cadman

Gman, the only time I have ever had this problem is when I use hooks that are smaller in diameter, and not meant to be used for a particular mold. Since I interchange a lot of hooks that happens, but I only get it on the hook part right under the hook eye never in the eye. I guess you can try JB weld as it can't hurt. Worst case scenario, is you put in JB weld, and it wears out, and you try again. About all the info I can give you on this. To all others, one other bit of info now that I think of it, is my friend pours quite a bit and this is how he screwed up his molds. (Gman not to say you did this). But my friend has a tendency to use bigger diameter hooks than you are supposed to. Instead of opening up the cavity at the hook shaft and the hook eye to accept the larger hooks, he just slams them shut smacks them with a hammer and pours.....This is a no,no:pissed: as #1 he springs the mold at the hinge pin, and #2 he opens up the cast out aluiminum features where the hook shaft lays and where the hook eye lays. So now when he pours the correct hook, everything has flash, and yes lead was seeping into the hook eye area and into the hook eye.

When Wal-Mart stopped carrying D2T, I stocked up and bought all they had. I have (6) packages of un-opened syringes, and I keep them in the basement in the dark. I've had them for about a year, and have (6) packages of older ones I bought for 2 years and so far no problem. I think dark place is the key.

This was going to be my next suggestion. There are several other things you can try. #1 Once you get the blade dip baked, you can apply Pro-Tec powder glitter on. It comes with the clear or with out. I use the one with the clear. Apply like you would powder paint. You can then bake it again, or just clear over that with Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) for better protection. The problem with Pro-Tec glitter, is it doesn't cover evenly. (Just my opinion.) I like a smooth glitter all around the entire jig. So try #2 instead. #2 Get some Herbie's Magic dust powder glitter. It is a finer glitter than Pro-Tec, but once you put it on, it covers the entire jig with a fine shiny glitter. They have a website. #3 There is also some spray on glitter, which covers very well also. I think it is made by Krylon...........You can check the hard bait section here on TU for their comments. Just some thoughts for future consideration.

Scott, are you a machinist? If yes then how did you reduce the diameter of the hook eye locating pin in the mold? I would rather not remove it either as you stated.........Thanks

David, Bigfish and Scott, thank you guys very much for all the help. I really appreciate it, this will save me a lot of time researching info. Scott, those pics are excellent. They actually let me see what needs to be done and what the hook eyes look like in the mold cavity with the hooks in place. You guys really came through for me this time............Thanks Again...............Ted

Definitely do not mix more than you think you can apply on your baits. In about 15 minutes, it will start to get really thick, where you won't be able to apply it...........As far as the cold skillet goes, try it and let us know. I do know some guys used to put the Devcon in the fridge. I have never done this, but I think you will find, that by putting it in the fridge, will definitely make it harder to dispense, but I could be wrong......Definitely let us know your outcome, as I'm curious on what will work for you. This way we all can learn and gain more knowledge.

Does anybody pour the Do-It Sea Horse Jig Mold 3/4, 1 and 1-1/2 oz. Model #PHC-3-L? The reason I ask, is I don

Menards took mine back ater I told them about the recall. I was really surprised. They were really decent about it. You know Wagner makes an excellent heat gun, but boy there customer service is really slow. You would think that they would put it in high gear, so no one would get hurt or burn the house down.

If you want to take the existing weedguards out this is what to do. Take a pair of pliers, firmly grab the jig with a thick pair of leather gloves, and grab the weedguard with the pliers and pull out the starnds. Do this to all the jigs. Usually everything will come out clean with strands and glue. If there is any glue residue, take a drill bit about the same size as the existing hole and slowly drill out the glue with a cordless drill......I do not paint with the base hole pin in the jig............I just paint the jig and then take a drill and slowly clean out the hole from paint and then glue in the weedguard. Hope this helps. If you need more help on this you can PM me and I can explain it in better detail.

Yes this is true. There are a million ways to do this so I

Thanks for the replies guys and the Anti-Malware link. Redg8r and Looks Like Sinbad, your replies were dead on. It all worked. Thanks to the both of you for your elaborated explanation and answers.

This may sound stupid but I can not figure this out. My question is this When I open internet explorer (Ver.7) everything is good. Now I have different website shortcut links on my desktop. So when I click on any link, (ie Tackle Underground) the website opens small on my screen. I then click the restore button, and it fills the whole screen. No problem so far. When I close the link, and then open it up again it comes out small the same size as it did before. So now I have to click the restore button again. This happens to all my links or any websites I open. Isn't there somewhere in windows that you can set to open all websites fully maximized. I know this sounds stupid, however this happens on and off occasionally, and I can't figure out how I remedied it before...........Thanks for any help. BTW I have windows XP............Moderators if this is in the wrong spot please move it and sorry I didn't know where to post this.

