cadman

If you have any more problems or you find a solution, post it here so everyone can learn:yay:

I have not found it so thick that you can not brush it on. Once you mix it about 30 seconds start applying it on. It will self level. You can not let it sit for 10 minutes with out applying it. If it does get too thick to apply after 10 minutes or so, you can hit the mixed epoxy in your cup or whatever with a hair dryer this will liquefy it. But as soon as you do that the heat will accelerate the curing process(hardening) so you don't have much time with that either. I have heard guys mix the D2T with acetone or lacquer thinner. However I don't know what that's going to do to the powder paint, and I don't think if you do that you should heat it with a hair dryer. Lacquer thinner and Acetone are very volatile. Just my thoughts. Others may know better.

I built aluminum racks and used allthread rod to keep the hooks from sliding around. PM me your e-mail and I can show you some pics.

nfollmer, I would definitely be interested in seeing your 3D files if you are willing to share. I just love technical stuff (designs, drawing, cad files etc.) I am currently working on a lead mold, that I'm designing with Solidworks. It's every bit as challenging. The mold is coming along fine, I am just spread out too thin and can't finish everything. I will then export the 3d solid model to a friend and he will hopefully cut the mold and details on a CNC 5 axis machine. The mold is aluminum and I saw the machine he uses in action, talk about impressive. Hey Dave maybe we can buy one together and start a business? I envy you, you have some cat's a** cad software. I wish they would get it at my company. I have heard so many good things about Catia, excellent software.

Wow that's a first, I have never heard of anyone that physically used that hook on that jig and not like it. There are not a lot of hooks made at 28 degrees that will fit that mold. I will check later, but maybe a Mustad 32886 or a 32724. Both of these hooks are about 20 cents each at Barlows + shipping. Also they do make a Gami that fits in there with a round bend hook. I don't know what you mean by expensive. If you buy small quantity of hooks you will naturally pay more. If you want to buy and stock thousand quantity lots then it will be cheaper. The Gami's are even more expensive. If you are interested PM me and I can give you more info.

Thanks BBK, I guess I should have read this first http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/12312-melting-pouring-old-plastic-baits.html?highlight=re-melting+plastic' rel="external nofollow">

I have about 100 broken, ripped, clawless Paca Chunks. Can I re-melt these and make some other type of plastic bait. Will the plastic properties still be the same when I re-melt them (ie softness, texture etc.) What would be the easiest way to do this. Thanks for the help. If it's too long to explain here, let me know and I can PM you or post link here and I will be more than willing to read it instead of wasting your guys time..............Thanks for the help.

KY You can also use 50 or 60 lb clear mono line and glue them in place.

Thanks for the good info smalljaw.

Fernet, I do not use a drying wheel. I also do not thin my D2T. I first put some wood furring strips on my table where I will lay my blades down. Next I mix my D2T. Then I take my finished painted blade with latex gloves and brush on D2T as much as I can cover on the blade, I then lay it down, take a needle and hold the blade in place in the middle (to keep it from moving) then brush the rest that I was holding with my fingers. Once I do 3 or 4 of them, I take a heat gun and run it over all the blades. It thins out and smoothes out all of the D2T and also any bubbles. I then have a small canopy that I put over all the blades to keep the dust off, and wait for it to dry................That's it.............I guess you can dilute D2T, but I would suggest not with Lacquer thinner or Acetone. If I recall correctly, I did that once and it started to melt my powder paint. I would say denatured alcohol would be the best. Also I don't think you would want to run a heat gun over anything mixed with lacquer thinner or Acetone. They are very volatile. You may want to try this on a scrap sample before you do a 100 blades. Hopes this helps some.

I store mine in a plastic zipped lock baggie with the color and the number marked on the bag. Then in a box in a cool place.

Brendan, I have (4) Lee IV bottom pouring pots. One of them is going on 6 years old. I pour every weekend. To me they are excellent pots. They are a little annoying when it comes to doing spinnerbaits because of wire clearance, but it is workable. I would not pour jigs any other way. You can still pour with a ladle if you want to do some spinnerbaits. JMO

Steve I bake all my blades at 325 degrees, and it works just fine. On many I clear coat them with Devcon 2 Ton (30 minute) for more durability. If you want to see some pics PM me your e-mail. You will get a lot of info here from a lot of guys on their process. Learn as much as you can, it only makes you better at what you do.

walleye warrior, Exactly what Basseducer said. Before the day of candy color powder paints, there was blade dip. I still have some. But it doesn't last long even if you clear coat it. If you want to use the blade dip on hooks then go ahead. But now with powder candy paints that's the only way to go on blades, and if you clear coat them that's even better. Good luck

If you are getting lead in the swivel, then your gap where your swivel sits is too big. You will have to seal it up so lead doesn't seep in. JB weld will work just fine.

BBK, To me I think this would be dangerous. If you don't want to spend the money to pour, then buy the jigs and paint them yourself. Another safer solution is to buy a cast iron pot and a ladle and then use the ladle to pour the lead in. You can use the torch to heat the cast iron pot. I personally feel that ladle pouring is not the best to pour jigs because it cools too fast. JMO

Sorry I didn't read that these were blade baits. So naturally there are no weed guards. Yes you can use high temp tape to cover the rest. I assume you are using the chrome or silver blades? PM me your e-mail and I can show you some pics

Steve, I looked up the pic on Joel Richardson's chatter bait, and the pic I saw did not show the bait modified. The hook probably was shorter didn't check. I personally like the longer hook myself, but there is not a lot of wood by us around here, mostly weed edges and lily pads. I also do not use a trailer hook, but I do use a plastic trailer.

I mainly use powder paint. Then glue in weed guards if needed. Then put on eyes. If you put on eyes you should clear coat the jig to keep the eyes from falling off. I also use a fluid bed for one color applications.

I called them personally to buy a mold and they don't sell them anymore. This was about 2 weeks ago due to patent problems. You can have a mold made and there has to be 10% plus difference in your design

Exactly what sdsaw commented on and also what I stated in post 2. Comment #4

TJ You and I are both on the same wave length. That was my first idea as I didn't want to weld it and don't have a welder. I looked at the length of threads remaining and the threads are only sticking out about 3/6 - 1/4 inch past the nut. Thanks

Thanks Jig Man, I do know that stainless is very hard. However I have never heard anyone having this problem with stainless steel ball and mounts. I'm glad I caught this before I had a bad accident. Now I check it regularly every time I go.

Thanks for the info. Just some info for all. Before I went fishing on Sunday, I took my stn. stl. ball and mount off of my truck. I then had my old black steel mount and a new chrome ball that I put on. I towed my boat 130 miles round trip and no problem. Well you're going to say just use that. I will temporarily, but the steel mount and the chrome ball all will rust in time. The stn. stl. looks so nice.........I think what is happening is the stainless steel mount, lock washer and nut are so hard, that the lock washer doesn't dig into the mount and the nut to keep the nut from backing out. So when I start and stop with my truck the nut slowly starts backing out. You all have good ideas. Welding seems like the answer. However I will call up the manufacturer. This worked for almost 3 years, so I don't know why it doesn't now. I want to say maybe lock nut fatigue. Thanks guys

Thanks for the info guys.