cadman

Tim, PM me your e-mail..............

I will answer question 2, since I've only used vinyl paint several times when I first started, and I got a really bad headache. With all the jigs I do vinyl is not an option for me. I then used fingernail polish, and that is limited to colors. Yes you can paint them with acrylic paints, like Testors, or you can spray paint them. You will have to clearcot them because the paint will not hold up like powder paint. As you can see I'm a strong advocate of powder paint. it's easy, it doesn't smell, the powder lasts forever(if kept closed), and other than air brushing, which gives phenominal results over powder painting, you just can't beat powder painting for the money. JMHO

Pete, Can you take a pic of the problem area. If it's the stud of the screw stuck in the threads, you can drill a small hole in the stud, then take a small screw extractor and put it in the hole and back it out. I can't say this is correct with out a pic. I have the Hagen's also, so I will be able to relate to you once I see it.

Pete PM me your e-mail. BTW thanks for the compliment.

Like papamark said, you have to find what works for you. Also as I stated in my above response, this is just my opinion. Fluid beds do have there place in jigs and spinnerbaits. They are mainly for one color applications, but can be used for two colors, I guess. Since I don't use them anymore like some guys do here, maybe someone else will chime in. Once you get past 2 colors I personally can't see how you can put more colors on without colors overlapping other colors in a fluid bed. I just find it is easier to use my system, since I created it and I get excellent results. There are many ways to paint jigs and spinnerbaits, so I'm not saying my way is the only way. If you want to buy a fluid bed, then it will serve you well. I would suggst you buy it from www.tjstackle.com. Benjamin's fluid beds always work right out of the box. If you want my tutorial to see how I paint my jigs, PM me your e-mail, and we'll take it from there...

Pete, Ever since I went multi-color, I rarely use my fluid bed anymore. I find I can paint any jigs or spinnerbaits with my current process with excellent quality just as fast. Maybe one color would be faster, but you can’t do multi-color with powder paint in a fluid bed. JMHO. I use the powder painting system for all my jigs and spinnerbaits, that are outlined in my tutorial. If you want to see some pics of my spinnerbaits, PM me your e-mail.

Triton Mike, Believe it or not, I do have the full colored copy of your tutorial. It

CDL, PM me your e-mail........

Zak, I'm no expert at this but that lure looks beautiful.

Ok guys, call me nuts, crazy, ready for the looney farm, or whatever, but I had some custom colors made again. This powder was very,very hard to work with, as it went on very thick. But I got it to work, and as I type this I learn something new everyday. These aren't done, as they are proto-types. But over-all I am very pleased, except my checkbook isn't. Thank god I have an understanding wife, that let's me do this and a very good fishing partner to boot.

Dubs, It wasn't that hard after all now was it? Pretty soon you'll be selling them on e-bay.......

All I can tell you is that it takes time. Rome wasn’t built in a day. When you start painting jigs, find a heat source that works for you. If you read the threads and posts here, many guys here use different ways to heat their jigs, all with the same results. If you are swishing your jigs through powder in a container, you must constantly fluff your powder. It’s a must otherwise you will get lumps and dripping paint on your jigs, especially when you go to bake your jig. As far as tutorials go, if I were you, I would start with Benjamin’s video/tutorial on powder painting and fluid beds. The more you read about this the more you will understand on what needs to be done. BTW Benjamin also sells powder paint and fluid beds at a reasonable price. Here is his link Welcome to TJ's Tackle. I also have a tutorial, but it is a little bit advanced, it covers powder painting with multi-colors. There is also some good info in there also. PM me your e-mail, and I will send it to you if you want. Lastly, all I can tell you is to ask questions and practice. My motto is this. Practice, practice, practice, and if you think you’re good, practice some more. I’ve been doing this for going on 9 years, and I’m still learning things, and I still do screw things up occasionally. It’s all a part of learning. If you have any more questions, post them here, and someone will help you out, or you can PM me.

No this does not. I used to use nail polish way back before I got into powder painting. Once it fuly dries, all the vapor disappears. Now, I wouldn't go back to nail polish because powder painting is so much easier to work with, without all the vapors. Also, you can mix and blend colors, under the sun with powder painting, which you can not do with nail polish.

Nova has got it right on the money. Acetone to thin it, and acetone to take it off anything you put on that is metal. It is also what women (maybe guys in this day and age) use to take nail polish off of their fingernails. I would do this in a area, where you won't spill any on a carpet, wood floor or linoleum floor. Acetone will eat everything up.

First of all we need you to use the correct terminology. All the wire diameter you see listed are .040, .041 and .035. The numbers you listed .35 and up would be wire all over 11/32

George, yes the back side of those are not painted. It is the original plating like the front was before I painted the front side. BTW George, I didn't forget you. You know what I mean. Also, how could I send you seconds, when only the best will do. That's like me coming over to your house and bringing you an open bottle of wine, with half of it missing. Yes you could still drink it, but a little tacky on my part wouldn't you say. Thanks for the compliment, e-mail sent

I can only speak in regards to powder painting with a heat gun, and it has always worked for me. Now that you've gotten this far, you can start doing multi-colors on a lower setting...........Good Luck, and we are all here to help each other out, so don't be afraid to ask. A lot of good guys here are willing to help out, and give advice. It's up to you and everyone else to take the bull by the horns and run with it If you want my honest opinion. No, unless you want a crappy job. Sorry for this reply to those that use a lighter.

I just poured this jig last night for a customer that wanted a little heavier hook, without the wide gap hook. The Mustad #32886 BLN fits in there really well, and poures easy. Just another option for you.

You can use Mustad #91768 and 32724 hooks. This should work. I have the 91768 hooks, and they are by far the best in my opinion, for hook setting.

If you like the paint job, I don't see why not. I personally would use D2T(JMHO). But you can use what you want. If the automotive clearcoat ruins the paint or lifts it, at least you can re-paint the blades and start all over again.

For all of you guys that inquired, about powder painting blades. Here are some of mine that were culled from an order to a customer as flawed, since they are seconds, they are mine now. The 1st pic (Perch Pattern) and the 3rd pic (BassPattern) were all done on nickel plated willow blades. The 2nd pic (Hawaiian Fire Tiger) was painted on a nickel plated hammered willow. All blades were bought from Barlow

I want to thank everyone for all the help. This is exactly what I was looking for.....Great Link Jimbo............Thanks to all.............Ted

Danny P, everything that rsinyard said is correct. First of all if you want durable blades paint them yourself. I have found that some store bought blades aren't durable enough. Also if you paint them yourself, you cn get the colors you want. I powder paint all my blades, glitter coat if I so choose, bake them, and clearcoat with D2T epoxy the 30 minute stuff. I do this also to my jigs with eyes. The finish is as hard as nails, and I've yet to chip my blades. I'll post some pics later this week...

The Tru-Turn spiraled keeper (TTK) shown here above is how us guys made shakey style jigs before Do-It Molds came up with there own version. I don

I will post the info a little later, as I'm going out the door as we speak. I have nothing against the way Do-It came up with their spring coil system. I currently have about 40 different Do-It molds, and love Do-It products. I only think, that they could have made a more durable coiled spring holding system, since all the guys here compromised and made it better. TU was way ahead of Do-It's idea, and I would have figured that Do-It would have used this idea, as I personally find the info I got here first better. JMO. I will get you that info tonight, also PM me your e-mail, if you want and I can give you some more info, without writing pages here, unless others are interested. Again by no means am I saying anything negative about DO-It in my post, so guys don't jump all over me. Use what you want, and if you're happy with it so be it...........