cadman

Customstixs Welcome to TU and enjoy the madness. You would get more replies if you would post your lead jig and spinnerbait questions in the "Wire Bait Forum". Many guys don't venture outside of their familiar forum. I use the same thing as Jig Man Loctite Gel Super Glue.

We have a laser, punch presses, turrets and a machining center. All of these can be used to cut polycarb except the laser. Do not cut this with a laser it is very toxic. You can also use hand tools and a water jet.

John, I wouldn't go so far and say that! I If I was a genius I would win the lottery and never have to work again, or be a phenominal brain surgeon. Anyway, I'm glad this will work for you. Let us all know your results.

John, thanks or the compliment. Do-It (the Ultra-Minnow you see in my avatar) will not do custom orders. You will have to go to a mold maker like Shawn Collins. On another note, if you take a look at Do-It's Ultra-Minnow Jig, you can easily modify that into a spinnerbait. The SHR-4-M has 1/2, 3/4, 1, and 1-1/2 oz cavities. The SHR-3-L has 2, 3, and 4 oz cavities. You already have the hook shank cut out already. It wouldn't take much to cut out a slot at the nose. This would save you a lot of money buying a custom mold.............Just a thought.

John, Here are some places to look for spinnerbait molds. Do-it Molds: Lure Molds, and Buy your Hilts Molds online here.

Jigman, when I suggested this awhile ago people thought I was nuts, (BTW you can use whatever works to do this I use heat resistant teflon tape) but it does work. If you can't get flash by doing this than there is a heat issue. Everytime I gap a mold if everything is going well, you will always get flash. By moving the location of the tape you will either get more flash or no flash. But gaping it a bit will usually result in better lead flow and perfect pours because you now have no possibility of any air pockets. Well I'm glad it all worked out, that's what's so great about this site guys willing to help each other out. I was actually going to drive to Missouri to help you out:lol: but I looked on the map and it's kind of far.

Jigman, If it's a pot problem, you can save yourself some money by sending yours back to Lee. They will fix it like brand new for half the cost.

Jigman, one other thing I thought of if you put in a 6/0 hook in the mold, the mold won't close without any force. If you have a 6/0 put it in but don't force it closed. With that said you should get flash all over the place. You will not get flash on a 5/0 hook. Most mold cavities are made for one size up and one size down. Now if you went to a smaller hook, than you would get lead seepage down around the hook shank, which can easily be trimmed off. Try a 6/0 hook. I still say it's the pot not heating enough.

Jigman, In my experience low humidity or no humidity is the best. I pour in Chicago,IL area all year long in winter it can get to 15 below by us, and I can pour every mold I have perfectly. The only drawback at that time of year is to keep the hooks warm, so I do believe that the low humidity and dry air is definitely a plus. As far as your current dilemma I don't have an answer for you since I'm not there. If you can not get flash with an open mold, then this tells me either the mold is not hot enough or the lead from the pot is not hot enough (Maybe your pot element is burning out, as you mentioned you had it on high and still no luck). Are you also telling me that you can not get good blank pours with out the hook? If that is the case then definitely look at the pot as being a problem and or mold not hot enough. That can be the only problems. Did you stick the mold sprue hole onto the pour spout and force the lead into it? Do you have a full pot of lead? These are many questions that I believe that 21xdc mentioned. I hate to say it but check all of these again. I know you're an experienced pourer, so that isn't the issue. Let me know if I can help in any other way, and if you find a solution

This is a weird one. If I remember correctly the 1/2 oz cavity is the closest to the hinge correct? Gap the two mold halves until you get a lot of flash and good pours. From there reduce the gap between the mold halves. This should work. I pour the 1/2 oz with a 4/0 hook and I have no problem. I am really surprised you have problem with soft lead. That is rarely an issue. If you have a Lee IV bottom pour pot, I would not pour at such a high temp. I rarely go over 7.5 on the dial, usually 7. Also I will tell you that humidity does have an impact on pouring. There are some days I can pour all day and other days I have nothing but problems. So I just pour the next day. Maybe someone else will chime in. It looks like you coverd all the basics. The last thing is maybe the pot is not heating the lead hot enough.

Mark, Thanks for all the info. I like the Revo because they are very light. I will have to take a look at a Summit. But the price of that Revo is so enticing it makes me want to buy another one. I am right handed so I cast right hand and reel left hand. I think I'll hold off another month or two and see if Tackle Warehouse still has them. But then it will be getting cold here, we'll see. Thanks very much for all your input......................Ted(Cadman)

Mark I'm glad you liked them and I hpe they hold up for you. My first one had problems after about 6 months, but so far so good. I was thinking about the Pfleuger as my second one as well, but didn't know anyone that had one. On the Revo did you get the L.H or R.H crank handle? If down the road for some reason you decide to give up on the Revo PM me. I still might be interested and we can talk.BTW how do you like the Pleuger?

