cadman

Just remember, if you screw it up don't panic. JB weld works really well on Do-It molds, and once it fully dries/cures it can be machined again.

I've looked around for a couple of years, and was unable to find a supplier. Hopefully someone else can chime in and help out.

If you have a strand or a skirt with the color, send it to fishingskirts.com and they may be able to match it for you. BTW welcome to TU.

The only companies that I know of are Mustang Wire and Ohare Spring. They will make you anything you want, however your quantities have to be in the thousands. Like 5-10K. quantities. Call them and get some quotes. http://www.mustangwire.com/ http://oharespring.com/fishing.htm

BTW Welcom to TU. There are not too many hooks that will fit that mold, without the mold being modified. Your choices are the std 28º degree Mustad #91768 hook (more of an EWG hook) or the Mustad 30º #32886 round bend hook. There are also some VMC hooks that might fit along with a EC #L3886 hook which is Eagle Claws version of the Mustad hook listed above. Both hooks listed are high quality. You have a PM

I use x-cel spreadsheet

I'm thinking the OP wants the head to look like picture provided. Not very many options there in saltwater from Do-It. I know he can mod the Poison Tail mold. He also mentioned saltwater, but you can use black nickel hooks in saltwater. The hook he is showing in the picture is not a saltwater hook, so I don't really know what the OP is looking for. Also for an 1/8 oz head, if you want a heavy hook, you will have to modify the mold. Not many big hooks (EC 635) are going to fit in a 1/8 oz mold .

I use spray as well. I will tell you this. Make sure you tape off everything that you don't want sprayed, like the hook bend and the hook point. Once you spray etching primer on, it seems difficult to get it off of anything. I spray outside as well, as the fumes are a bit strong.

Why not use the Poison Tail jig, and fill the first ring collar with silicone. You can also use a Mustad #32886 hook which is pretty heavy.

Hey Mark, I still use etching primer for my lead jigs , like you mentioned. The spray jig with paint and clearcoat. It has worked for me for many years and still does today.

When I paint bismuth and use powder paint, I have to lower the temp, so I don't melt the bismuth. Other than that, I have no problem pouring lead-free. Some molds release the bismuth better than others. The ones I found that are easier to release are jigs with smooth surface and no features on their sides. Like a round head jig, Bullet bass, or football jig. The Poison Tail mold is troublesome, but I manage to get good pours. I know there is a lot of debate about lead and lead-free jigs, but I try to accommodate everyone.

Welcome to TU. If you are referring to tin jigs as jigs made out of Lead Free (bismuth, tin , pewter) than I do cast quite a few of them in my standard molds. There are some drawbacks to this but , some New England states have a ban on some lead jigs. With that said, no lead jigs are harder to release from a mold, and since their melting point is lower, it is harder to powder coat them. Lead free jigs are about 1/3 less in weight size for size than lead jigs. Also I don't know what you are using, but bismuth is about $15.00 per/lb, which is pretty expensive compared to lead prices about $2.00 /lb. In fishing with lead versus bismuth/tin/pewter. I see no difference, other than if you need to get down deeper quicker, you will need a larger jig head profile if you go with anything else but lead. I fish a lot of 1/8 and max 1/4 oz jig heads for bass, and I fish them in lead and bismuth. No difference at all as far as quality or bites. Just take a little longer to get thru the water column.

Pete, I would like to know your thoughts and results as well. Also what is the shelf life. Thanks.

Most people top coat with Devcon 3 Ton 30 minute epoxy or Envirotex (E-tex). There are others as well.

Welcome to TU. You have a Pm.

Here is a cheaper solution for you instead of going to a machinist. Go get a do-it in line trolling sinker mold. (See links below). Take the mold and drill a hole at the top of the mold into the eyelet and a hole at the bottom into the eyelet. Now you will have a thru hole from top to bottom. Cut what ever wire length you need, put a kink in the wire that will sit in the mold cavity. This will keep the sinker from moving up and down. Fill your mold cavity with lead. Once done you can twist an eyelet at the top of your wire for the main line, and at the tag end make a loop to accept a snap swivel. You should be good to go. It's not complicated, just figure out what size wire you want, as 4 oz is heavy and will bend most stainless steel wire. You may need a .050 or .060 wire. If you need more help just PM me and I will help you out. https://store.do-itmolds.com/In-Line-Trolling-SinkerbrSz-2-3-4_p_670.html https://store.do-itmolds.com/In-Line-Trolling-SinkerbrSz-3-4-5_p_671.html PS: The inline sinkers are the same in shape as your bottom bouncer weights. All you have to do to the in-line sinker is adapt a wireform to go thru the cavity.

I use brass inserts if I'm going to paint them. Before I pour the blade baits, I take the brass blades and lightly sand both side to give the powder paint some bite. After pouring, but before painting, I wipe the blades down with denatured alcohol. Then I paint the heads and body. I use the brush tap method. I get excellent results, where I can multi-color the head and also multi-color the body.

Hi Deric, Welcome to Tackle Underground. I'll try to answer some of your questions, and othesr will have insight on the rest. So here are some of my answers: Painting: I powder paint all of my lead jigs. It is faster and once you bake the jigs in a toaster oven, the finished product is very durable. Lead Prep: There is no need to sand your lead jigs. Once you pour your jig, you can easily smooth out the rough edges with a 1/2 round bastard cut file. The paint will cover the rest and once baked it will look beautiful. Self Etching Primer: I used to use this on lead when I first started powder painting. The product works really well. If you have clean jigs and they are not oxidized, then I believe this step is not necessary. Blades: I buy all my blades with a lacquer finish. You can buy gold, silver plated and brass blades with this finish. I like to buy my blades complete. It's just easier for me to do it that way than to try to plate blades and then clearcoat. Plus you will never get really durable results by plating it your self. I hope this answers some of your questions.

I have some of the earlier ones that they had made and they were fine. I got them about two years ago. There long ones I've not had any problems either. But then again, I bought them about 2 years ago as well. If there is a problem, they usually react fast and fix it.

Oops, I forgot about that mold, haven't used mine yet either.

I have not seen one. Maybe there is a similar style but not Do-It molds profile or style.

You have a PM.

Hey guys, Thanks for all the info.

What type and brand of high temp silicone do you guys use to fix or fill gaps in your Do-It molds? It has to handle many repeated pours of hot lead.Thanks in advance

You can use Mustad 32886 (round bend), 91768 (EWG) or EC versionL3886 (round bend). I don't know if the VMC Wide gap will work as I've never used it. If it is 28 or 30 degree regular hook eye, it should be fine