cadman

Hi Guys, I have the same questions as PaBasser, along with how do you get the blade on the hook. If someone could give me the different sizes of blades, that go on the different sizes of jigs, I would be willing to make a drawing, and post it on this site. I would like to make some of these for myself to try out, but don't know where to start . Getting material and getting them cut , and or bent is not a problem. Is there anyone out there willing to help out with some of this information. Thanks Ted

Hi Guys, I normaly don't post here, so I'm asking for some help. I have been using Bass Pros Extreme (54 modulus) med. light rods now for about 10 years, and some of them started to snap and or shred at the top 6" . My question is this, do rods get old with age? Also I'm in the market of buying some new ones. Why would I or should I buy a G. Loomis, Fenwick, or a St.Croix versus another Bass Pro Rod. Are their any better for around $100 each. Thanks for all the help. Ted C.

You can try a couple of things. Since I am a powder painter this works for me so it might work for you. Take some small aluminum foil, and wrap it aroud the entire swivel. Since you are using vinyl paint, try masking tape and tape the entire swivel. Then when your paint is dry peel or take it off.

The only reason I use the looped wire, is because I change my lures constantly, and with the "R" bend, the quick snap, never stays in the bend of the "R"

I work with a lot of stainless steel sheets and wire. I know for a fact that you can tackweld it for sure. Since the wire is so thin only a couple of small tacks would work, and it will never break. The only problem is you need to know some one who can weld, or weld it your self.

Hi guys. I'm looking for information on what is the correct length of the spinnerbait arm, that holds the blades, beads and clevises. I use preformed closed loop wire forms in 1/4 oz., 3/8 oz., and 1/2 oz. Is there a formula, or some place you can direct me for the answer to this question. Thanx to all Ted.

Thanks guys for all the help....Cadman

Hi Guys, I'm inquiring about the difference between Lumaflex and Flashabou. I want to add some sparkle to my bass jigs and spinnerbaits, both which have skirts. Which one do most of you use and why. Thanks for all the help.

Hey robbor. This is the info I can give you. First of all I have been doing this for 25 years, and the last 8 years with a program called Cadkey and Solidworks. First of all you need a solids package to create the image, which you must then extrude out of a block of metal. This definitely can be done with autocad. Problem is as with all cad packages, you must know how to do this. Normally I can finish a simple mold drawing in 20 to 30 hours. A custom mold say like the ultra spin by Do-It molds can take up to 80 hours, just to get the details right, and I have been doing this a long time. Now you have the machining cost if you are going to put this on a matched pair of aluminum blocks. Unless you are very versed at the cad package, it will take you at least 1 - 2 years to learn all the aspects of it, and be proficient at it. Going this route is very rewarding, however you will put in many hours , including the frustration. If you need more info on this, pm me. Cadman

I have not used Jann's. However don't limit yourself to Pro-tech powder paints. I have used Pro-tech, Herbie's Magic Dust and other comercial name brands that I got free. All of them worked to my expectations. Jann's is privately labeled, so as far as we all know it could be Pro-tech. Buy a small batch and let us know what kind of results you got. It will help everybody make a decision down the road.

I am thinking of taking drawings/pictures of some of the jigs and spinnerbaits I make, and putting them in a catalog. Which then I would hand out and sell to friends. My question is this. Since all my molds are by Do-it, I will be making the Ultra Minnow Spinnerbait, and the Snootie jig, among others. Can I call the drawings/pictures in my catalog, Ultra Minnow Spinnerbait, and Snootie Jig? I want to say no to this question. If this is correct, what do you guys do when you are selling 20 or 30 different jigs, spin'r baits and other items? What do you name all your varieties. Thanx for the help.

First of all why titanium? The stuff is hard to bend ,and hard to tune properly and twice the cost of stainless. But anyway you can get it at www.mcmastercarr.com. I just happened to look in there catalog and they have exactly what you want. Good luck Ted C.

First of all anodizing is a process only on aluminum, so all your blades have to be aluminum. I know for a fact that there is a wide spectrum of colors now available. Locally by me there is usually a lot charge, depends on the color. roughly $50 - $100. You need a lot of blades to re-coop this cost. Also just like any other material, some aluminums anodize better than others. Also the finish looks much nicer on good clean aluminum. Check your local yellow pages, this is a very common process.

