cadman

You're right about the vinyl paint. Although it has some good qualities, the only thing it gave me was a bad headache, and it smelled for several days in the house. Needless to say, I don't use it anymore.

dashepard, Like George Reeves said there is no need to buy any more equipment. I know you said you are not fond of using the brush technique. However, I and several others on this site use it with good results. Everyone here has there own preferences. Whatever you use, it all takes time and practice. The below spinnerbaits are called Hawaiian Fire Tiger. Pineapple gold base, with candy orange and candy green. Topcoat with gold glitter, and waiting for Devcon 2T. The spinnerbaits and the hammered blade all done with powder paint. Both are awaiting red gill rakers, and possibly red dot or diamonds on blades, with gold, flo orange and flo green skirts . So you see that lot of things can be done with powder paint. There are a lot of guys on this website that are good at there trade. George is one of them. So don't give up, and ask a lot of questions. Finally, practice, practice and when you think you are good at it practice some more...........Ted

Jim, My first guess says yes it would work. My concern would be the final baking of the powder in the oven for curing. I'm guessing that you should have no problems with the baking and curing also. My reasoning for this is this. I used to prime all my lead jigs with self etching primer. It was in a spray can. Then I powder painted and baked the jigs with no problems. Also when I first started this addiction, I used to spray paint some jigs and then I powder painted them years later. It seemd to work fine. I guess it depends on what kind of paint is on the spinnerbaits. Try one and see how it goes, and fill us in on your outcome. Just my worth

G-man, I would help you out no problem if I could, but I don't have any of those hooks to send you............Sorry.

ss I don't think that the heat of the lead is an issue, however the only way that can be tested is in a lab. So I don't have an answer to your dilemma. But here are some thoughts. I've never had any problem with Do-It components. However you may have gotten a bad batch of screwlocs. I'm sure if you call them, and explain the situation, they will do right by you. On another note. As corrosion resistant as stainless steel is. Stainless steel is very brittle. I'm not saying that, that is the problem. I work with all types of sheet metal, and fasteners, and give me a colled rolled screw over a stainless screw any day. Stainless steel screws will snap if over tightened. Colled rolled steel will usually strip out. Copper is very flexible and soft, also corrosion resistant for a shorter time. Copper also bends very easy, and will break also............Just some info for you, although this won't solve your problem.

Hi George, You're not outnumbered. Everyone has the right to post their experiences. That's what helps everyone decide for themslves, right or wrong. Now if my screwlocs start breaking on me, I'm just going to send all of my broken jigs to basseducer, and blame it on him for starting the jinx. Just kidding.........Happy Memorial Day guys.

ss Ditto........I use the Tru-Turn copper and stainless steel screwlocs, and never had any break either, like basseducer said they bend and do distort. Hopefully not jinxed x2.............

Happy Birthday Jerry. Thanks for the great site, you've done a lot for all of us with the information superhighway.

PM Sent

Hey guys, I've been a die hard Starflash and Hydrosilk user for 8 years now. I know they are not cheap, but the quality and longevity is unparalleled to anything I've used as of yet. I love both of these skirts. Starflash for their durability, and Hydrosilk for their fluidity in water and softness. I know you can buy these direct. Also you can buy Hydrosilk by the rolls, and then make your own skirts. Below is the info I have for both of these companies. I don't believe either have a website, but they do have catalogs. Hydrosilk Skirts Manufacturer : Timberlake Mfg. 650 South 13th St. Indiana, PA 15701 Ph: 724.465.8735 Fx: 724.349.3724 StarflashSkirts Manufacturer: Kayser Lure Corp. P.O.Box 68 Ursa, IL 62376 Ph: 217-964-2110

Guys, If you are looking for micro-mesh PM LedHead for fluid bed media. I also have a tutorial on how to make a fluid bed if you are handy in the tool department. If you just want to buy one, go to TJ's tackle, Benjamin will sell you one straight out of the box, ready to go. You can't beat the price, and he's a really nice guy to deal with. If you want to learn how to powder paint take a look at Tj's video on his website. An excellent tutorial. I also have a tutorial if you are interested. PM me. The more information you get, the better you will be at it. All of this takes time and practice. So don't get discouraged, someone on this site will help you out.

Shipping to 45040 would be $12.00 parcel post, which would take 5 -6 days.

You can also use the wire rod they use for welding. Our welders use them. It comes in 36" long sticks, in a wide variety of diameters and in a wide variety of materials (ie. stainless steel ,aluminum, copper, brass, cold rolled steel and a few other materials.) Just my worth.

Jerkn, Sorry this post is soooooooo late. I read all the posts in this forum, and forgot about it until it came up today. As far as candy color powders, they are excellent on smooth and hammered blades. With a good clearcoat after the paint it is excellent. Also if you haven

Brand new, Jiffy 6 x 10 padded mailers with self stick flaps. 15 cents each + shipping. Minimum of 50 per order, maximum whatever you want. Pics available. Pm me if you're interested. Moderators ad/s are approved by Redg8r & need to be moved to the classifieds sect., when available.

Clear Matte Powder topcoat, and powder paint for sale. Clear coat is $10/pound and Beige textured mini-tex is $6/ pound. All items + shipping charges. If you want a sample, it can be mailed. Sample powder $1.50 for postage, and will be deducted from your invoice if you purchase any powder. Try before you buy. Powder is non-returnable and monies non- refundable. PM me if you're interested. Moderators ad/s are approved by Redg8r & need to be moved to the classifieds sect., when available.

Lowrance 1600GPS w/manuals, instructional video, and tracking antenna in box. Used. $200.00 O.B.O + shipping. Excellent condition. PM me if interested. Moderators ad/s are approved by Redg8r & need to be moved to the classifieds sect., when available.

Lowrance X-85 fishing graph in excellent condition for sale, w/speed and temp, 3000 watts power w/internal back up memory. $150.00 o.b.o + shipping. Unit is in excellent condition with all manuals in box. Used. PM me if interested. Moderators ad/s are approved by Redg8r & need to be moved to the classifieds sect., when available.

Powder paint, cure paint, weedguards, 3d eyes, stick hooks in styrofoam head up, brush on Devcon 2T 30 minute. Let dry 24 hours. Go fishing

I don't have issues with Eagle Claw. Actually I find the 570 hooks IMO to be sharper out of the box than Mustad. On the bigger hooks it seems that they just are not as sharp. I have no problem sharpening them, it's just that some of my customers do not like Eagle Claw.........Thanks for the help.

Can anyone tell me if there is an exact match for the hook mentioned in a Mustad brand. I'm going to be using these in a Do-It Sea Horse Mold, model #PHC-4-A in 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0 sizes.......Thanx Guys

No problem guys, I'm always willing to help if I can. As far as the hooks, it already cost me money the first time, too bad it was too late. That's what this site is for, to pass along helpful info. My feeling is why should someone else go through this all over again, when I went through it already once. Stuff like this saves us all money and aggravation, so guys please pass along helpful info to all of us. Just don't start bashing businesses for their lack of knowledge. We all make mistakes, and sometimes it costs us money. Live and learn........

Just a tip on the 1623's. If you are going to use this on the stand-up jig from Do-It molds. Do not buy the hooks with the straight shank. Buy the 1623 CR (crimped shaft). Reason being, that when you pour with the straight shank, the hook will move and or spin in the jig once its cool. Trust me I've been down this road my first time around, and found out the hard way. I learned later from Do-It molds about this. I don't know why the supply houses we buy from don't state that info next to the mold. It would save a lot of guys a lot of aggravation. Probably the suppliers don't know either.