cadman

Reduced to $100 + shipping. If interested PM me.

You are right, their prices are comparable, but their shipping is really high. I hate to say it but I use them as a last resort.

Rico, Here are a few. There are many,many more. I am slowly building a list of all the places for tacklemaking parts. Once I finish it, I will post it here, for everyone to use as a guide. www.barlowstackle.com www.jannsnetcraft.com www.do-itfishing.com www.lurecraft.com www.worthco.com www.hagensfish.com www.staminainc.com

Happy Birthday George. Another year goes by, stay healthy and have a good one.

Ghost, All my powder painting is done with a heat gun. I personally use a heat gun also. I will talk to the guy and see if he minds the screw locks being painted. What type of tape are you using? I was thinking wide electrical tape would work best. No you can not use any vinyl tape; it will melt from the heat. Remember, how hot that jig has to be for the powder to adhere? The tape is a high temp tape to about 700°. I looked into my records, and I sold some to Bassseducer in January. If you’re interested, I still have some. PM me your e-mail address. As far as any jig that takes 1/8" base hole pins can take screw locs goes, that is very good to know. So my Weedless football jig can use screw locs? I have (5) weedless molds (Round, Snootie, Football, Poison Tail, and Arkie) they all take the same screwlok (aka Hitch Hikers). Hence I didn’t have to buy any more molds. There is no modification to the molds. Use them as you bought them. Where do you get the tru turn screw locks? Let’s refer to the Tru-Turn things as hitch hikers, since that’s what they are, and to avoid any confusion between Do-It’s Screwloks, and Tru-Turns Hitch hikers. The two brands are not interchangeable so you know. The Hitch hikers I use are medium, there are only two sizes medium and large. The medium fits in perfect in the Do-It molds. There are two types, copper and now stainless steel. Copper is soft, and the stainless steel is really hard. I have been using the copper, since I bought them over a year ago, and still have over a thousand. Stamina has the copper ones on page 38 of their 2008 catalog. Barlows, has both of them on page 58 of their 2008 catalog. Hagen’s also sells them, and maybe Jann’s. I’m not sure.

Ghost, George Reeves is right, leaving paint on the screwlock does hold it in there better, especially after it is baked. I personally don't have the new shakey molds from Do-it. I use all my original molds and put Tru turn screw locks in the mold and pour. This saved me about $150, since I have (5) molds that accept screwlocks, and didn't have to buy any new ones. If you have any molds that have the 1/8" weedguard pin, than you can make that mold shakey style with-out buying any more molds. I also tape my screwlocks, because some of my customers requested them that way. Supposedly the worms hold better with out the paint on it. I personally see no difference. Also if you do tape, it is tedious, as you will have to press all the edges to keep a clean screw lock. One other thing do not put the tape all the way to the bottom of the screwlok, you will not get full paint coverage. Do not use an open flame on the jig with the tape to heat the jig. The tape is heat resistant, not fire proof, the tape will burn and ignite. Lastly, take the tape off before you bake the jig. I believe I sold some tape a way while back to Basseducer, I may be wrong though. If you need any more help, let us all know, we'll get you up and running

Happy B-day Keith. Wishing you the best and many more. What time is the party? BTW have a pineaplle on me.

If you are storing lots of powder by the lbs. Use gatorade bottles. The inner cover seal is silicone, and it seals tight. Just wipe off the powder on the bottle lip, and screw the cover on. I've had powder in there for years without any problems. BTW, for powder I use everyday, I use the same containers. Works very well.

I have the Hagen's wire bender. It doesn't get as much use as it should. But I personally found that if I can buy pre-bent wire forms, I do in a heart beat. To me it's much easier than trying to bend wire. Unless you want a special wire diameter, than you have no choice but to bend your own.

You know I wasn't going to post anything about this, since I am a total supporter of TU and I don't want to get in a p:censored:g contest with anyone. But I wholeheartedly agree with Yankee Jigger. It's plain and simple guys. This is the way it's going to be if you like it hop on board and if not look elsewhere. Nobody is forcing anyone to sign up and pay. This is a free country do what you want and what is best for you. Don't keep on ragging on Jerry about the S.O.S. I don't want to sound incensitive but this is what is is. Either help us out or move on. This is Jerry's site, his time, effort and money invested in it he can do what he wants with it. He made a decision whether you like it or not, so guys quit whining.............Sorry if this offends you.

Happy B-day Spike, Sorry I'm late, been out for a few days, and trying to catch up on my mail, and all my TU reading info. Don't feel bad I just turned 50 this year (all right I just let the cat out of the bag for those of you that didn't know my age). I act like 30, I think like 30, but my body feels like (50....55....60...65) Aw hell my body sometimes feels like s:censored:t. But that doesn't stop me. Happy belated birthday, think young and you'll feel young mentally. The hell with the body. They do head transplants now don't they? Old head with all that knowledge and a younger body. Something to think about.

