cadman

Sure, now go out, catch one and post your results. You never know. LOL

Welcome to TU. Smalljaw hit it on the head. The pins I have are very easy to use once you modify them to your specific mold. Pm me for more info.

Oops, sorry didn't see that. Good info.

I am currently at work and will e-mail it out to you later tonight.

So when you said "graphite spray" did you buy "Drop Out" or did you use something else?

If you PM me your e-mail I can e-mail you some tutorials to get you started.

I've had better luck fishing before and after a full moon. I've tried this for three consecutive years and documented my results and that seems to be a better fishing time for me.

I pour 3 oz Ultra-Minnows with my Lee bottom pour and I have no problems. Here are some things I would try. #1. Get rid of the candle wax and get some "Drop Out" it is a 1000 times better and you will thank me later. #2. Make sure your molds are super hot. #3. Crank up your Lee pot to 8 or 9 on the dial. #4. Finally add at least 1/2 of a pot of some soft lead to your mix. Divers lead is very hard. Hope this helps

The mold cavities themselves will have to be polished out. You can do this with a dremel and a small sanding pad. The only problem is that you will not get everything even, across all of the cavities, because you are sanding by hand using hand pressure. If you don't care about it not looking perfect, take your dremel and sand/grind away.

Yes your mold is not hot enough. Also if you pour less than2 oz jigs, you can still get a small ladle and dip from your Hot Pot for those troublesome molds.

I have used JB weld to make a lot of permanent fixes. With that said, if you use JB weld, and you want to use a different size hook later, JB weld may be more difficult to get off or file out. The high temp RTV is easier to work with, and it is also flexible so you can easily put a bigger size hook in one cavity without modifying anything, as the RTV is flexible. You really only want to dam up the spot on the mold halves where the shank below the hook eye protrudes into the cavity. I will try to post a pic later tonight, or I can e-mail it to you if you PM me your e-mail.

I have the same problem with my mold. I filled the hook eye cavity on both side of the mold with high temp RTV sealant. The trim off any excess and high spots on the mold faces with a razor. Once done stick your hook in there, and the hook eye will compress in the mold eyelet. Should solve your problem. Or you can just put some sealant right where the wire from the hook eye meets the mold cavity. I'm sure others will have some suggestions as well.

PM me your e-mail and I will send you my tutorial. This should help you out some.

Small jaw, excellent review. I am glad to know that this glitter lays down flat with the epoxy. I have tried others, and when the epoxy cures the glitter is all rough and bumpy. I will have to try this. Thanks again for the write-up

Jig Man, if you don't want to buy a mold, then you can just buy some raw heads. The biggest problem I found when I started making these, was the hook eye wasn't big enough inside to let a durable split ring move around freely. Also a flat eye hook would be my choice because you would only need one split ring to connect the head to the blade. I'm sure there are many ways to make these including spinnerbait heads using the wire at the nose of the jig head.

Several years ago, I had a customer that wanted me to make a jig that he called pumpkinseed. He wanted black, purple, ylw chartreuse and hot orange as a bass jig color with a matching skirt. So on the jig head I have a ylw chartreuse body, with a orange belly. The jig sides are a custom purple powder I had made, with black top side. After he approved the jig head, I used the same color scheme for the skirt. The skirt has yellow and orange fish scale, muscadine and an old color whiskey purple all from fishingskirts.com. Once I matched them up to the head and then tied them up I really liked the color combo. Sent them out to my customer and it was a winner. I still use it to this day as one of my bass colors.

Jig Man, I use similar sizes as DaBehr 1. Blades, I like the ones with the holes. They are called bubbler holes, supposedly they push bubbles thru as you reel. 2. Blade size is standard unless you go Musky size. Many color options 3. Split ring size #3 4. Duo lock snaps #2 or #3 5. You may also want to get some colored stick on tape that is precut to fit the blades. This will dress up your blades or you can paint the blades as well 5. I get all my stuff from LPO Other than that, I use the Trokar Po Swim Jig mold which makes a 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 oz head. Pour without weedguard hole. Use EL 2706 BP 5/0 or 6/0 hooks. These hooks will give you plenty of room for a split ring to move freely. Below are two pics of the way I make them. Which shows you the components assembled If you need more info PM or e-mail me.

Thanks for the info smalljaw, good to know.

Yep, I will have to agree with smalljaw. All black ,blk/prurple or blk/blue are the best colors to use on a spinnerbait at night. Everything black. You can also spray paint your blades black as well.

Welcome to TU. Based on your thread, you are looking for an exact match to what you have, however you found something close. Depending on how old something is, color may have faded. Sometimes exact may not be possible in color, as it may not be made anymore. Close enough might be good enough, I don't think the fish are that picky. With all that said, post some pics of what you are looking for and tell us what you want, and the TU forum might be able to help you get closer to your goal.

If you are referring to epoxies, I do the concave side first, and lay the blade flat, then I do the convex side after the first side has cured. I powder paint many blades and then clearcoat them, and I have never seen a performance difference. The only thing that happens when you clearcoat blades with epoxy, the blades get heavier. I take many of my blades and watch them spin effortlessly in clear water, with no problems. Also when I slow roll my spinnerbaits, I see the blade start to spin right away without a problem. Below are a couple of blades I powder painted and then clearcoated, they work just fine on the spinnerbait it is attached on. BTW thanks to smalljaw for his wire form locking tutorial for bearing swivels on spinnerbaits.

WTP (Witchtape Products) has a big variety of stick on tape that holds really well to spoons.

You can also use, Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) or Envirotex Light (E-tex). They are both 2 part epoxies that are measured equally. D2T has the hardest finish of the two, but is not as clear as E-tex.

Yep , I just ordered from there as well.

Once you put the foil on and you have the swivel covered, you heat the jig and either swish it through the fluid bed or dip it in a jar. Then I put the jigs on a rack and let them cool as I finish the rest. Once done, take all the foil off and then put them in the oven. The paint will not migrate to the swivel. However if you put on too much paint on the jig, then yes, it will drip down into the swivel. Less paint is more. It's better to swish it through twice with less paint in a fluid bed, than to put on one heavy coat.