cadman

I used to use D2T just like Basseducer, and I really like it, because if I coat my jigs, with D2T, then I only use one process. The only thing is that Devcon takes so long to dry. I currently use gel super glue, it dries fast and it's solid as a rock. The only problem with super glue is that if you use too much it wicks up, and when it dries it leaves a white powdery substsnce on the jig and the weedguard. I'm looking for another quick drying, no mess glue. I'm going to try Jimcline's idea. Maybe that's the ticket.

We all have different ways of achieving what we want, and as long as it works for us that's all that matters. I do some cheating of colors that when baked come out horrible, I found the solution for it. Not the solution I wanted, but it is what it is. I am still interested in seeing some of your work. Would you like me to PM you my e-mail. If so, let me know. Also if you have any questions, or want to toss ideas around, I would be willing to do that off line. I'm always looking for new ideas and concepts. Maybe we can help each other....BTW Thanks for the compliment.

You are correct to each his own. On the subject of melting or blending colors, I am a strong proponent of this. The reason being is this. In order to get good fusion of paints, and cross linking of polymers this should be done. I spoke to several powder paint chemists, and they explained how this works to me. I also have had many custom made powder paints for myself. Baking each color as you go does not cross link the paint chemical, but to each his own. Also when you melt each paint into each other, you get a more even transition from one color to the next. But here again this is my opinion. I would like to see some of your work, if you are willing to share. PM me if you would like. Attached are two pics of my finished spinnerbaits minus skirts and hardware. These were rejected from a lot going to a customer.

I don't want to start an arguement here, but I've been powder painting jigs for 7 years, and commercially powder painting at work for 20. You don't have to agree with me. If you take a raw jig and put 1 yellow chartreuse coat over it, and then take a white painted jig and put 1 yellow charteuse coat over it, the white jig with the yellow chartreuse over it will be brighter, hands down. If you have not done this you should try it and then tell me your results..... As far as the first coat needing to be baked to apply all other coats, that is an incorrect statement. You can bake it if you like, but it's a waste of time and not necessary. I paint (6) color multi-color jigs, once all the colors are on I bake them. I have a paint hardness tester at work, and I have tested my colored paintd jigs on the hardness tester. The results were just as hard as with one coat of powder paint. If you want to try a test at home to see how hard your paint is, take a sharp 2H pencil and write on your jig, if you must, try to scratch the cured jig with the sharp pencil with out breaking the point. If you get no impression, then your powder paint has been cured correctly, and it meets most paint manuacturing standards on TDS sheets. I also use about 20 different manufacturers of powder paint, and had them all tested. The results were similar with very little fluctuation. The fluctuation that there was between the different manufacturers was so small, that you would have more issues with wrong lead composition than powder paint failure. Just so you know I'm talking strictly powder paint here nothing else.

For my personal use, I tie mine all the time.

Does anyone have any of these hooks in 2/0. I need about 6 hooks. Please PM me, or respond here.......Thanks

I paint, bake, drill if needed, glue in weedguards and top coat if needed.

I solely use Devcon 2 Ton 30 minute (D2T) for all my jigs that have 2d and 3d eyes. I also use this epoxy to deepen my color and to better protect my jigs from chipping.

Witchlite Tape Products, here is the info for all you guys. WTP Inc. - WTP Inc. Corporate Headquarters: WTP Inc. PO Box 937 Coloma, MI 49038 USA

You received excellent info from all the sources here. The Poison tail in all the sizes pours flawlessly. Smalljaw was right on with the eye sizes. Just some info for you. 1/8

A white base is only used #1 if you are going to use fluorescent colors, #2 if you are going to use your white base as let's say the belly, and then put other colors over the white, to achive a multi-color jig. Only when you are done with all your colors, do you then bake the jig. Please note, when baking some colors, they have a tendency to blend into each other to get a different color. Purple and yellow are notorious for that. Hook-up do you have my Multi-Color Powder Painting Tutorial? This explains on how to achieve color mixing. PM me your e-mail, and I will get it out to you.

Mark, Sorry for the late welcome. I know you and I have spoken already. I'm glad, you're painting has improved. Myself and lot of other guys on TU are more than willing to help out. That's what I like about this site. A lot of guys go the extra mile to teach those who ask.

