cadman

I'm getting into tube fishing and trying to put tubes onto tube jig heads and my question is this. What is the easiest way to get these on? I am thinking anise oil so the tube slides easier over the jig. Any better ideas. Is anise oil a good choice or should I use something else to make it slipperier so it would go on easier. Thanks for any help.

Welcome to Tackle Underground. Google The Fly Shack and see if those work for you.

You have a PM

Wow, that's pretty interesting. I didn't know that there were so many.

Depends on how much you want to defend your idea/patent if there is one. Also you will need deep pockets and lawyers to protect it. If you have all that then you can do what you want. I look at it this way if it was my idea then I would want to protect it as much as possible from others copying it.

Thank You for the explanation. With that said, what you made is pretty cool.

I don't know what a pressed penny is so pardon my ignorance. But is that an actual round penny that you take and press into some mold to get the French blade. Then I assume you drill a hole in it?

You won't be sorry. I use that jig 95% of the time and I catch a lot of bass.

I have both Poison Tail molds, the Snootie mold and the Grass jig mold. They are all good jigs to use for swim jigs. Reason being they have a straight eye versus a flat wire which will always catch more grass. I personally like the Snootie jig because it has a 60• eyelet. This lets the jig run more parallel to the weeds if you tie a loop knot. The good thing about all three of these is that they go down to 1/8 oz which is what I use most. You can’t really go wrong with any of them. BTW welcome to Tackle Underground.

Good Info Mark.

Welcome to Tackle Underground

Oops, I'm sorry, I didn't know they had a different Midwest Finesse mold. I don't have that mold. I guess you can still check some of the things I mentioned above. BTW, how well do you do with that jig head? You can PM me as well. Thanks

I made an order yesterday, and everything went through. I also received a receipt confirmation as well.

Jig Man, I pour mostly hard lead in that mold in hopes of getting the keeper from loosening up and it doesn't help but I don't have lead going up the hook shank. Also I don't use Victory hooks. Couple things could make this happen. #1 The Victory hooks are thinner than the shank cavity in your mold leaving a gap and the hot lead is seeping through. If you have always used Victory hooks, maybe a new batch and the hooks are thinner or maybe a couple of hooks are thinner in the current batch? Just guessing here. #2 You have some lead or foreign substance on one of your mold halves that is gapping your mold causing lead to seep through. On the latter, take a single edge razor blade and lightly run the blade across both mold halves. This might dislodge any foreign substance that you may not readily see. Once done check your pour. On the first one, if you have a different brand hook check to see if you have the same problem. Post your results when you find your solution.

Thanks for all the n input.

Thanks For the info.

Where do you guys get your plastic bags for 5"-6" Senko style baits. Need ziplok and so they won't leak.

I use beads and tubes as well. If you keep the lower blade kind of in the middle of the wireform arm it works the best. You don't want it hitting the top blade and you don't want it to hit the body of the spinnerbait. What you have looks good. It will also depend on how big of blades you use top and bottom. I have attached some pics of some of the spinnerbaits I have made in the past.

Very good information. Thank You. I can attest to the fact that worm weights are impossible to remove the pull pin from the center. Been there tried that. Also smooth jigs come out of the mold a lot easier than jigs with a lot of cuts and features, tried that as well. I wish I had known this a lot sooner but trial and error is the best teacher. Thanks Again for your info.

Well thanks for the info. Yes Bismuth is easy to pour but tough to remove from the mold as you mentioned. Also tough to file the excess sprue material. I have had to literally dig out some bismuth heads from molds. Even "Drop Out" doesn't seem to help too much. It seems that lead shrinks some when it cools in the mold and bismuth seems to expand. Just my observation. Thanks Again f0or the info.

I have and still use bismuth to create the same size jig except the jig is lighter. The difference between lead and bismuth is this: Bismuth is lead free especially for some states that require lead free jigs. You can pour bismuth at home without any problems, can't do that with tungsten. Bismuth is about 1/3 less in weight than lead. Bismuth is very hard, and if you cast it at a brick wall hard enough it will crack. However I never had this happen yet. Bismuth has a low melting point, so if you intend to powder paint it, it can be very tricky. I suggest you rough it up, spray with self etching primer and air brush with lacquer.

I don't have any fluoro that heavy, however have you ever tried sevenstrand or surflon stranded stn stl wire with nylon coating?

bassjiggin1955, Thank You for taking the time to teach me how you tie those jigs. At first it is very frustrating, but after a 100 or so (LOL) it gets somewhat easier. I will be adding your lions collar when I get some free time. Thanks Again for all of your help.

I wouldn't call it a 28 or 30 degree. It is a flat eye offset worm hook.

Which mold are you referring to. If it is supposed to use a 30 degree hook, than a Mustad 32886 might work as well.