cadman

For all of you that want to make these at home for yourself, here is how I made these. There is no secret to this. However it is very time consuming and at times can be very frustrating. Also any image you can print you can put on any blade or spinnerbait body. Also remember to get permission from any logo you use. Finally unless you are licensed to sell any sports logos, you can not sell these to anyone. I made these as a gift not for profit. Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf Sports Decal Instructions.pdf

No problem at all. I have an old Hewlett Packard( HP 1220c) Inkjet printer. This printer is about 6+ years old. This is before they came out with all of the high tech printers that can print photos. Believe it or not the quality is really crisp. Also it depends on how clean your image is. As far as what type of decal paper I use, I bought it from Microformat. Here is the link http://www.paper-paper.com/. I am going to post the instructions on how I did this below. I was very pleased with how they came out

Thanks for the compliments guys. Kelly, I don't think they're museum quality. Maybe in 100 years, but by that time the epoxy would probably turn yellow and you wouldn't be able to see anything. Just a quick run down, but with all the screwing around and imaging I have about 40 hours in all to make 5 spinnerbaits. Also like you I always want things to be perfect but that is not always the way it turns out. However I am my worst critic.

Jason, I don't know what the time span was from when you applied it to when you touched it, but if you measured it(equally) correctly and you mixed it thoroughly, the epoxy should harden(cure) in 24 hours. If it still is sticky after that, then you did not do the 2 steps above correctly. You can mix another batch and apply it over the first one and your jigs will be good to go. Just wait another 24 hours for the second coat to dry.

Wow, that puzzles me. I have never had bad paint from anywhere I bought it from. I've seen powder paint get hard from moisture which is still usable, and I've seen powder paint get hard from sitting in a hot car, which at that point is junk. So back to your dilemma. Is it yellow chartreuse or green chartreuse? Are you putting it on by chance too thick. It will teardrop or nipple when there is too much powder. You mentioned multi-color. Was the chartreuse paint the base color or the color you put over a base color, that you said did not run or drip? Sorry for all of the questions but I'm trying to find a solution. Finally can you take some pics of the problem and post here? That would be a great help for everyone to look at and diagnose your problem.

Smalljaw, Thanks for the compliment. Yes those are decals I made with a printer, decal paper, and a bunch of other things. I was very pleased at how they came out. I will say that it is very time consuming, but well worth it when you see the final product. If you want I can post the process here or I can e -mail it to you.

Well this is a tough one as always. It is always beneficial to pour your own, but it takes a lot of trial and error to get to the point of making good jigs. Along with that comes cost and frustration. Cost of components: Lee IV Melting Pot………..$60.00 Molds for casting………….$35-$40 each Lead……………………….Free if you can get it or about $2 per lb. Hook for each size and each mold………..depends on who you buy from and what brand…...in 100 count. Powder paint about……….$5/2 oz per color. **Gate shears……………..$7.00 Hanging trays for jigs……..You can make your own. Toaster oven to cure painted jigs……………….$30-$40 Safety Glasses…………….$5.00 Face Shield……………..…$10.00 Skirts for jigs about 50 cents for a full skirt Misc………………..Leather gloves, long sleeve shirt, plenty of clean space. Learning curve to pour……………..practice makes perfect Learning curve to paint…………….practice makes perfect ** You can always just break off sprue and not polish jigs. Do you want a nice looking jig or do you want a jig to fish. I’m sure the fish don’t care. Also all these prices are ball park prices. If you look around at garage sales or get it free that much better. I’m sure other will chime in on things that I forgot.

You can also use seven strand nylon coated leader wire. Similar to what 21xdc posted on the surflon. It comes in varying lb. tests and thicknesses. It is used to make musky quick strike rigs.

Here are some spinnerbaits I made for my cousin for X-mas. He is a die hard Chicago Sports fan. When I gave them to him he loved them.

Nice looking spinnerbaits. Nothing wrong with those. I made a similar skirt to yours. It looks a lot like the KVD skirts they use on his spinnerbaits.

