cadman

Widowmaker, I have used Devcon 2 ton (30 minute from day one). I did get the best tips from someone here on TU. Take an aluminum empty beverage can, and turn it upside down. On the bottom of this can you have a nice shallow dish. Mix your epoxy in there. The aluminum of the can pulls the heat away from the mixed epoxy, and slows down the curing process. Also another tip from here, was to keep the epoxy cold, like in the fridge, it lengthens the working time. The only drawback I found with this is. The colder the epoxy the longer the working time, the harder it is to brush on. The wamer the epoxy the shorter the working time, the easier it is to brush on. I choose to use it at room temperature. After I brush it on, somtimes it is thicker, then I go over it lightly with a hair dryer, but this is rare. It covers and levels out really nice right after it is mixed. I never dilute Devcon, try the hair dryer first.

Well I'll tell you one thing I have not solved this problem yet. I fish #5 and #7 shad raps, and depend on how long I fish them, my line is trashed in 5 hours, and definitely by the end of the day. I went to Triple Fish camo line, it helped some but not enough. I replace my line everytime I'm done fishing. That's why I went to less expensive line. Also I never broke any line, cause it is constantly re-spooled. I do know that when I cast, I can see the shad rap spinning in circles as it comes off my rod. I do fish with a spinning rod, and no swivels. I do use speed clips though. I would definitely like to find a solution. Adding stick on lead weight on the bottom of the shad rap has helped also.

Hey donkjc2, that is very interesting, Ive never seen that tool before. Thanks for the link.

For all you guys that like the old SkirtMaster (3 pronged) tool, well their is bad news and their is good news.....Bad news:cry: ...I searched for this tool and to no avail, I can't find it anywhere here in my neck of the woods. They were last sold in 2004 in Barlow's, Bass Pro, Stamina and Jann's catalog's. Apparently the person who had the business sold it.... Good news:yes: ... In about 6-8 months, there is going to be a SkirtMaster tool Pro, which will be better than the old one. As soon I find out more info, I will post it here, with a link, contact or phone number.

I don't want to start a war here, but I will have to agree with Siebler on this. I sell a lot of painted and unpainted jigs, and people that know me know my quality and my "tech support help" that goes with my product.I am not perfect, and have my share of pitfalls. But I can not and will not knowingly sell any painted jig, that has not been cured properly. Also I only clearcot jigs (after they are cured), that have any 3d of flat eyes. This is just the way I am. I'm not saying I'm right. I fish a lot of rivers with jigs, and they do get abused on the rocks, and yes they are a dispensible commodity, but I won't sacrifce quality for any money in the world. My pride goes with my product. Just my worth.

Smalliehunter, why do you want to go back to pouring with the weedguard in place, versus what you are doing now?

Bamabass, yes it can be done, cause I am in the process of doing it right now. I can't go into detail, but I can give you some help. You can buy metal sleeves with rattles in them. Then you place them in the mold, and pour your lead. Two things to overcome. 1 is positioning of rattles, and 2 is the problem of lead is used many times as a sound deadener. So your rattles won't be as loud. Good luck......

Rollo, the easiest way to do this is to file a groove in the mold where you have the problem, or you can use a dremel. I only file one half of the mold side, on all cavities, if they all give you the same problems. You don't need to do both sides of the mold. Filing vent holes for me is a last resort. Make sure you try everything possible before you do this. It's not a problem to file vent holes, it's that sometimes like I posted earlier, you might have to tilt the mold one way or another to get excellent results. Also do not file any other surface on the mold halves that you don't need, because if you do, and you put a gouge in the mold face, you will get flash. So take your time, think it through and have at it. If you screw it up you can always use JB weld to fix your mistake. One last thing. When you do put in vent holes, you will get lead sometimes seep out where the new vent hole is. It looks like a small sprue, depends on how deep you file your vent hole. Don't worry about this sprue, it's no different than the pouring sprue you get when you pour lead. Just cut it off after the jig has cooled. If you want pictures and an explanation on how to do this, PM me with your e-mail, and I will send you detailed pictures, of how I did some molds. Guys I have nothing to hide here, so this goes to all TU members. The reason I don't post it is that the file size with the pictures is about 4 meg. If anyone else doesn't understand this, just PM me......Take Care Ted

Microtek, about 8 years ago, when I started pouring, a guy told me to put a chunk of beeswax, to every full pot I pour (to help in pouring), and then add more as I add new lead to the pot. I told the guy I couldn't find beeswax, so he said candle wax will work also. I have been doing this ever since. I can't tell you for sure if it helps pouring, but I know I don't have any problems except for the ones I mentioned in a couple of posts above. I'm curious if anyone else does this?????? And what is their reason.....

Predator, I have roughly 30 molds that I pour. Each mold has its own characteristics. Some molds will pour completely parallel, some need to be tilted slightly nose down, others slightly nose up. I don't smoke my molds, I do use pure lead no mix, and I do use candle wax in my pot. First of all before you put hooks in the mold to pour, save yourself some time, and pour as many blank pours(without hooks) as you have to to get good consistent pours. Watch which way you hold the mold, to get consistent pours, then right it on the mold for next time. Only then start putting hooks in. Also the mold has to be hot. I live in the midwest and I can not get good pours when its cold outside. The mold and the lead cool too fast. Also like Richoc said drill or file vent holes in the mold, where your shorts are, you may have trapped air, which will not let the lead flow through. I had to do this to my Poison Tail, and it pours perfect every time. If you have any more questions, or need any more help, you can PM me.......Ted

I use Devcon 2T (30 minute) also. I stick my jigs in styrofoam standing straight up. Head on top hook barb in styrofoam. On spinnerbaits I do the same or you can clamp them with alligator clips. I do not rotate my jigs. I also do not thin my epoxy. I just mix, brush it on, and that's it. I rarely if never have any runs down the hook shaft. That's how I do it.

