cadman

Coley you and I have never met, but if that is southern hospitality, maybe I should reconsider8O8O8O. Just kidding looking forward to meeting everyone. Just for my own info, how early do you guys book hotel resevations? Where is the closest hotel to Nathan's. I would like to book now, I just don't want the date to change, so I don't lose my deposit. Thanks for any help...............Ted(Cadman)

The only other way I know of to get the lead out of the eyes other than drilling, is with a pointy awl, push the lead through, and then take a sharp knife and remove it from the other side. However this is very time consuming. Maybe someone else will chime in and give you some help.

Everything I read that you are doing is correct. Try a different mix like PSV mentioned regarding lead. I also have mentiond before, if you paint your jigs correctly and bake them, you do not need to use an epoxy top coat. I would put epoxy on if I use eyes, and also if I want extra protection, and to make my jigs have more paint depth in color. I have seen some paint failure with oxidized jigs, where the jigs turn gray before painting. Nothing that was too drastic. I also have seen jigs turn white with a chalky residue. It is bad practice to paint over oxidized lead especially if you are selling it. JMHO. BTW with oxidized lead, just drop the jigs in vinegar, and the acid in the vinegar will clean the jig for you. I have a couple question for you. What are you trying to say when you say flash over occurs. Also how do you know if and when this happens? Just curious. Secondly, I hear so much about people saying they get bad batches of paint. I am perplexed at this statement. What does this mean? I use about 20 different brands of powder, and have several hundred pounds at home with over 100 colors. I have yet to have any problem with any powder paint. I also powder paint at work with out any problems from any manufacturer. I'm curious what everyone is trying to say. **If anyone is willing to send me some "bad powder", I would like to experiment with it, and get some test results....**

Can't beat an Arky for an all around jig. I like the double collar myself personally.

Question #1. No they did not. They actually added a 1/2, 3/4 and 1 oz jig to their line-up. Question #2. Are you looking for painted ones? If not here is a link to read and some pics. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/wire-baits/15564-mold-flipping-jig.html

Tim, thanks for the detailed description, correcting my mis-information, and bailing me out.

Pete, I wish you could come, would like to meet you. I remember the thread with a picture of you in pink crocs in your boat, and some of the ribbing you got from the guys here. Now you are really going to miss it. George Reeves is going to bring pink powder paint. Question for all you guys that will attend. If anyone is interested, I still have a lot of textured powder paint at home, (see TU Classified ad, to read more) I can bring it to the TU meet, if anyone wants some. Let me know who you are and how much you want, and I will bring as much as you guys want, and as much as my truck will hold. BTW the powder paint is free, and best of all you save on shipping. George, it will be nice to meet after all the discussions on TU.

Long nose pliers. Open up enough just to get the blade in. When the jig is painted and baked, close, just be careful not to scratch the paint.

Nathan, The date change doesn't affect me. I plan on being there, with my wife. I plan on bringing something for all you guys to remember me by. However my wife wants me to make pink spinnerbaits, for all you guys, to see which one of you will be gutsy enough to fish with it on a regular basis and giving it to your wife/girlfriend to fish doesn't count. One catch though, if you catch your state record fish, you have to give her credit for the idea. PS......... just between us guys, it won't be pink spinnerbaits, I'll guarantee it. See you in April, and hoping to match names with faces. I'm sure we'll chat more as things develop.....Ted(Cadman)

You know I didn't see any jigs that were physically poured, but looking at the mold, yes it looked like the Snootie. ***Maybe some of you guys who have this mold can post a pic, or PM Big Time Buzzer and help him out.*** BTB, you can also PM TTDuckman (Tim) on this thread several posts up. I know he will help you out, good guy.

Sorry about that, I'm so used to just measuring drill bits with a pair of calipers. A 1/16 " drill bit is .0625 diameter this drill bit is too small. The drill bit size you are looking for is around .080. When you measure drill bits they are measured by the shank not the flutes (cutting edges). In your case here are the following drill bits you can try. The reason I'm telling you to try them is that all molds aren't made the same, so your weedguard hole may be slightly bigger or slightly smaller than my mold. What you want to achieve when you put a drill bit in the mold, is to make sure #1 that when you turn the mold over the drill bit doesn't fall out, now remember that you are trying this out in the cold state, so when the mold heats up it will expand, and so will the weedguard hole maybe? #2 you also don't want a drill bit too big in diameter, because the mold will not close tightly, and you will get flash guaranteed. Take the mold to the store, put a drill bit in it, close the mold gently, turn it over to see if it falls out, hit the mold in your hand to test this, then take the mold with the drill in it, and look to bright light source to see if there is any noticeable gap between the mold halves. If there is go down to the next smaller size. Buy a couple new drill bits in different sizes, this way you will be prepared. Now here are the variables .078125 =5/64" drill bit, .0785 = #47, .0787 = 2mm, .080 = 2.05mm, .081 = #46, .082 = #45, and .086 = #44 drill bit. I hope this helps some. If you don't understand how this is done you can always PM me............Good luck......

