cadman

Thank Guys this unit is SOLD

You should't have to clean your pot at all, as long as you don't put crap in there. Pure lead is no problem. Any lead that is clean no problem. Wheel weights and lead that has glue or grime on it should be melted in a small cast iron pot, then skim the crap off. Now take the cleaned lead with a ladle, and pour it into small mini muffin pans. When the lead cools in the muffin pans, this is about the right size to put into your pouring pot.....As far as cleaning a bottom pour pot, slowly drain you lead in a mini-muffin pan. Once all the lead is gone from you pouring pot, unplug it, and wait till it cools awhile. Now you can take some course steel wool, and scour the inside. Take off your plunger and look at it for concentricity. Clean it as well. Clean pouring hole. Blow out all steel wool, reassemble, put your lead back in, plug in and wait till the lead melts and add some more till full..... Flux lead in your pouring pot by mixing your lead with the lighted flux, and then carefully collect all the crap on top after the burn is done and put in small can for later disposal. Read the sticky above about fluxing in the wire bait forum. Excellent information......I get my lead from a printer, old style type, dentist, scrap yard, tire store. One last final bit of info. Lead is very hot be very careful. Muffin pans get very hot and heavy when filled with lead. Think extreme caution when working with lead. You don't want to get burned. Trust me you will never forget it and the healing process is very slow...............Be careful

Happy Thankgiving Guys.

YJ, man I like the color choices. It reminds me so much of all the colors I would be using in the local rivers in IL and WI. Are all those exterior colors std Createx paints, straight from the bottle? I do believe the Createx would stick really well to the textured paint, reason being the grainy texture in the powder paint. Wow your trial and error has given me some ideas for the future. Don't feel bad about trial and error. You wouldn't believe how much money I've spent and time I've spent mixing powder, painting, and then tossing it in the can when it doesn't come out right. Then start all over again. But that's how we all learn. The nice thing now, we can share this with others. If you ever need any more textured powder paint, it's listed in the Classifieds as free to everyone, except for shipping. BTW Happy Thankgiving.

I've heard that RCBS is the cream of the crop. I know they are expensive, but everyone that has one says they are really good and they like them. I have (3) Lee bottom pour pots, and yes they all drip. But it's really not that big of a deal, I just put a small can similar to what Braveviper does to catch the drip.

You received excellent advice from two of the members above. Although I do have an air brush, I am not to that stage yet. However, I do a lot of powder painting, and if you want to learn how to do multiple colors with powder paint, PM me your e-mail and I will send you my tutorial...........

I can tell you one thing it's worse in winter than in summer. The lead melts from the bottom up, and cools from the top down. My best suggestion is to make sure your pot is clean inside (you will have to empty all the lead and clean it) so there is no crap in there. This will minimize your problem, not solve it. If you have that much lead pouring out of your pot, then you have a different issue. In winter or the fall season, I always watch my pot, so there is no problem. If anyone on this site doesn't have an issue with there pot regading this, please elaborate, and tell us what the solution is. I would like to know also.

BTW, I forgot to welcome you aboard. TU will only make you crazier with all the good info from a lot of knowledgeable people. You better have an understanding wife like mine. I have woken up in the middle of the night, and came up with a brilliant idea in powder painting. Now how sick(screwed up, insane) is that. Then I would go downstairs, and try it out. Believe me this doesn't happen oten otherwise my wife would probably commit me to a nut house. BTW, my wife usually outfishes me most of the times.. But you know what, it's a psychological thing. If she catches fish and beats me who am I to complain. It's a win win situation. She brags about kicking my:censored:, and I get to buy all the tackle in the world. So what if my pride is a little hurt............

That's funny. So do you think if I tell her I want a 30 foot Fountain Boat, she would settle for a 21 foot Ranger? Hey LLS if it doesn't work and she throw's me out of the house do you have room for a freeloading guest? Bruce, you know my biggest concern? Lately my wife has been watching me mix my powder colors, paint my jigs and asking a lot of questions about jig making.:?What worries me is that she'll steal all my ideas, and start competition right in my own house. How do you handle that. I know I will be done for, when she joins TU as an alias, and answers the same questions the way I do.

I don't know about you guys, but I have the best understanding wife in the world. I buy what I want, and I spend way tooooooo much time on this hobby( addiction, part time job, insanity, lunacy...etc) and she never complains. Yes I do have a full time job to pay for the bad habit above. Only problem I have with my wife, is that she wants everything painted pink. What in God's name is all that about. Nonetheless, she is also my tournament and fishing partner. Life couldn't be better.

Currently unit on hold until payment is received.

To all TU members and viewers I currently have a lot of Powder Paint (PP) I want to get rid of. All of the PP is textured. This means it has a sandy texture to it when it is baked, see pics above. This powder is currently available in the following colors #818 smoke (Gray), #10050 White, Picker Beige, and Medical White. This powder can be shipped only to the USA. (If you

Steve, No problem, always willing to help if I can. BTW guys that

I used to fish the IL river and the WI river a lot. All the colors you guys mentioned are right on . I personally have done really well with bright pink and flourescent orange. The walleye and sauger like these colors as well tipped with a fathead minnow. BTW can you post a pic of the mold? I am very curious on what it looks like, or I can PM you my e-mail if you would rather do that..............Thanks.

Here you go guys, hope this helps. This is not for everyone, as noted in my tutorial, this was done because I use very hard lead at times. There is a solution for everything..............Ted Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf Ultra-Minnow mold mod.pdf

Yes the larger one also has that problem. The problem being the lead cools to fast before it gets( in my case) to the collar. Everything else pours perfect after that. I've opened up a big relief in the collar area, to let out trapped air, and let lead flow faster and never another problem again. Just my personal choice, but I pour 50/50 lead. 50% pure and 50% hard. In MPO, the powder paint lasts longer on the jig with this mix. But we all have to find what works for us. BTW, if anyone has any damaged molds let me know, I would be interested in purchasing if the price was right.

Thanks for the compliment Bruce. BTW there is one other thing I forgot that I can not figure out how to powder paint, and its been troubling me for quite a few years.......My house...

I kinda like the first one too. Where did you get the gold/black skirt on the one in the third picture?

Robbor, I have Do-It catalogs going a way back maybe year 2000. Are you looking for something special? I'll look at my catalogs, and let you know tomorrow. PM me your e-mail.

I am personally a powder paint person. I do jig bodies and blades. Like diemai said, you can roughen up the side of the blade you want to paint, so paint adheres better, although not necessary. There isn't anything I can't do with powder, except graphics, fine lines and dots. For those you can use markers or vinyl electrician tape and cut your own. If you want to see some pics, PM me your e-mail.

You can not use any air brush. Check out the link above that basseducer posted, for an airbrush for powder paint. The air brush I was speaking about was one that shoots liquid paint.

Yes it is.

I pour some small jigs that can be used as ice jigs. PM me if you are interested. Most ice jigs are like Clemmy said, small hooks soldered on backs of small spoons.

What is a stinger capable jig? I pour the Do-It live bait jig, which has stinger capability. Is that what you are talking about?

You can use Createx, which I know will work, but you have to put a clearcoat on after it dries. The only reason I would air brush powder painted jigs, is to get detail I can't get with powder paint. That would be like stripes, fine lines, fancy graphics, or any kind of stencil work for fins etc. There isn't much I can't do with powder paint other than what I've just mentioned. So I stick with powder paint on all my jigs. My jigs come out excellent, and I don't want to add another process, to take up more time. It just makes it easier for me anyway. Others here may chime in and give you more detail on it.