Welcome to TU Brendan. First of all what model of spinnerbait do you have? If you have any of the molds from Do-It, that do not have the eye sockets, then you can make your own eyes. I am a perfectionist on all my stuff and I hate sloppy looking eyes, so I don't paint them any more since I can't paint them really well. On those spinnerbaits you can use flat store bought 2d eyes or make your own. These flat eyes will conform to the profile of the spinnerbait body. Spinnerbaits with recessed eye sockets will accomodate 2d and 3d eyes. Spinnerbaits with protruding eyes(Style "H") you can use electrical tape. As far as positioning goes, I roughly measure on a virtual vertical centerline from nose to center of where I want the eye.Then I stick them on lightly and look at the jig from the front. Re-position if needed and once you like the way it looks press them on. You will get really good at it the more spinnerbaits and or jgs you make. Always clearcoat eyes as they will fall off in use. If you need more help on making eyes PM me your e-mail address. Also I'm sure there are others here that will give you excellent advice on how to paint eyes. Good Luck

They use to have a mold for this way back in the day, before everybody started suing everybody. That is an Erie Dearie and that mold is not currently made that I'm aware of to the public. You might be able to find one on e-bay, but I haven't checked in awhile. PM sent.

Mark, If everything goes well you will like the reel. That is a phenominal price. I guess if I would have waited till the end of the year, I could have gotten a deal like you did. I am in the market for another one, but I'm going to see how this one works out so far so good.............We'll see.......When you get yours and use it let me know how you like it.

For all interested: For those of you that have limited building skills, and found my tutorial too complex, please support one of our members here Benjamin from tjstackle. www.tjstackle.com He has fluid beds for a reasonable price and has a fully functional unit right out of the box. This would make life a lot easier for some guys.

PM me your e-mail, and I will give you the tutorial.

They use their own as far as I know. PM me your e-mail.

Instructions sent to chevy343 and jigdaddy

Gman, The only info I have for you is this. "You can paint approx. (400) 1/4 oz jigs with a 2 oz jar." From the Pro-Tec Co.

Hey Pete, I don't want to buy the farm, because if I did I wouldn't need any money but if you have a few million at reasonable loan rates you want to negotiate, I'm all ears....

I have only used vinyl paint at the beginning, and I got really bad headaches from it so I stopped using it. I can't say anything negative about it since I have not used it at the time extensively. However I'm a powder paint fanatic. There is almost nothing with a metal base that can not be painted with powder paint. If painted correctly and baked properly, I'll take powder paint over anything else. Also and I could be wrong on this, but I don't think you can put on 5 or 6 colors with vinyl paint to achieve a multi-color jig. Just my I'm sure you will get more accurate replies regarding vinyl paint from others.

Smalljaw is correct on this. It could be a veined finish depends on application or it could be a hammertone finish. Your pic looks a lot like Mags pic he posted in this thread. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/wire-baits/17708-hammer-finish-jigs.html Maybe it's the same jig by the same company except yours doesn't have the skirt. All these finishes are available, but they are not cheap if you want good quality powder paint pigment and if you want a custom color, add on some extra cash.

Hey we got to stop meeting like this....People are going to start talking. Believe it or not I just got done pouring some and I had the same problem.....You are correct it is an air pocket. This is what I did to solve the problm when I was pouring them last week. Can't say another day won't be the same problem. Any way solution # 1 I turned the heat up to #8 on my Lee IV bottom pour pot, then I stuck the sprue hole of the mold right into the pour spout. Like forced injection. It worked for about 150 pours, then it started again. #2 I then took a piece of my fibrglass tape and taped it on the inside of one half of the mold sides. It worked like a charm. Here is the theory behind the tape. If you are pouring the cavity closest to the hinge pin, put your tape as close to the poured cavity. If you are getting to much flash, move it further away, from the poured cavity, until you get perfect pours and no flash. The closer the tape is to the cavity, the more open space there will be between the two mold have leaving a slight gap. Even if the tape is really thin. This is a trial and error thing for location of tape on the mold. But like you, if I get 50% bad pours, it makes sense to make adjustments than waste time and keep on pouring and hoping the next pour will be a good one..................This has worked for me. I try not to get crazy and start putting in vent lines. Any time you put in a vent line, you add the possibility of more lead to seep through and more things to clean on your jig...........I hope this helps.

Gman, I have used 1 size over and 1 size under like you have, and never had any issues. Sometimes depends on the mold, the 1 size under will have some lead leach out by the collar where it ends, but I just trim that away. Also as I'm sure you know all the molds aren't identical, along with all of the cavities. I have a round jig mold that all the cavities pour fine except one, it's always been a problem. I borrowed my friends, and the one I have a problem with pours fine on his, but he has a different one that he has problems with. So there you go. I think you will solve your problem with the JB weld. Anyway it's an easy fix.............Let us know how you do...........