All your Ace Hardware stores have it. Here is some more info for you. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/17736-devcon-need-help.html

The way I do it is like this. Once the jigs are baked, I keep them on the rack that I baked it on. When I put the 2d or 3d eyes on, I put latex gloves on both hands and start applying the eyes, then once in place I press them down with my latex covered fingers. This keeps my oily fingers and hands from touching the jig as little as possible. This may be extreme, but if you get oil on your jigs, D2T sometimes may not cover all the spots. The other alternative is to wipe all your jigs down with alcohol after you put the eyes on if you chose not to use gloves. Once you get all your eyes on, I still leave my gloves on, and then start mixing a small batch of D2T at a time. Apply it to the entire jig and as many jigs as possible. Then mix more and keep on doing this until I'm finished. I keep all my jigs standing heads up, so if any epoxy drips, it will drip down. If you aplly it correctly, you should have no drips..............That's it .........If you have more questions please ask....I'm sure others may have shortcuts or other ideas. My word isn't gospel, this is just what I do. Try to see what works for you and if you find something easier please post it for all of us.

Keith, for speed and ease of use, you can't beat it. However the drawback is that it's not very durable without a topcoat. Even with a topcoat, once the topcoat is compromised the blade dip will just wear out.........Good luck and let us know how it works out for you....................

smalljaw, the blade dip is definitely easier to put on than powder paint. The finish of the blade dip looks like all the candy colors of powder paint Pro-Tec sells. I have all the colors of the blade dip, and I also have some of the colors that are no longer available. The colors are very vibrant. The jigs and or hooks must be coated with D2T. That's the only way I sell it, as it would never last any other way. On the flip side if you put on candy colored paint, you would not need a clearcoat. A clearcoat would only be used if you want extra protection, or just deepen the color on your jig. PM me your e-mail, and I'll show you some pics of the blade dip on jigs.

I'm a diehard D2T user also. I love it so much that I don't use anything else. However I'm always in the market to try something different if it works. (BTW thanks for your input on what you've already tried smalljaw.) My only issue is that when I have 500 jigs to do with eyes, that is a lot of D2T and a lot of application time and a lot of drying time.............With that said I'm really excited about this new super clear powder. I'll see how it goes.

Hi Keith, I take a jig or a blade ( make sure they are clean) dip it in Spike-It Blade dip, in and out really fast. It will dry in 10 seconds. It will go from dull to shiny. I then take it on a hanger that I dipped it in (I use christmas ornament hooks) and rack them on my oven rack. Bake at 350 degrees (Fahrenheit) for 15 minutes. I let cool and then I put Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) 30 minute over it. I brush mine on. I have never had any problems with it at all. I can't comment about any other epoxy or clearcoat though, because I have never used them.

Try "Munkin" I know he pours them. He posts on here on and off. His name is Allen. I will e-mail him and let you know you're interested. I don't know if he wants his e-mail open to the public.

Mags, I can't tell by looking at it. You would actually have to have the jig in your hand and feel it. A hammered finish, when you hold it in your hand has dimples in it. It looks like someone took a ball peen hammer and hit the jig with it. A textured finish has a sandy feel to it. There is texured and Mini-Tex. Textured has a bigger sandy feel to and Mini-Tex is sandy but smoother. The pic above I attached is a veined finish. It is close to smooth gloss finish, but you can feel the spaces where the black color mixes with the gold or copper etc. All these finishes are available in a powder paint application. We used to use the hammered finish on our battery chargers. The reason for hammered finish is that it doesn't show fingerprints. In the real world that is not an issue on jigs. However that pic that you attached is a very nice looking jig............If you want I can look into the hammered finishes............PM me your e-mail, and I'll get back to you on what I find.

Hi John, Where have you been? I haven't seen you on the site in a long time. I got your message last night. Call me tonight after 4:00pm and we can discuss the questions you have.....I sent you a PM about 3 weeks ago.......... As far as my thoughts on your question above. If you don't care that they are shiny, then clean with vinegar like Fatman said, then dip in blade dip, bake the blade dip and then clearcoat with your choice of clear. I personally would go with your last statement....." Im also thinking if....... maintain their present size". If you want them shiny agin and pit free, than this is the ticket. However like you said, the nose will be more round and this make take more time to get the sand out of the hole. I actually don't think that this is a bad idea, the rounded nose will have less tendency to have weeds cling to it............

Glad the fluid bed worked out for you...............I know that Yankee Jigger uses the CS coatings Seal Coat, and he highly recommends it . There is also E-tex which is supposed to dry very clear. Not as durable as DT2 but very good with several coats applied. I also have some E-tex at home I'm going to try..... will post my own results once I get some time.

Jigdaddy, I do the same or similar to what TJ does. #1 For my personal jigs I don't clearcoat and rarely use eyes. The baked finish is sufficient. #2 If you want just a clearcoat on, a baked on powder clear will work or you can use the clear with glitter like TJ mentioned. #3 If you are using eyes, then I would suggest an epoxy like Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute (D2T). #4 There are others, but I have not used them. I have a chemist working on a Super Clear powder, that will work on 2d and 3d eyes and can be baked on with the eyes in place. This would save tons of time insted of waiting for epoxy to dry...........I will post when I get the issues resolved.

I bought a small turkey fryer from BPS for about $20, and it works great. Best $20 I ever spent. I bought a small cast iron pot, which I melt my lead in and then spoon it out with a ladle. I also have the Lee ingot mold and 3 mini muffin pans they all work great. Makes for easy stacking............You and I think alike

Mags, Are you are referring to this type of paint? If yes, than this is powder paint. There are lots of places that sell this. Rosies, Caswell's and many powder paint companies. The powder however is not cheap in cost if you want quality paint.