cadman

Jig Man, I believe the comparable hook to that number in EC is L3052M. I inquired about the same question with Shorty's. That is what they told me and that is what I bought. Please inquire from them and let me know here if that is still the case.

Can't help you with your question, but welcome to TU. Lot of knowledgeable guys on this site, smalljaw is one of them.

Smalljaw, Thanks for the info and explanation.

Mark what kind of accelerant is it (name) and how do you apply it.

Loctite Super Glue Gel and Gorilla Super Glue Gel both have cyanoacrylates, like regular super glue. What is happening is the cyanoacrylates is causing the powder as it flashes off and dries. This has always been a problem, You can wash it off if it bothers you, however it does have a tendency to wick up the weedguard and leave a powdery substance there also. Another way to avoid the powdery substance on these jigs, is to have a small fan blowing on the jigs as they dry. The moving air will keep the cyanoacrylates from settling on the jigs and drying. BTW welcome to TU.

Mark, yes I do drink coffee. However it is only in the morning up until about 10 or 11:00 a.m. I think you have my powder paint technique mixed up with something else. I use the paint brush tap method, no spoon involved. You get a small artist brush, dip it in the powder paint and then take the brush full of paint and tap the brush with the paint over a hot jig. That's all there is to it. That should work for you.

Mark, nice looking spinnerbaits. How do you like the textured skirting material? I have used it in the past and I like it very much mixed with the regular skirt material. It fills out a skirt for some bulk. The only thing I noticed is that you cannot over tighten the skirt when you tie it otherwise the textured skirt will separate and break off. I have never seen those triangular blades , let alone fished them. How do they swim in the water? Do they spin or sway from side to side?

Hi Mark, Back in the day before I knew nothing about powder painting, I used to use vinyl paint by CSI (Pro-tec). Anyway, once I moved up to powder paint, didn't know much about it then either. So I would spray all my lead jigs with etching primer. To my surprise with the etching powder the paint was very durable and at that time I would just gloss over the jigs with a heat gun and not use a toaster oven to bake the jigs. As time progressed, I stopped using etching primer, and would just powder paint the jigs and then bake them. So here we are in 2020, and that is the way I do my jigs. No need for etching primer, unless you decide not to bake them and or if you decide to use aerosol cans ,Createx or lacquer paint. The etching primer is a very good base coat for these paints, as it really grips the lead and the paint has a good base coat to adhere to. I still use etching primer occasionally for exotic color I cannot do with powder paint. Anyway, those spinnerbaits look really good. I really like those bluegill colored ones on the top rack. I would like to see a pic of them with the skirt on. Job well done Mark.

All the molds that I have seen are made out of aluminum, so it can withstand the heat of contstant pourings.

Joel, Are you referring to the jig head profile? If so Do-It Molds has a jig head called the Midwest Jig Head that you can use . If you are referring to the hook with barb, those are not stock hooks.

If you look on the bead package, you will see what size hole it has. Ideally a hole that is . 038-.040 will work. An .05 or .06 will work as well, it will just be a little looser. If it's not written on the package, measure it or call the manufacturer and ask them.

I use Sevenstrand and Surflon 90 #

Thanks Blackjack, I am going in to the lure making process blind. I have read a lot of info in the hard baits forum and that has helped me a lot. I am sure there are many things I don't know. Being able to design lures in cad is easier for me than doing it by hand. Once you make 1/2 of a part, you can then mirror it and you have a perfectly symmetrical other 1/2. Also my 3d printer is coming in 2 weeks, so I will have a lot to learn there along with all of winter to practice and screw things up. As far as software goes I use Solidworks. I use it at my job everyday, and we build a lot of solid models along with surfacing, so the cad side will not be a problem. I've been doing cad for over 20 years, so hopefully all of those years will pay off.

Well that is very cool. I have a lot of questions about your lure. Would you be willing to help off line? PM me as I don't want to burden you with a million questions on this forum. If not no hard feelings, I don't want you to think that I want to capitalize on your design and or ideas. I have no problem doing trial and error. That is the only way to learn. On another note, I was going to start this two ways to see what worked better. Design a one piece body with a slot for a lip or a 1 piece molded body with a molded lip similar to what you have. My other design was to make two halves (yes mirrored in my cad software) and again with a slot for a lip or molded in place.

Dave, I know where you are coming from. I was going to use indents in the body only so I can see where the hooks hangers needed to be placed. I was not going to put in thru holes. Thanks for all the help.

Attached is a pic of the round ball jig mold RHB-7-A. The hooks that are in there are Owner 5318 #1 . As you can see by the pic, the #1 hook fits the 1/16 oz cavity fine at the top by the hook eye. However, it bridges the boss at the hook bend. With the hook this way at the bottom, the mold will not close tightly and you will get a lot of flash. The solution to this is to remove that material on both sides of the mold. Now my mold is older, maybe your mold doesn't have this. If that is the case then there is no issue there. On the 1/32 oz head, you have a problem at the hook eye, where if you put the hook eye in the cavity where it is supposed to be, your hook shank will butt against the mold. This will give you incomplete pours, so you have to center the hook shank in the cavity. By doing this, you will see that the hook eye has moved. You will need to remove the mold material here on both halves so the hook eye is flush with both sides of the mold in order to close completely. Now at the bottom you have the same issue as the 1/16 hook has and the mat'l needs to be removed here as well. Hope this helps.