I'm cleaning out my inventory of powder paints. If interested PM me. All powder is available immediately until it is all sold. Cadman\'s Powder Paints Cadman\'s Powder Paints Cadman\'s Powder Paints Cadman\'s Powder Paints Cadman\'s Powder Paints Cadman\'s Powder Paints Cadman\'s Powder Paints TU.pdf Cadman\'s Powder Paints TU.pdf Cadman\'s Powder Paints TU.pdf

Rob did you get my pics? On your next question, I believe the copper heating rods are independent of the stand. The rods going to the pot and through the stand can not touch the stand sides. I am not home now but I have one disassembled, I can take a pic and e-mail it tomorrow for you. Let me know?

Yes it should be fine. I use straight 304 stainless steel wire. Also I buy my special wire in straight lengths. I do not like wire off of a coil. However that is personal preference. The straight lengths are more money I believe. Also make sure you get the correct diameter wire for the right spinnerbait mold.

Rob pics sent via e-mail

Rob, If you need a pic I can take one for you as I have extra plungers. If you need all the dimensional data on how to make one I have that as well somewhere. I'll have to look for it though, but it has all the info on it as far as how long , where the cutouts are, diameter etc. I had one machined out of stainless awhile ago. Let me know if this would help.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Pete, and to all the guys on TU. Hope it's a good one.

Nice spinnerbaits. I like your clean and even thread wraps. Looks very professionally done.

I've posted before on this exact topic, see http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/17356-wanted-to-buy-paca-chunks-or-something-similar/ The molds from Lurecraft are not available currently, unless you bought them awhile back. I bet it had something to do with the original Paca Chunk. I have had some TU members send me some to try out. Majority of them don't even come close to the original action of the Paca chunk. I still have some to try out in Spring as I received the samples in late fall. My suggestion is to keep buying the originals. I am not a plastics guy, so I don't know how to make them. But I believe that the trick is in the way the claws move. If someone finds the solution. Please PM me.

I don't think you read that I did that. I may have put in a lot of air (vent) reliefs so the air can escape and the lead could pour easier, but that's about it. Trust me you don't want to cut slots in the Ultra-Minnow jig mold for wireforms, if they already have a spinnerbait mold that encompasses almost every size you will need. Unless you're going to do that to the 1-1/2 oz and up jig mold to make heavier spinnerbaits. The reason I'm saying not to do this is it's a lot of tedious work, and if a mold can be bought ready to go then why do it. It's worth to pay the extra bucks and buy a complete ready to pour spinnerbait mold than to cut, measure file and so on. On printers lead in my experience, the lead they made type with in the past is very hard. I do not think it is a good choice for the Ultra-Minnow spinnerbait mold. You will have problems. Most everybody uses soft lead for that mold. This is just my opinion. You can always try and then post your results here so everyone can learn and get more educated.

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I get my lead from dentists, plumbers, old time printers, contractors and anywhere else I can find it for free. You can also get it on line at Roto-Metals I believe. They are the cheapest on line, but don't quote me. As far as the Ultra-Minnow mold if you get the spinnerbait than my choice is pure soft lead. If you get the jig than I pour that with straight hard lead. This is just what I do with my set-up. Others may have different ways to do it. There is a lot of trial an error on the person who pours this and their experience along with their knowledge of how lead pours in different molds. There is no foolproof way of doing this. Just pour it and ask a lot of questions. This topic has been covered extensively on this mold.

Rob, I paid the same thing you did a little over a year ago. I will address the price issue with you off line.

I use silicone glass cloth tape that has a max temp of 500°, it does not work well for masking to get lines and special cutouts when you are powder painting jigs or blades, the heat from a torch or a heat gun is too intense. I have used it for years for covering barrel swivels on pony head jigs, and for one if you use a torch you will ignite the tape. If you use a heat gun or any heat source, the tape will un-adhere as soon as the jig or blade gets hot enough to try to apply the powder to it. I work with powder paints and commercial powder painted panels. The tape works really well when you have an electrostatic system, as the item is charged with a current it draws the powder to the panel. We then bake the panels with the tape on. Less heat for longer duration of time, temperature does not exceed 325°. As far as jigs and blades go I have tried many things, and anything that is self adhesive does not fare well when heat from a torch or hot heat gun is applied to it. Unless you have something different I am very interested in hearing your results.

I buy mine from there as well. I've looked at Lakeland and Worth and I didn't see any there. I would be interested in a source as well.

Hawnjigs, I was going to post a pic tonight and you beat me to it. Yes it does have a nice slow wobble as it falls vertically in the water.