cadman

PM Sent

Razorworm, Do they have a website or a catalog?

You will get a lot of responses here I'm sure. Everyone will have there own opinions. I have (3) Lee IV pots and I wouldn't trade them for nothing in the world, well maybe an RCBS pot. Anyway, yes you can pour the 1/2 and the 3/4 oz football jigs no problem. I started out ladle pouring and it is slow. I personally can pour or inject my lead molds faster with a bottom pour pot then with a ladle. I also believe it is safer with a bottom pour pot then a ladle. Yes it is true that the pots drip a little but that is such a mute point when it comes to speed and safety. This is just my opinion, as everyone uses what suits them.......Good Luck

I never leave mine on that high. I leave it on 7 all of the time. Maybe in the dead of winter I will turn it up to 8, or when I'm using really hard lead but that's about it. I flux all of my pots every hour whether they need it or not.

Joe, If you want a permanent fix, you will have to silver solder a piece of bent wire on your hook shank, and then pour your lead. This will guarantee it will never spin. It is tedious to do but without crimped hooks, I've seen this many times on lead poured on straight shank hooks.

The answer to your question is exactly what Jigman said. You get some interesting effects not always what you want. However experiment in small quantities and write down your ratios in case you stumble on something you really like. Yes, if you mix red with white you "may" get a shade of pink. White is the heaviest paint in my opinion, so add red gradually and shake really well. If you want a consistant pink all of the time, I do not recommend doing this.

Yes you definitely can and there is nothing wrong with doing that. However there are some colors you can not make as they are true piments. Like white, yellow, blue and red. If you mix any and all of these colors you can make any shade of paint you want.One other thing on powder paints if you mix two or three colors, you will never get a pure color. Powder paint is unlike liquid paint. You can mix it but it does not fully blend into each other like a liquid paint. If you want let's say a solid Christmas tree green color in a powder paint you will have to have it custom made.

Thanks for the info, it's good to know. I myself do not use a lot of Pro-Tec powder for obvious reasons. There are a lot of alternatives out there.

I have not used it, but I have hard that you can use it. I also heard that the coverage is thinner. But again that is hearsay.

I don't know if you phone your orders in or order on line, but I always phone my orders in and ask questions. I ordered 3 molds, two were out of stock and I received my entire order on Friday complete.

Joe, I checked it as well and he doesn't have his info linked to the site. If you need spec info go to Do-It molds and they will have all of that. Once you have all the correct mold numbers, call up Jim at Zeiner's and tell him his link won't work also he will give you a price right over the phone or via e-mail. He is definitely customer oriented, and will give you all the info you need. 1st class all the way.

JSC is correct. The only limit you have in creating jigs is your mind. There are many things you can do and achieve with jigs.I have painted many different jigs for customers with all kind of variable that they conjure up. Some things come out beautiful and others well I wouldn't sell.

Very nice clean looking jigs. I love those colors.

Both of those hooks you are using are 90 degree hooks. The mold is made for a 60 degree hook. So what's happening if I understand correctly is where the hook eye bends 90 degrees into the hook, the hook eye bend is touching the front of the cavity and not giving you complete pours correct? I'm at work so I don't have the mold in front of me. If that's correct bend the hook eye by the bend outward to achieve 60 degrees which will pull the hook shaft and the hook eye bend down into the cavity, thus pulling it away from the cavity wall. Now remember Matsuo hooks are not as forgiving as the 32746 hooks so you may break them when you bend them, that is the down side to it. If I didn't answer your question, PM me and send me a pic of what is going on, I will help you solve your dilemma.

Bug, I have that mold and the Matzuo's 9014 and the 32746 hooks. I don't have that problem. What cavity are you referring to and what size hooks?

I personally use a heat gun and put it on lower heat setting for all subsequent colors after the base coat. You can dip half of a jig in a jar of paint or you can make your own salt shakers with film canisters. Those are to name a few. I'm sure you will get other ideas here as well.

