cadman

You are correct, I do install my current weedguards upside down, as the fused end in the Kaysure lures weedguards seem to be melted as part of their fusing process, which inevitably flattens the fused end, making it almost impossible to put in. Even by putting them upside down, there are some times where I will have to pull off a strand or two. Do you have any problems keeping the FS weedguards from falling out of the hole in the jig? I assume you are using epoxy or Gel super glue?

Well, do you like them? Any negatives?

I have been buying weedguards from Kaysure Lure for over 15 years. Don't really have an issue with them. I have noticed however that fishing skirts.com has weedguards that are perfectly round and fused on one end. It seems that they would be easier to put in. Here are my questions; What are your thoughts on one versus the other, quality, ease of use, durability, adhesion etc.? Can you buy the fishingskirts.com weedguards from the the manufacutrer direct (if so does anyone know who it is) or do you have to get them from fishingskirts.com Thanks for any input or help.

Doug, I've seen you progress throughout the years. Very nice looking jigs. You should be proud of your accomplishment. Job well done.

Welcome to TU, you will enjoy it here, and you will learn a lot. There are a lot of very talented guys here. Read as much as you can, and if you get stuck or can't find an answer, just ask and you will get many answers and many people who will help you. We've all been there and to this day many of us learn new things all the time. I do have a fluid bed tutorial. If you would like it just PM me your e-mail and I will send it out to you. Do not post your e-mail on any threads or posts.

Welcome to TU. However, Thank You for a 1st post that benefits no-one. I and many, many others here over the years have gone out of our way to help,teach and share ideas so, members can make a better jigs. There is nothing so secret that cannot be shared, unless you have a patent on something. Your jigs look very nice, however many guys here have fantastic looking jigs as well and have helped others when asked. Happy New Year.

I will stick with my bottom pour pots as they are made for speed. However I use a ladle for all of my spinnerbaits.

I have been powder painting as long as Smalljaw and I have never had that happen. I have been doing multi color powder painting for over 8 years (before it was even popular, similar to your process and still have never had that happen. it has to be a paint issue, because I have never seen of what you are referring to. Pics definitely would help.

It is a brown veined powder paint. If you know who made the jig, ask them for the paint manufacturer. If you don't know who made the jig, there area lot of companies that sell veined powder. The most common is a one step process, where you put paint on the jigs and the heat will activate the paint and make it crack. Stay away from two part processes, as they are a P.I.T.A and very expensive.

I found that Do-It brand has the best quality. There aren't many places that sell these in bulk. You can buy these in bulk from DO-It and get a discount.

I had the same experience as 21xdc. I will not use them, I had too many defects. JMO

As far as I know, there is no chart. Too much time and effort to come up with one, for ever model and every hook out there .

Yes, it is correct. Some Do-It molds are made that way. I have several I bought from Do-It. All you have to do is take a pair of needle nose and bend the wire up, like your other spinnerbait. Do this before you paint your spinnerbait head, as this keeps the paint from cracking where the wire joins the head.

Good idea. How hard was the mod? Are you willing to show us a pic of the inside of your mold?

I like it as well. Very organized. I like things that are neat and organized, then you can find what you are looking for. Job well done.

The #3434 mold can accommodate two different types of hooks. Regular straight eye which is Mustad 32786 or a flat eye which is Mustad 32798. This mold goes from 1/8 to 1/2 oz. The #3432 mold will only accept a flat eye which is Mustad 32798. This mold goes from 1/2 - 1 oz.

I just want to buy a standard mold or buy them poured. I can draw anything on my software that I want for a cnc machine ( I do this for some people and my own jig molds) however why do this when what I want is already available.

I need at least a 2d cad file. If not I would have to draw each one all over again as a solid.

If it is a DWG file, than I would have to redraw it and make it into a solid for my software to calculate. Way too much work to start over again and redraw. My software calculates profile of the the part including all voids and then calculates for the density of lead. PM me (1) file to see how much work there is to do. Send me the .DWG part file only. It looks like the part is a solid, unless that is just shading.

What software was that done in? If you have the solid model of each of those shapes send them to me. If it was done in Solidworks send me the Solidworks files of each, if it wasn't done in Solidworks send me a .STEP or .STP file of each. I will then calculate the profiles and see what I come up with.

Mark, Everything is possible. I think it would be impractical and too expensive to take an existing lead part, chuck it on the head stock and then put the tail stock on to keep it center, then to turn it down. Plus the lead is probably too soft and then from the friction, probably would melt and get disfigured, possibly causing bodily harm. Just my thoughts on this.

I just looked it up, that lead actually weighs 11.34 grams/cm cubed in the elements of periodic tables. I used 11 since that is what my cad software computes at.

Here's an example for you. The cad file properties are as follows: *** Bullet Weight in picture is 1" long from top of cone to bottom of collar. ***The inside diameter of the through hole is .040 diameter *** Diameter of the cone body is .266 ***Density of pure lead is 11 grams/ cm cubed Weight of the Bullet weight in cad file 1.632 ounces Now remember that any change in size shape or form will change the outcome of your answer. Note: For all of you math scholars with PHD's, I may be slightly incorrect so don't crucify me here. However I will take all constructive criticism to enhance my knowledge of math. LOL

I use Solidworks which a model and drawings can be made for production or for a machinist.. However for a small amount of pieces, drawings would be expensive, but you would get exactly what you want. Also the volume of the part can be figured out close enough to the profile you want in a lead head by calculating and editing the profile.