Pickeral Pete is absolutely right. If you re-read the reply I sent you a couple of posts down on your first. It should help. Do-not keep the hot jig in the powder to long, do not bake the jigs at too high of a temperature. Every paint color has its own quirks, also every paint brand has its quirks also. You must keep the paint fluffy. If its too humid where you're at, try to have two containers of the same paint. Keep one in a very dry place, then use the other one', then alternate. Every paint manufacturer has its own cure time and temp. Pro-tech is pretty consistent. I bake(cure) all my jigs at about 325 deg. temp. for about 15 min. You will have to do some trial and error to see what works for you. Also if this is a hobby, which I'm sure it is, do not use good everyday household items.

Like Jigmater said. don't use anything but 300 series stainless wire. If you do general fresh water fishing 304 stainless is excellent for strength and corrosion resistance. If you want to fish salt water, use 316 or 316L. The "L" stands for low carbon, which is better than 316, plus the cost difference is minimal. I will say one thing, I like straight rod over coil any day. However, it is only available in weld rod or minimal grades. Seems I can't get the coil to the straightness I want. Ted.

Jim and Pop. I have been using Pro-tech powder paints since I started, and I have very good success with them. You can buy Pro-Tech from Gander Mtn., Ed Shirleys, or any of the mail order houses. The mail order houses will be cheaper if you buy alot of colors. I will tell you one thing, powder painting in the summer with all the humidity takes a toll on keeping the powder dry. My worst color to apply is white. However I have been getting some different samples of different white paints from different powder paint manufacturers to see if they go on better. As far as baking them on, I use an old Black and Decker spacesaver oven, in which I made a hanging rack out of aluminum sides and threaded rod. The threaded rod keeps the jig hooks from sliding onto each other, especially after I take them out, and they are still hot. Believe me they will stick to each other and screw up your whole lot, if you aren't careful. If you want more info, I will be glad to help, just PM me. Ted

Jim, I use powder on all my jigs and spinnerbaits, with very good success. I find it easier for me to work with. I apply a white base coat on all my flourescents, then add two to three colors more. On black and brown colored jigs I don't use a base coat. I use my jigs on the WISC. River. I lose more jigs there with all the rocks, than I have problems with paint chipping. If your going to use powder, just make sure you bake it on. Cadman

Hi Guys! Does anyone know who makes the #7 Do-It Line Grip Swivel Insert for Do-Its Drop Shot Molds. I found that Barlows has them the cheapest price. $6.95/100 or $62.55/1000. Does anyone get them cheaper than this? If so please let me know. Thanks for all the help.

Devcon is a high strength epoxy. I learned about it from all the posts in this forum. The stuff is excellent. It is called Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy. Get the 30 minute working time epoxy. I got mine at Walmart for $2. It is a 2 part epoxy, which you put equal amounts of the two parts on a piece of clean cardboard, mix it together, and I brush it on the whole spinnerbait after it is complete. It goes on smooth and dries beautiful. Read the instructions on the package. I have been trying to PM you for a question I have. PM me back. Ted

I powder paint all my jigs and spinner baits also. I put on all my 3D, and 2D eyes with a small drop of super glue, after the jigs are cured in the oven. Let dry. Or you can just paint them on.

I've been pouring plumbers lead (which is very soft) and powder painting jigs for about two years. Sometimes I put three different colors on my jigs, which I bounce on the bottom of rock and shale on the WI. River for walleye and sauger. I do not get chipped paint. Like Triple C said you have to cure the paint by baking it in an oven. The powder paints I use are Protec, Herbie's Magic Dust and some cutom blended paint, all with excellent results. I do not use vinyl paints, only to paint the eyes on the jigs. I find the powder is easier, and with no smell. If you need more info PM me.

Just a question for my own use. What is the purpose of rusting rivets?

Triple C you are absolutely right, and thanks for the response. Since I'm unemployed now I finally have read all the posts in this forum. It answered all of my questions so far. :oops: Sure helps to read before you ask stupid questions. A lot of good information in this forum.

I assume you're looking for stainless steel. Most of it's available in coil. I don't loke coil since I don't know how to straighten it so I buy cut pieces. Stamina, Barlow's, and Jann's Netcraft all carry coil .011 - .051, and Jann's Netcraft and Stamina carry 6- 12" pieces in .051 thk. with and without loops If you can't find it there , McMaster Carr has straight pieces from 12" to 24 " in .020 to .063 in soft and hard temper. www.mcmaster.com or 630-834-9427. hope this helps

Hi guys I'm new to TU and new to posting, so if I do something wrong I apologize ahead of time. I've been powder painting for a year, and have only used a white base paint for florescent colors. I've never used a top coat. Now I'm painting 200 lead jigs at a time and want to paint some later plu I want to do it right. Why use a primer and top coat? What brand of primer and top coat? Where to buy, and how to apply. If the process is to long to explain here I will gladly e-mail someone. Again I'm new to this so bear with me. Thanx for all the help.