I try not to look back in time, but go back about 35 - 40 years and I think most of the ma and pa stores new everything about what they carried or took an interest in what their store sold. They had to because knowledge and answers to questions was key to staying in business. I try to support those small stores because most of them are long gone and they still hold the key to a lot of local information. If I lived as close as you do to them, I would definitely spend some time perusing their shelves to see what is new, along with probably buying more than I need. It's really nice to call up a store, get a person to talk to, and being able to speak to someone that takes an interest in your order and what you have to say.

I've been looking for about a year for extremely good prices. I have not found anything phenomenal. However, the best place for pricing is Barlow's. Also they have very reasonable shipping for my location anyway. But check your zone because that's what they go by. I don't know of anyone else that has great prices. I am in the process of designing a different style for mine. The blade will be out of aluminum which will make it vibrate more. I will them have them cut on a laser. I'll post info if and when all of this happens. For anyone else that knows of a better place that has really good prices please post. I'm looking as well.

E-mail sent

All the years I've bought molds and spent more than I should have. Oh well live and learn. Jim Zeiner is also very nice to deal with he will go out of his way to make sure you are happy with everything. I know you will like their quick service.

You know now that you mentioned it, I will agree with you. There old color coding/pricing system had much smoother cast molds. Many of their new cast molds are rough on the surface like you mentioned. Too bad the good old days won't be back anytime soon. I spoke to a machinist, and showed him some of Do-IT's cast molds. His suggestion was to take some jeweler's rouge on a small pointed buffing tip and polish out the cavities. I've tried this on an Arky jig mold,and doing this does make smoother faces, however this is extremely time consuming. A Dremel, pointed buffing tip and jeweler's rouge is not something I want to do to about 100 molds x umpteen cavities x two mold halves.

You beat me to it, I guess I'll have to type faster.

Hawn The stuff I got was made by Frankford Arsenal. The only info on the can is to clean existing mold with paint thinner or acetone to clean off oils and grime and let dry. Then spray on the release agent on a cool mold and let dry. Reapply as necessary to release bullets. When reapplying clean off old release agent with pain thinner or acetone. It doesn't say how often to reapply so I will call the manufacturer and see what their input is then I'll post it here. I will tell you one thing. I know you have the Cabela's Wobble Jig as I do, and that is where I would like to see how this works. Those jigs coming out of that mold are a P.I.T.A. However I think the shape of the jig in that mold and the casting is an issue all to itself. Do you have a problem with that mold as well?

Pete, I really don't have very many pouring problems, but what I did notice when I poured lead in the mold, it looked to me like the lead just slid off of the coating, so I'm going to say yes it will definitely help achieve fuller pours. I have only used it so far on 2 molds and about 300 jigs. So far I like it. I will keep you guys posted especially on hard to pour molds. Please post your thoughts and results good or bad when you get a chance to use it . I always like feed back from others as it helps all of us make things easier in our lead pouring quests.

Ok so I'm not the first guy to always try new things. Also I have to thank some of the guys who posted on here about lead mold release agent. I don't know all your names so THANK YOU ALL. I am not a stubborn person (well maybe a little) but I was having a problem with one of my molds with the jigs getting stuck inside the cavities after they were poured. Well I got really frustrated (putting it mildly) and a thought came back haunting me that I should try the mold release spray the guys who pour bullets use. Well after fighting with these jigs I decided to bite the bullet and buy this stuff. I am not a big fan of a lot of hype so I had mixed emotions about paying around $10 for a small can of spray. Anyway, I bought some from Zeiner's with the molds I ordered and I tried it out for the first time. Man where have I been for the last 8 years of pouring. This stuff is sprayed on over a cleaned mold, both mold halves, all jig cavities and sprue cavities. It goes on gray and looks like flat battleship gray paint once it dries. Well to make a long story short., this stuff is the cat's a$$. It is like cooking eggs on a teflon pan. I was impressed. It definitely helps release the jigs from the mold cavity. I have not tried it on all my molds, but I will as I use them. A very good product indeed. If you've never used it you have to check it out.................................................Good Luck and Good Pouring