WITackleGuy As soon as you put your base coat on, yes swish it through the fluorescent color while the jig is still hot. If you are going to put two colors on, yes you could put your base coat on with a fluid bed, and then you can swish your jig in another color, or you can apply it with the paint brush method. Pro-Tech white is as white as can be. It is not a creme or off-white. To get a brighter white, you would have to add a small amount of blue color. However this has to be custom blended, as if you just put blue powder in white powder paint it will not work. One last item, I use to put white vinyl paint on my powder painted jigs for eyes. The chemicals in the vinyl paint changed my white eyes a different color, as it bled through. That was my experience with powder paint and vinyl paint. I just don

Mark, first of all, I hope you didn't put them in the oven you cook your food in. If you did I recommend you clean it and don't use it any more. Buy a toaster oven, or find one at a garage sale. Secondly, if your paint is dripping, you have way tooooooo much powder paint on it. It's that simple. Less is better. you can always add more

Thanks for posting the number, I checked to see if this would fit in one of my molds, but unfortunately no. Thanks again

WiTackleGuy First of all I am a diehard powder paint guy so naturally I am going to be biased. I’m also going to agree with A.C.T., I would never go back to vinyl or nail polish which is what I used when I first started. Either one of these, you can’t get the color you want exactly, and the vinyl paint is very volatile along with giving me a bad headache. With that said, I’ve been using powder paint for several years, and there are very few colors that I can’t match or nothing I can’t paint with powder paint. If you are going to use fluorescent colors you must use a white base. The white base brings out the depth of the fluorescent powder and brightens it. If you don’t believe me try it. As far as dark colors, I use no base color, because it is not needed. Lastly you mention pigmentation of white. I’m confused by this question. I have 30 shades/pigment colors of white powder at home. Pigmentation is a color to achieve and white is a pure color. So you can get shades of white by adding other colors. If you are talking about consistency, hardness and adhesion, every company that makes white powder paint is slightly different. Consistency is usually on the thicker side than other colors, due to white has to get better coverage. Hardness after baking is usually about 2H, that is based on a 2H drafting pencil lead,(I won’t go into this here), and adhesion is based on curing/baking is probably better than vinyl paint. This is just my opinion. If someone can share more on this, please do as I am always willing to learn. If you want to see what can be done with powder paint, PM me your e-mail and I will send you some pics.

Do you have an Eagle Claw part number for these? Thanks

UG, I have done testing with powder paints on many brands and many colors. Because of the make up of each color and each manufacturer, everyone lists baking temps. I've also done many hardness tests on a lot of paint. Here is my take on this. If you are painting panels, or computer chassis for the government or aerosapce industry, than following strict specs is a must. However after all the testing, I will say that 325-350 degrees for 15 minutes will cover 95% of all paints, with excellent adhesion and hardness after baking. I use about 30 different brands of powder, and never had any problems with that heat range. Hope this helps some....

You can use Witchlite stick on tape and cut it out to profile. The stuff is awesome.

my3sons Congratulations, on your very first jigs. Very, very nice. I like the color choices in the hair and the powder colors. One thing I noticed, is you have beautiful and tight thread wraps. People can say what they want, but when you do things right they turn out excellent.. BTW, what type of thread do you use. You can PM me if you want.

Danny P, I never use a primer. I put a base coat on my multi-color jigs, which is part of the color. On 1 color jigs I use only the color that it is supposed to be. As far as chipping goes triplextackle is dead right on his answer all paint will chip. Lot of it has to do with lead composition. Softer purer lead will chip or crack faster, because naturally it is softer and more susceptible to denting. Harder lead will take more abuse when powder painted. You have to find a happy medium based on your pouring style and skill on what lead mix gives you the best complete pours, without wasting a lot of time. Pure lead pours the easiest and you get the most complete pours. 50/50 mix is what I generally strive for, works the best for me. I can pour straight hard lead with no problems. But there are a lot of variables here. What type of mold, mold pouring angle, mold air vents, lead fluxing, heated hooks, outside temp, and what time of the year it is? I don

I have had guys ask me a lot of questions, since this thread has been up a short while. I hope this helps answer some questions, if you need more help PM me. How to apply the textured powder paint? The textured powder paint is applied the same as any regular powder paint you have. Heat jig, swish through powder, or tap on powder if you are doing multi color, then go on to the next jig. In my case I use a heat gun. I can

Nothing wrong with that, it's nice to know that there are companies out there that still take care of their customers.

Tommac, Bassassault is correct, plating I believe; around here is $50 to $75 lot charge. Also you can get powder paint, see my thread "Some Custom Colors" about three pages down. All that powder paint was custom made, if I add gold glitter to the top coat, that jig would sparkle. You can also get custom powder paint metallic powder. It is available. Rough guess on 1 lb of powder is about $100. Chemists make good money, and you have to know one, that will be willing to do that for you. Finally you can air brush it with some custom metallic copper paint. I know it’s done, I don’t know the cost, but automotive lacquer paints in metallic are expensive.

BLT, I just saw a small Turkey fryer at Bass Pro, that I want to use for the same purpose you do, as I got some cruddy lead. It is about $40 on sale for $30. It's in their X-mas Sale paper. Do you think that will do the job? I can email you a pic if you PM me you e-mail or vice-versa........Thanks Ted