Yes these are consider overcoats. On the glow I do the same as GCD, I try to match the glow color with a comparable base color. I still use white base coat for all fluorescent colors. You end up using less fluorescent powder over white than you do over a raw jig. As far as temps go. There is a lot of debate about that, but I use 325 -350 degrees for 15 minutes for all my painting. Also since I do a lot of 5 and 6 color painted jigs with paint from different manufacturers, you have no other options.

There also was a guy on this site, that was selling them cheaper than Kayser. I think it was listed in the classifieds. Do a search, and you will find him. Excellent prices. I believe he only had black.

This mold does not take the std .125 base hole pin. If you want to pour this without the weedguard in place, use the shank end of a new .080 diameter drill bit. Take the drill bit stick it in the hole where the weedguard is supposed to go and pour away. It works all the time, and pours flawlessly. This jig was originally created, for guys that like a finer weedguard, instead of cutting off weedguard strands all the time. Everyone here pours to what works for them. I always pour without a weedguard, paint, bake and drill open if need be to put in the weed guard. One other thing, I do not put in full weedguards in any of my jigs that I pour. It usually is 12 to 15 strands. Most of the guys I sell painted jigs to always cut their strands off to make a suppler weedguard for better hook penetration and have asked me to put less strands in. It does work well this way also. JMHO

TJ, when this jig first came out before the catalog, it was advertised as a grass jig. It is on pg 24 of the new Do-It catalog, on the bottom of the pg. It's now called a Weedless Casting Jig. Hope this helps. My friend has this mold, and I looked at it. It is a cross between a bullet bass jig and Snootie Jig. Actually it uses the same Mustad hook as the Bullet Bass Jig. I guess it's an alright jig, but since I have the other two, I probably will borrow this when I need it, instead of buying it. He said it pours fine.

I remove the paint from the eye immediately after the jig is painted, and while the jig is still hot. I do not remove any paint on the outside of the hook eye.

They still have things that I like, however this past year, I was a bit disenchanted with them. I speak to quite a few guys there, and their service to willing to help people with questions has gone down. I hate to say it but I bought 13 lead molds, and they didn't get my business, because no-one there was willing to look into things for me. It seemed when I inquired about some things, it was a problem for them to give me answers. It's really sad, but I will still buy from them only what I need.

Check out this thread, and if you need more pics let me know, and I can send them to you later tonight. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/wire-baits/15564-mold-flipping-jig.html

I did check them and you are right .020 diameter copper wire, with a .130 +/- .002 outside diameter helix (spiral) coil. BTW this is for the copper hitch hiker. I know they have them in stainless steel, which I haven't tried yet.

You sure can I use it on every mold that uses a 1/8" base hole pin. As far as the .130 coil diameter, I will check the diameter tonight, and re-post, but I think you are right, because it fits snuggly in the base hole opening.

Very nice indeed. Gee I thought I was the only one anal about my work. It's nice to know there are more of us out there, however I don't know if that is a good thing.

I sold quite a few to some guys in South Carolina, Tenn. and Texas. I asked them for their replies. The answers were all very favorable. Color was a very big factor, along with the heavier jigs being fished deeper.

Yes, I've poured about 1000 so far. Mold works good, no problems.

Chad to answer some of your questions. Quest. #1 I hand tie all my skirts for myself with thread. It doesn't take that long with thread, but I bet wire is easier. I just personally don't like the way it looks. I do know wire works, as I have seen that here on this site. Quest. #2 I am first getting into tab skirts, so I can't comment, and I will post my info once I get into it. I am a die hard Starflash skirt user, and that never ever happens with those skirts. The bad news is that there are not a lot of colors available, unless you buy them by the 1000's. If starflash went the route of 100's more colors, I would bet, that they would be #1 in the business. Just my worth.

Check out there website, they have all their hooks listed there with prices. Or you can call Shorty's, or you can call Gamakatsu themselves.