Jerry, I too am a little confused or maybe too slow. If I am entitled to a discount coupon, where is it? Also when does the membership start and when does it end? At the end of that time period do I just send you another check, to pay for another year?..............Thanks for the explanation.

Eric, If I don't say so myself, that is an excellent looking jig from the hair to the thread wraps to the paint job. I'm impressed. I like it the way it is. I would like to see it in chrome if you find what you're looking for. Guys Below are the powder color #s I mentioned I would post if you're looking for bright colors Tiger Drylac #49/24080...Fluorescent Orange/2 #49/51340...Fluorescent Green #49/52100...Glo n Dark/2 #59/20043...Neon Yellow Herbies Magic Dust #16 Bright Green #14 Blaze Orange

I pour a lot of large jigs for saltwater use. Mostly in the 3 to 8oz range, and I pour them from ww lead so they can handle the rocks and reefs better. These larger sizes take longer to cool, and so usually come out of the mold with a slightly frosted finish, instead of the mirror-finish I get with smaller jigs which cool faster. So, alas, the clearcoat over shiny lead technique doesn't give me what I'm hoping for. Yes those are big baits compared to what I pour. The best silver finish I have achieved is to foil the jig, scale texture it, and clearcoat with clear powder. That gives me a really superb silvery finish and excellent durability, but foiling a large jig takes a fair amount of time. I know I probably can't get exactly that from powder, but I'd like to see if I can get closer than I am now. Believe me I’ve tried about 12 different silvers not all chrome, and only a few have passed my test, but I’m picky. I have tried silver chrome spray on, and I got the dull effect on the jig right away after I clear coated it. Silver, gold and copper chrome are hard colors to get to work. I’ve tried Tiger Drylac, silver, gold and copper mirror chrome powders, but I did not get the effect that was stated. I then called them up, and inquired. They told me those colors only come out that bright and shiny, only after the item has been highly polished or plated. Well that sucks that just makes me add more processes to my painting. I can’t make a jig and sell it for $5 each, to absorb plating costs, so back to the drawing board. That was a costly venture to say the least. I'll take a pic of the Caswell extreme chrome and post it for your consideration tomorrow. Looks good, but it looks more like pewter than bright chrome. I do not apply a clearcoat of any type over it. I only apply clearcoat usually to jigs that have eyes, so they don’t fall off, or if requested by a customer for better rock protection. I've been using a white base coat for all colors except black. I've been told that the intensity of glow coatings is a fundamental property of their thickness. Like you said, thicker coat = more glow. This is easy to achieve with glow vinyl paint, as you simply add another coat until you get what you want-- but I reckon that's possible with powder too. Like you, I use the regular glow, as it seems to offer the brightest phosphorescence. What type of glow powder are you using? Your statements are right. However I only use a white base coat for fluorescent colors. I found by using a colorimeter and gloss meter at work that a white base coat had no added value under colors like black, brown, navy blue, or any dark color. But that was my own study at work with some customers and our powder paint guy. I’m not a paint specialist or chemist, so I can’t verify that 100%. Also, at what point do we all stop making it into a masterpiece, after all it’s only a jig or a spinnerbait. We’ll lose more than we care to think about after the beautiful paint job goes on. Trust me I’m picky, but I have to draw the line somewhere too. Eric, I use Herbies Magic Dust, and Tiger Drylac. I’ll post the part #s tonight, as I’m at work. Get the following catalogs from Tiger Drylac (RAL, Metallic’s, Special Effects and Specialties) Here is the link TIGER Coatings: Color Charts / Brochures For Herbies Magic dust here is the link Herbie's Magic Dust - Helping Fisherman Everywhere! I know it sounds crazy, but some of the small rockfish (prey species) here are an intense bright orange color. And so, a hot orange color always seems to get bit well, especially by the larger fish. That blaze orange sounds good-- I need something that's intense orange, and not a lighter 'Tang' orange, if that makes sense. The candy colors (Caswell, anyway) give me a thinner coat, and lack the opacity I'd like to have. I will check out the Drylac custom Imron and candy purples. My purple jigs are all-purple, or may have a thin white belly, but that's not critical. Automotive candy purple is the only purple I've found that will give me what I'm looking for. You are right again. The best purples I’ve seen are automotive lacquers. They are very intense. However I don’t want to get into another process with lacquers. You then have to worry about overspray, paint guns, and exhaust fumes. So, do I understand you right; don't bake the purple after it's applied over a white base? Ideally, what I'd like to have is a white base (if required), a purple coat(s), and a clear-- all baked for maximum durability. It all depends on what kind of purple you get. I think if you put purple over a complete white base, the purple will change to more of a pink (Just a guess here) after you bake it. I would do the entire raw jig purple. If you want a white belly, paint only 1/3 of the lower half white, and do the mid section and top section all purple over raw lead. Always do the belly first in white if that’s what you want, and then work from the top down the sides with the purple. This will look more natural, not the other way around. This will be an experiment for you in colors, on how they work and react with each other. Try it you will be amazed on how you learn to blend certain colors. You will have to experiment with this anyway, to see what combination you like. I don’t see a problem with a partial white, purple, clearcoat finish. However every different paint manufacturer you use will have slightly different paint chemical properties. So some are glossier, some may be epoxy based and some may have other chemical properties. It’s really a crap shoot, until you start playing around. Sorry I can’t give you a definitive clear cut yes and no. Eric if you need more help, we can discuss here, or however you want.

