cadman

I'll let you know, and then we can discuss the particulars via PM's and e-mail. Thank You for the offer.

I was going to do that to my ultra-minnow mold as well, but never did, as I didn't have a reason to until now. Guess I'll have to go out and get the mold as soon as I hear back from my customer. Thanks.

Leatherhead, Welcome to Tackle Underground. Thanks for the reply. I have been browsing the i-net, and noticed that this mold is really course on the inside. I believe these are sand cast, however I've seen some poured heads, and they look really rough. Are your poured heads smooth or really course?

Does anyone have this mold? If so how is the fit of the components and how is the pouring? From the looks of the inside of the mold halves, the cavities look very rough. I have a customer that is looking for some and am looking for feedback. Thanks in advance.

Derek, the easiest way I found to do this is as follows: Turn on pot and drain all lead into a muffin tin. Once it is drained, unplug unit While it is cooling, take out the plunger and clean that, be careful it will be hot. I use course steel wool to clean plunger. Once the plunger is clean, start cleaning the bowl, again be careful as it is hot. Use steel wool and scrape off all excess. Turn pot over frequently to empty contents. Now clean the concave area where the plunger sits. Check for any sediment. Once you are all done, re-assemble the plunger. Turn on pot and fill with lead. That's the way I do it. Once a year on my Lee IV pot. Hope this helps.

Is it a bottom pour?

Yes, I have one and it is an excellent pot, no leaks. However many people won't fork over $300+ for a pot they will occasionally use. I wish someone could make a leak proof pot for under $100. Imagine how many you would sell if you could solve that problem and make it affordable for everyone.

They will all leak at some point, then it will stop and then it will leak again. Some will leak more than others. I strongly believe that either there is not enough heat at the bottom of the pot to seat the plunger, or there is some garbage in there that prevents the plunger from seating correctly. Lot of it has to do with the type of lead you use. I have used all kinds in the past, and I've come to the conclusion the worst for those pots is wheel weights. There is so much garbage in those weights and the lead is very hard, that I stopped using them. There are some things you can try, flux your lead very heavily, turn the heat up a bit, and use better lead. I flux with bees wax or candle wax, works for me. Also I now buy my lead from Roto-Metals, and don't have nowhere near the problems I've had in the past. There are a lot of things you can try and you will get a lot of advice here. Try some and find what works for you then write it down for next time. Good Luck.

I've never had problems with Do-It screw-locks. Like mentioned above call them and they will make it right. On another note, I buy mine from Shorty's and/or Cap'n hooks. They are less costly there than anywhere else on the web. If you go to Cap'n hooks make sure you get the correct size.

I've used Spike-it blade dip, and I have used all of their colors. The only way it will last longer is if you use epoxy on the blades. Once that is done and the epoxy doesn't get compromised you will be fine.

Are you looking for a source for powder paint or are you looking for application on how to use it. If it were me I would only use a vein that is a one step process. Much easier to use and a lot less costly. Just an FYI, but I am in the process of getting a custom one step green pumpkin/ black vein powder paint made. When it's available I will let you guys know, as this will be just another cool color to have. There are however some things to be worked out. I'll keep you posted

Are you using these "o" rings on jigs that have double collars or the ball collars. The biggest issue I believe with everyone is the ball collar, as there is not enough profile on the collar to hold anything from sliding down.

Thanks for the info. I always thought that, that was rubber and silicone mixed together. Good to know.

I also have a tutorial on how the way I wire tie. Don't know if you have it. If you want it Pm me your e-mail and Iwill send it to you. I also use copper wire, except mine is red.

So my question still is this. Is this considered living rubber? See links http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Rubber-Material/Bulk-Regular-Round-Rubber-1lb-5ft.html

Derek, this is the tool I use when I use thicker skirting material like Starflash or other skirting material that is not tabbed. The Starflash material comes with a rubber collar, the round silicone comes in a strip.If I want to add some color strands to one of the existing skirts which has loose ends this is what I do. Take all of your loose strands at one end, and tape them all together in a point including the new strands. Now put another rubber collar onto the tool, separate the jaws, stick the taped end into and through the jaws, roll off the first rubber collar, now you have a completed skirt. take your new skirt, slide on a jig, wire tie and roll off the existing collar. Done and simple. I have two of the original tools I bought about 15 years ago and they still work to this day. Here is the link. http://www.skirtmaster.com/SkirtMasterKit.htm

Derek when you and the other guys are referring to living rubber, are you referring to the old style of living rubber I remember or are you guys talking about the round silicone type of rubber available at Jann's and Lure Parts on Line? I thought the old style of rubber skirting was long gone due to rubber rot. I would just like some clarification as I see this mentioned on a lot of fishing sites?

What do you mean by bulk? 100 pack or 1000's. 100 pack go to Captain Hook (on line only), 1000's go to Shorty's in Windsor, MO.

I fish to get out in the morning in the peace and quiet. I am a morning person, and love to get out when the world is sleeping and enjoy the serenity of nature. Also fishing relieves any stress in my daily life, as I go out and try to conquer on how to catch all those fish.

You might be right on the 3/4 oz, I don't have that hook showing on my chart. maybe there were other issues. Now I'm curious, as to see why I don't have it listed. Going to see tonight when i get home.

Silicone tabs with the biggest selection, would be fishingskirts.com. Also you can't beat their prices when you buy bulk.

Gary, I am looking at my hook chart, and there is no 4/0 hook that will fit any of those cavities on that mold. The 1/8 and 1/4 oz will take a 1/0, 3/8 and 1/2 oz..............2/0, 3/4 oz..................3/0. With the info I have these will work with a 32786 hook. What cavity are you interested in and what size hook do you want to put into it. I will check when I get home tonight. I do know that the thinner 60 degree hooks will fit more of the cavities.

If you have this mold by Do-It (BDB-5-A) #3228 then you should be using the following hooks. Mustad #32786 and EC L786BP. You mentioned that EC L786 BP does not fit. You will have to give us more info on what does not fit. Pics would help. Maybe you have a hook size that is too big for the cavity. Also supply us with the Do-It mold number.

I started using bees wax and now use candle wax, as the candle wax I get is free. My wife likes Yankee candles and I use the remainder that doesn't burn on the bottom. Like mentioned a little goes a long way. Make sure that once you drop a small chunk in, you light the smoke. Just be careful, as it will flame up. Slowly stir the lead as the fire is burning, and all the crud will come to the top and burn off. Once the flame has died off, you can skim off the crud, and do it again if you like.

Thanks for the mini tutorial Dave. I have a long way to go with my photography.