Hi Dave, Happy Holidays, I know you and I will have a lot of discussions regarding this. I got a lot of input regarding infill in the body cavity. 10, 15, 20 % etc. Naturally the more infill the heavier and stronger the bait. I have a lot of learning (trial and error) before I expect to get a good working model. I do have a generic question for you, since you have helped me so much in the past regarding mathematical properties, density and so on. With all of your knowledge in a different field than I, do you think that if I finally make a fully symmetrical prototype, will it be the same and/or similar to the second one, third one and so on? I do know that in the perfect world, if my infill was exactly in the same location all the time ( with the same type of webbing and percentages)and everything was symmetrically placed, I would have a perfect running lure. However, I am sure that this is not the case when an extruder is laying plastic and following a predetermined path. One last question (LOL). I know that I will be able to put indents or pocket holes for hook hangers and ballast weights in the plastic part. Once I figure out where the "correct" position is, do you think that this would be replicated correctly on every lure I make based on the same file. So if I make 30 lures of one shape, size and fill, and I place my hook hangers and ballast weight holes in the same spot on all 30, can I assume that all 30 would run the same way in the water? Dave thanks for your time. You and I will talk for sure. I have always admired your vast engineering knowledge.

Just a take over from me constantly hanging my jigs in an oven to cure my powder paint. Sometimes I have to bridge the lure (spinnerbait heads ) across my rack, because they are too long to hang vertical and put in the oven. But I have done this for years and it is simple and cheap. Since this is X-mas time, go to the store and buy the x-tra long ornament hangers. I found these to work much better than paperclips or wire. Reason being, they are very flexible. You can bend them to any shape at all, wrap them around things over and over, pull and tighten them around objects and they don't break which means you can use them over and over again. I have tried to twist these back and forth to break them and it just doesn't happen. I think this will solve your rubber band problem. If you wait till after the holidays December 26th, you can buy a box of 50 or 100 hangers for $1 or 50 cent. I usually stock up now and buy ten boxes. May be worth a try.

This is for the guys who 3d print lures/crankbaits. I have been wanting to do this for a long time, and I finally got a 3d printer. I have the cad knowledge to do this so that is not the problem. I want to ask anyone who does this about durability and a few other questions to get me started. I am not looking to steal your ideas (I can make my own designs by trial and error), I am looking for some basics. With that said I am doing this so I can learn how to build, design and redesign 3d printed crankbaits. This will be a long road, but I want to see one of my creations come to life. I am also going to pursue this in jig making. Since I have designed some plastic molds for pouring plastics, I want to expand my knowledge. Anyway, If anyone has any hands on suggestions that they would like to share or is willing to help answer some questions. Please PM me or post here. Once I get all of this up and running, I will pass along all of my info that I have learned and post some of my processes. Thank in advance.

This has been going on forever, whether in fishing or any other hobby or business. I make jigs, and have been doing it for 20 years. When I started doing powder paint it was in its infancy. I then started doing multi-color jigs out of powder paint with the tap brush method, while a good friend of mine on here Smalljaw was doing multi-color jigs using powder paint with an air brush. In 2005 we were the only two at that time doing this with powder paint. The TU community exploded asking us questions on how it was done. I was selling jigs off the wall with multi-color patterns. Myself and Smalljaw literally posted our process on how it was done on TU. This is a teaching site. To this day I do not regret people learning from what I brought to the table. Some guys were able to accomplish what I taught, others struggled and figured it out and others just could not get the hang of it. Fast forward to today. I don't sell nearly as many multi-colored jigs as I did back then because everyone is doing it. In all honesty, it doesn't bother me. This is a hobby for me, it always has been and it will always be . I cannot make a living making jigs. With that said, I try to help people when I can, and if they steal my ideas so be it. This is my perception on the whole thing. Someone will steal your idea if they can figure it out and if he doesn't then China will figure it out and steal it. It's just the way it goes. Life is too short to worry about inconsequential things. JMO

Didn't find any Gamis that would fit w/o mold mods. The Owner 5318 1/0 will not fit in any of the two sizes mentioned above. The Owner 5318 #1 hook will fit the 1/16 oz cavity w/o mods. The #1 hook will not fit the 1/32 oz cavity due to the hook eyelet being too long and the hook bend hits the boss in the mold when it closes. The hook eye can be extended in the mold with a file. The boss on the bottom of the mold can also be filed down flush and removed. If you need clarification, let me know. I will attach some pics here.

Owner 5318 hooks will fit no mods. Gami 604 will fit in some cavities. Best way to get a good answer is to let us know what size hook you want to put in which size cavity. This way guys can check to see if the hook will fit

I have found by using a small fan over the jigs as the weedguards dry, you will not get the white powdery residue, or you can use D2T.

Terry, Like mentioned above. Glue or epoxy your weedguards in after they are baked. I have been doing this for over 15 years and have no issues of weedguards falling out. There are many guys here that pour without a weedguard and then glue in afterwords. If you need more help you can PM me .

Apdriver, Very good info, I have the heavier gate shears I use for the harder lead, and the lighter ones for the softer lead. The Xuron brands gate shears are very good. Worth every penny. One final comment that you made and that is never ever use gate shears for anything else but the lead you cut. You will screw them up. Very good advice.