Shawn I use the same thing as WidowMaker, They are very handy. By the way guys I tape all my loose strands on the skirt, and make a point out of the tape, then I stick the tape with the skirt in the tool. It makes it much easiser for me anyway. WidowMaker..... Where do you buy your SkirtMaster from. I've looked around, and have not seen it in any of the catalogs. I do have the manufacturer info though. I want to buy another one just in case I break mine.....Thanks Guys.

robbor, if I understand you correctly, you poured a lead weight, and now you want to imprint or imbed a number on it correct? If so you can get the metal number stamps (they also make letters), and place the number on the weight, then lightly hit the number stamp with a hammer. It will permanently mark, or imbed your number in the lead. If you want it deeper, just hit the stamp harder with the hammer. Lead is soft, and you should have no problem.

Charkins, I am not a fan of pouring lead with weed guards in place. I know that guys do. By the way if any one does do this process PM me. Anyway. I found that you get better coverage, and better paint job(IMHO) if you pour the jig without the weed guards, powder paint the jig, drill out paint in hole, bake, epoxy weed guards in place. That's it. Like maximusgunn stated, you can drill out a hole in each mold to make a weed guard using a 1/8 " drill bit. When your done, get yourself 3-6 #30 (.1285) or #29 (.1360) dia drill bits, and use these as your guide pins for weed guards. The reason you use the.128 or .136 dia. drill bits, is that when you put these in the new holes you drilled with the 1/8" drill bit, and you close the mold halves together they won't keep falling out when you turn the mold over to pour the lead. An 1/8" drill bit doesn't exactly drill out a 1/8" hole. I don't know about Hilts molds, but I don't know if you can do the "Y" guard in the Do-It either. I thought only fiber guards. If you want, I have some DO-It mold pins I can send you PM me.

sim, I get most of my bits from Menards, and Home Depot. Both stores carry different bits, also not always either. Seems that if it doesn't sell well, they put it on clearance, and I buy them all. These bits are really good, however fragile, and will break. Also, I believe you can order them direct from Dremel. Also I buy them from McMaster Carr, they have a small variety.

Hi Ron, I use the small round one and the pointed one. Also I use small miniature files. Here are the Dremel part no.'s...100 series bits, 7103, 7105, and 9901 thru 9912 series. I have probably 20 different ones for different applications. You never know which one will do the job.....

Yes you must bake the Blade Dip, as it will stay on better. Eventually like everything else it will come off. But if you don't want to bake don't waste your time. Oh yeah.....300 degrees for about 10-15 minutes....Doesn't have to be exact.

Spike-It Blade Dip. You can use any of the 8 colors. It looks better on bright nickle hooks.

Can someone let me know where I can find info on replacing rod tips. What does a good rod tip cost, and how do you apply it, so it doesn't come off. I have guys in my fishing club, who want me to do this. However I want to make sure that I do a good job, so it doesn't fall off. Out of curiosity, does $5 a rod seem low, fair, or high completely finished. I would appreciate any info...Thanks

Well thanks for all the input guys. It looks like the shakey head evolved into more than what it used to be. That's ok with me. Now I have an idea on what all this is, and how it got started. At least now I don't have to shakey my head any more and try to figure this out. Ted

Ok Guys, you all got me confused. Can someone explain the following to me. What makes a shakey head jig a shakey head jig. I thought that a shakey head jig was a round jig with a longer hook? Now I see in these posts, poison tails with hitchhikers, football jigs with hitchhikers. And guys are calling them shakeys??????????? Somebody help me straighten this mess out in my head. I read all these posts and only shakey my head.

If you know someone with a laser, you can get it cut to any profile you want. Also you get a very clean edge. I program turrets and laser. So it can be done. However it is expensive.

LedHed, I only drop the really small jigs in water. 1/8, 1/16, 1/32 oz. The reason being, is when they are that small they take less time to swish in the paint, and in my haste when I'm on a roll, I have dropped more hot painted jigs on the floor than racked. I know it's an extra step, but I think I save more time by painting and dropping them in the water, than painting and trying to rack them and dropping them on the floor. When I'm done I take them all out at once and rack them. Maybe my fingers are un-coordinated.

Party Crasher are you curious on what kind of paint they use, apparently it is pretty durable, if you find out let us know. You can take any PP off with a heat gun. The heat will burn the paint, and harden it. At this point you can peel it off or scrape it off. Be careful cause it's Just don't overheat it and melt the lead. Actually it's cheaper to toss it , and pour and re-paint a new one, by the time you get done screwing around with it. Grub_man, I totally agree with you, on some days, un-painted jigs work better, also I know many pros use un-painted jigs. But I do believe that color is an added plus, and you can show off your work to your friends. Plus color makes them look so pppuuurrrtttyyy. As far as making, painting and pouring your own jigs, you came to the right place. Myself and many others in this forum, are more than willing to help guys out on the right track. The rest is up to you. Ted

Grub_man, you may be right on that. Except for one thing, if I have to bust out the eyes and bake a commercial jig and pay money for it, then what's the point? Not a stab at you just a statement about some of the commercial crap out there.