bait Co. on the Jeff Kriet Squirrel Head jig. The hook diameter is only .032” (1/32”). I have looked at Mustad and their 32798 and 32893 hooks are .046” thick. Can someone tell me who makes this hook for them and where can I get it? Here is a link of what the hook looks like. http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Jewel_Bait_Jeff_Kriet_Squirrel_Head_Jig_3pk/descpage-JBSHJG.html Thanks for all and any help

Fred that's a good idea I have to try that sometime.

Mark, I do this all the time. Take your cool blade finished side up and put it on the edge of a table or preferably a clean piece of steel or aluminum. The blade hole should be over the edge of the steel. Now take a heat gun, a small artist brush and your powder paint. Dip the brush in your powder paint and heat the blade at the hole or where you are missing paint. You will see the powder paint turn dark again or shiny. Tap your brush lightly (and I mean lightly, or put less powder on your paint) over the hole or where your blade has no paint. As you do this you will see the new paint blend into the existing paint and it will cover up the bare spot. Keep doing this until everything covers and blends in. This works great with candy colors as they flow better. Couple of things to remember when doing this. #1 Less powder on the brush is better as you can always add more. #2 When you reheat the blade, don't burn the existing paint, run your heat gun on a lower setting, until you see the paint gloss over, then tap on your paint. #3 Finally leave your blade on the steel or aluminum until it is cools. The aluminum or steel will draw the heat away from your blade to keep it from getting too hot when you initially heat it up and when you wait for it to cool. If you need more help PM me. I'm sure others have some other creative ideas as well.

I do the same as George does and many others. I get sheet lead from x-ray doors with one side that has stick on adhesive. I cut it up in small pieces and then put it in a 2lb cast iron pot on top of a turkey fryer. The glue smells badly, so do it outside. But I just skim it off until I get clean lead and then ladle the clean lead into mini-muffin pans. Use caution as mentioned above especially in hot weather when you perspire as well. A drop of sweat in a lead pot is a bad accident waiting to happen.

Not a problem. I'm always willing to help those who ask. That's the only way we all learn is by asking questions. Just think where would we all be without the i-net. Words can't describe the many ways people do things, but e-mailing pictures, diagrams and small video clips helps many of us from having to struggle in trying to accomplish things. I've learned a lot of things from guys on this site as well. So we all help each other and it's a win, win situation for us all.

For a true marble or veined paint, you buy the paint as is and the catalyst in the powder makes the rest happen. If you want to mix two colors together you will get another color but it won't be marbled.

Welcome to TU rusted hook. You better put the Devcon on your rusted hooks, other wise you won't need any Devcon because you won't have any hooks. I know no-one like a smart a$$. Joking aside try this link http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/18166-where-to-buy-devcon/page__p__137248__hl__where+to+buy+devcon__fromsearch__1#entry137248 most guys now buy it on line. Make sure you get Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute, nothing else. Good Luck

Jigstick Welcome to TU and this forum, where all of your questions will be answered by someone.

Clear coat the entire head with D2T. Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute as mentioned above and they will never lift off or come off again. Also the D2T gives the head extra protection from rocks and it definitely brings out and deepens the paint job in your heads. You can use that as a selling point for your customers. I am sure there are cheaper alternatives someone will metion here if you want.

Welcome to TU, I did get your message and I will call you tomorrow. As far as putting colors over colors I do it all of the time. See my avatar. However you have to plan on what colors go where and which ones first. Maybe a solid yellow over black would work, but if I were to paint it I would put the yellow on first and then black where I wanted it unless you want a reverse image. Everything usually can be done, but it takes experimenting to get it done right and that is where all the time comes in. BTW I use powder paint on my jigs and spinnerbaits and powder paint does have limitations. Hopes this helps.

Henry I sent you a PM with my e-mail. I will find out why I can't receive anymore PM's. I just looked and It's not full. Hmmmmmm

Henry, Well I'm glad all the advice given here worked for you. A fluid bed is the way to go for mass production one color powder painting. If you're up for the challenge, PM me your e-mail, and I will send you instructions on how to build one yourself. It is pretty simple. If you are not handy then I would suggest to support one of our members here who sells them. His name is Benjamin from TJ's tackle here is the link. http://www.tjstackle.com/ Good Luck.

Henry, I use Parks paint remover. There is no smell at all you can do this in your basement, it is also non-flammable. However do what Vodkaman says. It must soak over night. Take a bowl dump all of your blades in there and then fill them all with paint remover. next morning take them all to your slop sink and then you can wash off the paint remover. Works like a charm. Discard used paint remover properly.