First, what do you guys feel is the brightest, most silvery chrome powder paint available? I

Sagacious, Give me to the end of today, and I will try to answer some questions for you, I was out last night and didn't read the thread until this morning.

Ditto Bruce, I will agree with Vodkaman here, I for one have sent out 100's of samples to guys that asked to see my work, all I ask is usually some sort of recognition. A thank you, your stuff sucks, anything, but reply somehow, that you at least got the info, or samples. I will say that majority of the guys here are very courteous in that respect. I've only had a few bad experiences. As for the newbies you don't know unless you ask. Majority of the guys here are more than willing to help. If you come with heart in hand, you'll get alot more responses and respect down the road.

KBC, Definitely hand tied. Whether you use wire or thread. I hand tie all my spinnerbaits for my own use for the same reason Basseducer said. Spinnerbaits are notorious for skirts sliding down the hook shaft with banded collars. Jigs on the other hand are not so bad. Believe it or not lot of my customers do not want hand tied jigs and spinnerbaits, even though I explain the benefits. Oh well.

You are absolutely right. All the power drives I had were slow in turning. Also the cordless models went through a lot of batteries. I also don't own a remote, too much screwing around. The Terrova took care of the power head turning problem, and is a 24 volt system. So far I love the new Terrova. I'm with you on that. On my old boat I had two 12 volts wired in parallel. I used to fish the IL and WI river a lot for walleye and sauger, and a single 12 volt won't cut it on a river with the current.

Sonny, It really is a personal choice. I originally had a 30 lb thrust Minn-Kota power drive on my first boat. never had problem. Then I upgraded to a 60 lb power drive, never had a problem with the motor. Now I own a Terrova, so far so good. The only thing I can say negative about the power drives was there foot pedals. After 3 or 4 years the little contacts that turned it left or right would wear out. It seemed like the right all the time. Maybe I should then always go left. Other than that I've been happy with Minn-Kota. My buddy on the other hand always had problems with his Minn-Kota. I don't know if it was him or the actual product. It's a tough call. I think if you buy new, you'll have the peace of mind with a three year warranty.

I understand what you're trying to say, and that makes sense. It must be new boat syndrome and paranoia. I am very anal about locking things up when I'm done, and putting all graphs away when I'm finished fishing. What people don't visually see they can't get the urge to steal. My boat sits in a gated storage facility when not in use. I was more worried about it sitting in the water, between my fishing hours when I'm on vacation for 2 weeks somewhere.

Pete, Thanks for the info. I was looking for a system that would alert me even via a transmitter, when I leave my boat at a dock for a week on vacation. Since I'm not on my boat 100% of the time. I was thinking some kind of light beam covering my whole deck, or a motion detector, when someone stepped into the boat. I'm curious what other have installed on their boats to protect against theft and breaking in.

Thanks for the compliments guys. Bruce very cool pics above. That eventually is going to be my next move, and that will be to plastics and then crankbaits, or vice versa. Now if I could do plastics like Nova, then I'd only have one more hobby to learn. I just don't have the time right now. Nova, I know that, that plastic bait is yours. That is truly amazing. I looked it up in the gallery, and all the comments you received about this bait are 100% true. I know nothing about pouring plastic, but that looks pretty complicated to do. I guess like anything else, it takes a lot of practice and knowhow. Job well done.

I just thought that in my spare time I would make a spinnerbait to celebrate this holiday. I originally was going to make red and white stripes, with a blue field and small stars. It

Yes, the old mortar and pestal, but that is time consuming, and I don't know if that will solve your problem. I don't have an answer for you on this. Has this been happening from day one when you got the paint? Maybe it's bad paint, but I doubt it. It seems like a moisture or humidity problem. I never double dunk different colors. The reason being is exactly the problem you are having with your paint dripping while baking. Too much powder on the jig. I only put on a base coat by dipping or my fluid bed. Eveything else goes on by my tapping method..........Check your PM.........BTW that was the post I was referring to, with the silica packets.